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Posted
Just now, Sam Buchanan said:

The aftermarket tank in my car just has a metal tube extending from the tank fitting to the bottom of the tank, no filter or sock. Probably a good idea for those of us with these tanks to drain (flush?) it every year or so to remove any particulate that might accumulate.

I agree, sounds like @jgreg53 has a floater inside the tank. Using the air freed it from the tube for now ..... sooner or later it could end back up in the tube.

Possible it floats around & deteriorates into smaller pieces & gets sucked into the filter .... anybody's guess if problem comes back again.

 

Glad they got it figured out though.

Posted

I tried to drive to the convenience store this morning. It's a half mile away. Going to the store is downhill. She ran good. Coming back uphill was a different story. I reset the float height and she ran ok.

Posted

Now it's hard to start, but it will start. I set the float per the spec. Timing top dead center . Filed the points. I have to push the throttle half way to get it going. And there is a strong gas odor.

Posted (edited)

I like the way my P15 runs with timing set at 8-10* BTDC (strobe at idle, vacuum advance connected). Did you file the points before or after you set timing? Timing needs to be set after gapping points because changing point gap changes timing.

 

Are you referring to cold or hot hard starts?

Edited by Sam Buchanan
Posted

I learned years ago, anytime you mess with points I like to use a business card from my wallet from some salesman.

I just use the card to wipe the oil off the points, close them insert card & pull it through.

Be surprised if you are using a white card how much dirt & oil comes off a new set of points after installed.

 

May not be your issue, but I remember cars that would not start after messing with the points & cleaning them worked. .... Just saying.

 

I would swipe the paper card through 2 or 3 times til it came out clean.

New points from the factory had oil ... feeler gauges had oil or left dirt .... dirt on the points created a problem .... just make sure it is not your problem.

 

Setup correctly and I know you have done much work to do so, they start pretty easy

 

Posted

I'm referring to both hot and cold starts. I'm thinking about hooking the mechanical fuel pump back up and using the electric pump as a primer. The mechanical pump is still attached to the block.

Posted

I did just as I said. I have the electric pump wired to the battery with a fuse and a toggle switch. My mechanical pump seems to be working. I switch on the electric for a few seconds and she starts right up. The mechanical has a leak issue.

  • Like 1
Posted

So the leak is coming from a cracked top half where the out fuel line connects. I took the top half from another pump. Attached it to the bottom half.  The early leak is gone. She will run for about 3 minutes and choke down. If I turn on the electric pump while she's  running the electric pump  will overwhelm the mechanical pump and make it leak.

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