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remote starter button


Go to solution Solved by DonaldSmith,

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Posted

Having some electrical gremlins to chase down in my 47 Chrysler and to save some trips back and forth to the starter button I will hook up a remote starter button. To save further time ? would someone here tell me which two post on the front of the starter I need to connect to make it work. Thanks

Posted

… as a side, and If my memory serves me correctly, packard had a starter solenoid with a built in starter button located under the hood. 
 

 

Posted

Get or asssemble a momentary contact button with two wires with alligator clamp ends. 

Looking at the starter soleoid, the upper right post is where you would clamp a wire.  (Thats''s the post nearest the steering column, for us who drive on the right side of the road.) 

The other lead clamps at the Hot post of the battery (The negative post if the car is positive ground, like most of ours.)  

  • Like 1
Posted

I see how the upper right post energizes the electro magnet and then goes to ground I believe through the upper left post which grounds through the generator which in turn goes from a ground to hot when the car is running to cancel out the circuit through the upper right post. Trying to wrap my head around the necessity of grounding through the generator arm post. If its now grounded to the generator will the button still activate the starter?

Posted
34 minutes ago, uncleaud said:

I see how the upper right post energizes the electro magnet and then goes to ground I believe through the upper left post which grounds through the generator which in turn goes from a ground to hot when the car is running to cancel out the circuit through the upper right post. Trying to wrap my head around the necessity of grounding through the generator arm post. If its now grounded to the generator will the button still activate the starter?

 

Try it and see.  :)

  • Solution
Posted (edited)

I think the only reason Ma Mopar grounded the solenoid post to the generator was to prevent the starter from cranking while the engine waas runnning.   

So forget the generator/alternator as a groud.  Ground the post to a good ground on the engine block, like maybe a bolt holding the oil filter on. 

 

(Additional thought:  I had grounded the post to the bolt holding the solenoid to the starter, but I figured that it had surfaces where the ground could be compromised by paint, dirt, etc.   So I am grounding the wire to one of the bolts holding the oil filter on.  I am working on fixing a leak in the oil filter plumbing, so I will have a good opportunity to make sure the surfaces at the bolt will be clean.  (And I believe in start washers, to cut through the crud.) 

Edited by DonaldSmith
additional thought
  • Like 1
Posted
9 hours ago, Bingster said:

I seem to recall that Don Coatney had one that he made up from scratch. Might search.

One what? Ground wire?

Posted

I guess I jumped too far from another post up there.  Don Coatney made a remote starter that had two leads so that when you pressed a button the engine would turn.  I have one that I bought. It works great.

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Posted

Here's a photo of my starter solenoid, with the oil filter removed, because of leaks in the fittings. 

(The plug in the block below the solenoid is where the elbow fitting had been leaking. I've got to loosen and move the starter to replace the fittinng.)

 

The upper left post of the solenoid is grounded at an available bolt, in this case at the oil filter bracket. 

(Nearby, I have a thick ground cable connecting the engine to the body.)

 

(I've got a welch plug below the bolt, to worry about. ) 

 

IMG_1067.JPG.d82df4e7c0b3fb4b5f703472e2bae250.JPG

 

 

Posted

That's the way I have mine hooked up and I'm not getting any response when I push the starter button. I'm getting power to the upper right post when I push the button (test light lights) but no click or any sound. I'm afraid my solenoid has bit the big one. Battery is new and shows full charge. It has me puzzled, everything was working fine. I drove it in on the hoist, did some tinkering work on the trim, nothing to do with the mechanics. Went to drive it out three days later and nothing, dead on the hoist!

 

Thinking my next step is pulling the starter out and either getting it rebuilt or replaced, either way rather expensive.

couple quick questions.

1. how much of a job is removing the starter, looks like some of the clutch mechanism might be tricky.

2. where would I look to getting it rebuilt or getting replaced. I have no problem tackling the job myself if I can find parts.

 

Anything obvious I may of missed?

 

Posted

I'll be pulling my starter out a bit, to get at the oil line fitting.  As i remember from years ago, the starter pulls forward, easy peasy,  Except it hit some Rube Goldberg piping I had for the oil filter, which I have since corrected.  Sorta.  I'm on about the third or fourth iteration of the oil filter piping.  maybe this time it won't leak.   

 

It looks from the photo I posted, that when I pull the starter forward, I'll have to move it out sideways a bit from the engine, to clear a prrotrusion.  But it should clear, since it went in.

 

And at my age, I'll rig up some webbing to support the weight of the starter as I move it out of the way.  For just moving the starter over a bit, I can leave the wiring connected.   As a younger man,I removed the top bolt, got under the car, removed the bottom bolt, and carried the starter out on my chest. 

 

There.  I think I got all tje typos.    

Posted (edited)

No, not all the typos.  Capital "maybe", first paragraph, space between "man," and "I", third paragraph and "the" misspelled, last sentence.  There may be some grammar errors as well but your message is clear and understandable so don't fret the small stuff too much.

 

I wouldn't have commented at all if it wasn't for your last sentence.  Most of us mess up our posts a bit from time to time, me included.  No grammar police needed.

 

I found one of my own after I posted this.  Oops, found another one, and two more!

Edited by Dave72dt
spell check and grammar
Posted

I mis-spelled "tje" on purpose.  You've got to believe me!

 

Back on track.  I'm in the process of (re)moving my starter.  I got the bottom bolt out.  Observations:

The bolt has a 5/8" head.  The cluch linkage limits the arc of the wrench, but will not interfere with moving the starter forward to remove it.   An open end wrench worked, with some flipping.  A socket was tempting, but I could see that removing the bolt would back up the socket against the starter body.  I got the bolt loose emough to remove it by hand.

The engine block protrusions will not interfere with moving the starter forward to remove it. 

   

Posted (edited)

Tell me if I'm wrong. If I short across the bottom two big post on the solenoid with a screw driver I should bypass solenoid completely and starter should engage?

 

Never mind...I see that the bottom post on the left goes to the automatic choke. I just can't get any response from the starter....should't be that tough?

Edited by uncleaud
spelling correct
Posted

If you short across the bottom posts, aside from giant sparks, you might get a snort from the starter.  You would be doing what the solenoid is supposed to do. 

 

Yes, the bottom left post connects to the wire to the choke,  but more to the point, connects to a copper buss bar that carries the current into the starter.  

 

Where to go from here?   Maybe remove the starter and bench-test the solenoid and starter. 

 

I removed my starter yesterday, to get at the oil filter fitting at the block.  Not bad for an octogenarian.  Battery disconnected, car jacked up, left front wheel off (left-handed bolts), starter bottom bolt off.  Starter supported by a rope to a pipe across the fenders.  Top bolt off.  (A little tricky wrench access; open end worked fine.)  Starter pulled out partially.  Not enough.  Second rope.  Starter all the way out, up out of the way. 

 

You'll want to disconnect the wiring at the solenoid before proceeding, and you'll want to lo lower the starter while you are under the car.  

 

(Text proofed, and ceertified 99% typo free.) 

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