Need to gather my bearings

[steveplym]

Just looked at the engine and # behind the Dist is AS1445. ID# is PJ1414.

Any ideas?

[Young Ed]

Um that number doesn't sound like a date. Not sure what that would mean.

[steveplym]

Yeah, those are the only #'s I could find on this block. The 218 block has a date noted in the year 1946. Will have to look again.

[steveplym]

Unfortunately the car is not here and is at a relatives house and having him tell me what the #'s on the motor are.

Explained in detail what I wanted again and found the #'s to be listed under the A as 1-14-45. That makes more sense.

Would this be a military surplus engine?

[Young Ed]

So you have a replacement engine then. I suppose in 45 they would still have been casting engines some of which would have gone to military vehicles. I think in your case it would be more likely that it was bought up by someone as a factory replacement.

[steveplym]

Well, I ended up pulling the motor out of the p-15 and taking it apart yesterday.

Crankshaft in this engine looks pretty good, but will have it checked and turned.

Tag on the side of the engine states "For Parts Specify Mopar 218". Casting date is 8-14-45.

Heading to machine shop tomorrow. Will keep my fingers crossed.

[Jim Saraceno]

I've been thumbing through the old tech bulletins on the Imperial Club website. Here is one about bearings that might interest you. http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/004/cover.htm

[steveplym]

Very useful and helpful info. Thanks Jim.

[Normspeed]

I'd sure say you got a neat motor there. Hope you plan to keep the tag on there when you rebuild it. Very cool.

[blueskies]

Pete, don't really want to swap out the pistons and rods as they are brand new.

Will need to find another 218 crank to save a few bucks. Seems either way I go I'm stuck in a money pit.

Steve-

The pistons are the same for either engine. All you would need is a set of 230 rods and 230 flywheel to go with a 230 crank. Everything else is the same between the 218 and 230. The blocks are identical, the only difference is a 1/4" longer stroke on the 230.

I paid $150 for a set of used, reconditioned, 230 rods from VPW, but you probably could find them for less.

Pete

[steveplym]

Well the machine shop called and advised me I have a good crank from a 218. They are going to grind it .010 over. I've ordered the bearings and gasket set from kanter.

Pete, if this crank would have been unusable I would have probably checked into the 230 route as I have a friend with a 230 I could probably pick up for a couple hundred bucks. Like you said an easy way to make a few more ponies.

It's a relief this worked out. Plus I've still got a spare engine for parts. Thanks for all the help guys.

[Plymouthy Adams]

why are they grinding it .010 under if it is good..what were the readouts every 60 degree per journal? could it not have been addressed with micro polishing

[steveplym]

Well Tim it is good as in much better than the one I was originally going to have ground. After the rod bearing rolled on the original crank they wanted to turn it .050 over on mains and .060 over on rods.

This crank has apparently not been ground since it was assembled in 1945. It was showing a bit of wear. I should have taken photos of the journals and the teardown, but I was in such a hurry to get the motor out and the garage cleaned up as we will be having thanksgiving dinner there Thursday.

Only place we fit all of the family members. Don't want to miss out on the pumpkin pie.

[Plymouthy Adams]

oooh on the .050 and .060..that be extreme in my book...

[james curl]

Why did they not weld the crank and return to standard size? The shop that welded my thrust bearing surface and returned to its original specifications also has an automatic crankshaft welding machine for cranks such as yours. They will not turn a crank more than -.030 max. If it takes more than .030 then they will weld it up and re-turn it.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Exactly James..other would be just to much metal moved..and I am not sure you would get bearing anyway..

[steveplym]

This machine shop, which is very reputable, advised me that it would be fine going that far over. I had my doubts. Especially after speaking with people on the forum and other mopar owners.

They really did not offer that to me. Wasn't given to me as an option.

Oh well, just pulled the motor out of the plymouth that needed rebuilt, used that crank, and it will get a new motor soon. Didn't have to spend hardly any extra money at all. Just a days worth of knuckle bustin' and cursing pulling out that motor.

[james curl]

I would find a shop that specializes in crankshaft rebuilds and send the turned crank to be built up and brought back to standard size. Some larger cities have a machine shop that specializes in crankshafts and has an automatic crank welding machine. Unless you can find a used crank in good shape that may be your only choice.

[steveplym]

Yes James I'm going to keep this crank to use a a spare if needed in the future.

I knew this crank could be built up to be used again, but it slipped my mind to ask the machine shop, or they did not wish to do so.

If I need another crank in the future I can always get this one repaired.

I hope it is more than 10 years before I have to pull this engine again once it is put back in the car. Last time this was rebuilt in 1996 it was driven for two years before the rod bearing spun. Hope I don't have to go thru that again.

Your experiences worry me a bit, but what else can you do. If this happens again may be sbc time for me.