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1953 dodge B4-HAJ52 QUESTIONS


Ray J.
Go to solution Solved by JKochis82,

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That 51-53 wiper motor is basically a 1949-52 Dodge,DeSoto and Chrysler wiper motor.

The truck wiper motor requires a different mounting bracket and links.

The electric wiper motors on B1/2 trucks same situation but use a 1946-48 DeSoto and Chrysler wiper motor mounted with a truck bracket and truck only linkages.

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You really love Chrysler products. My wife claims the Toyota twin cam powered 1961 Morris Minor 1000. I claim the 1961 Volvo 544 powered by Chevy 4 cylinder and a Supra 5 speed.

The Dodge truck has taken center stage over finishing the cars.

Best

Ray J.

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Clutch and flywheel are out and ring gear removed. Ran a new brake line from side to side on the rear end.

Tomorrow I will clean up the flywheel and attempt to install the new ring gear.

 

How do you remove the throw out bearing from the collar and install a new one ?

Ray J.

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29 minutes ago, Ray J. said:

 

 

How do you remove the throw out bearing from the collar and install a new one ?

Ray J.

I used to clamp the collar in a vise and tap the brg off working side to side with a hammer and punch.  Used the vise to press the new bearing onto the collar.

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Cleaned flywheel surface where ring gear sets and installed new ring gear. Will get it resurfaced to get rid of bad spot where molly the mouse did her business.

Found the rear brake banjo bolts so I installed them with new copper washers.

I have a 1970's Ford F250 drum brake booster and master cylinder that I will install as soon as the flywheel and clutch are reinstalled.

I drilled between two bad teeth on the ring gear and gave it a couple of whacks with a chisel and hammer and it popped open.

I used my MAP gas and made 3 slow revolutions on top and 3 on the bottom of the new ring gear and it went on the flywheel very smoothly.

Ray J.

2024-09-04 nrw ring gear installed.JPG

2024-09-04 old ring gear and how I setup the new ring gear.JPG

2024-09-04 old ring gear drilled and chisled into.JPG

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I will look on the boxes for part numbers or SKU #. Go to Dr. tomorrow which is 90 miles one way so probably Friday to answer.

I bought both reman from Autozone.

Ray J.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I only painted the wiper motor and went to DR. and had company this week.

These are the brake components I am going to use. Hope they do the job.

Has anyone found a replacement clip that holds the inside wiper arm to the wiper motor shaft

Ray J.

 

2024-09-11 brake booster and master cylinder.JPG

2024-09-11 brake booster.JPG

2024-09-11 brake master cylinder.JPG

2024-09-11 wiper motor.JPG

Edited by Ray J.
forgot to ask question
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My Mach I has a clip to hold the linkage onto the arm and they're available.  That doesn't mean they're the same size or will fit your application.  There's no need to limit yourself to Mopar only parts sources when looking for obscure parts.  A measurement of the shaft diameter might help followed by a phone call to a classic Ford parts supplier.

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Thanks Dave. I have looked at some BMW clips but they do not give specs like Summit racing does on some of the clips they sell. Dorman may have something that can work. FleaBay dude wants almost 12 bucks each and I need 4 clips.

Thanks again.

Ray J.

Edited by Ray J.
entered wrong number
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  • 2 weeks later...

Today I finished 2 1/2 days of making, painting and installing the alternator bracket.

Completed some more wiring. Tomorrow is box cut up day before work on the truck.

Could not get to my oil for all the boxes. New fuel tank came.

Ray J.

2024-09-23 new fuel tank.jpg

2024-09-24 stock bracket modified.jpg

2024-09-26 alternator installed.jpg

2024-09-26 tomorrows work.jpg

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Yesterday I cut up boxes. Enough that it filled 4 big boxes. Continued making and installing front brake line and hoses.

After painting a good working wiper motor it will not run.

MY MOTO is "there's always somethin"

Ray J.

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Today was tranny day. I pressure washed it inside and out. Put tranny on an old engine stand and made a steady bar that goes through the u-joint and has a pin in the engine stand at the bottom and a pin just under the u-joint that keeps it pretty level. Filled tranny with 50-50 mix of ATF and acetone. It had some chocolate pudding and one small piece of a chipped tooth. Other wise looks good.

Started moving bed back onto a metal table but I ran out of steam, so that is foe tomorrow. With bed off I will put on tires and roll it outside and wash out the cooling passages. My new water pump does not have the bypass on top like my old one. Wikk it work ok or do I need to modify something ?

Ray J.

2024-09-30 tranny pressure washed 2.JPG

2024-09-30 tranny pressure washed.JPG

2024-09-30 tranny on old engine stand.JPG

2024-09-30 tranny on old engine stand 2.JPG

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I moved the bed forward to where it will set and put the tires on a couple of days ago.

Today I ran the valves, ran a thread chaser in each head bolt hole and cleaned and painted some floor parts. Hope to get the head, oil filter, oil fill tube and plug the dizzy hole and flush the block next week.

Ray J.

2024-10-03 bed and tires back on.JPG

2024-10-03 amount of frame left to be cut off.JPG

2024-10-03 bumper to be installed later.JPG

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I really like those rear tires you went with. How much difference in height to the fronts? I believe you mentioned earlier that you only intended to use (1) wheel on the rear, was that do to clearance?

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Hello, they are 255/70R 22.5 on 22.5 x 7" rims. No faster than it will go does not concern me by mixing bias tires up front with the radials in the rear. Bought all my tires from Priority tire on Ebay. Bias tires came with flaps.

Yes to one wheel. That is why I bought the dually bed so that the tires would not stick out past the bed sides.

I know some people do not like a modern bed on an old truck. It will suit my needs as I sold my F250 to my b-inlaw and will need a pickup to do my hauling next spring.

Ray J.

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Day before yesterday I finally figured out the transmission is a 5 speed, no overdrive. Yesterday I installed the oil pan and cylinder head. Cleaned and painted fan battery box cover.

Ray J.

2024-10-08 tranny gears fogured out 1.JPG

2024-10-09 head back on 1.JPG

2024-10-09 oil pan back on.JPG

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I am getting ready to install the intake/exhaust manifolds and wanted to know if I can install one at a time lose and if I can which one goes on first ?

I plan on cleaning out the water passages tomorrow.

Ray J.

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You can but don’t think you are gaining much, those (4) base bolts need to line up and be stress free. I say that because I believe that contributed to why my original intake was cracked at the carb base. IMO— you can check flatness of block faces better assembling on a bench and use a template to check port spacing if desired.

  Just something to keep in mind, be sure the flange thickness is the same for the middle ones. I changed manifolds and there was abound .050” mismatch that needed addressed. 

Edited by 47 1.5 ton
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Tranny and intake/exhaust are painted.

I took your advice and assembled intake/exhaust. My lovely wife pressure washed the water passages. She is a pressure washing nut. Also helps she is much younger than me.

Water distribution tube and oil filter canister are installed.

Flywheel, clutch and tranny install next week.

Ray J.

 

2024-10-11 intake-exhaust painted.JPG

2024-10-11 tranny painted.JPG

2024-10-12 intake and exhaust bolted together.JPG

2024-10-12 flushing the block 2.JPG

2024-10-12 water tube installed.JPG

2024-10-12 oil filter installed.JPG

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   I’ve been going to reply about the amount of springs in your build and an easy way to pull the pins. But you’ll figure it out. I would enlarge the WDT to fit the bore and the output of the water pump. 

IMG_0421.jpeg

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