Mikec4193 Posted March 21, 2023 Report Posted March 21, 2023 Hi Mopar Folks I am getting to the point with my 1939 Plymouth Coupe project that I will be needing another project...I have always loved the Pilothouse trucks since I was a little kid riding around in my dads 1950 truck... I don't enjoy doing restorations at all...life is too short for that stuff unless you have a crew...my last old truck was a 1953 Chevy and I rebuilt it...basically fixed worn out parts and drove it... Hypothetically if I was to find a complete truck that ran and rolled up onto a trailer....but was basically a stock truck and I would like to drive around town more than to shows or parades... This is a really basis basic checklist to make it a driver... 1) Swap out rear end for a Jeep Cherokee 2) Put newer leaf springs from a Dakota or 1990s GM truck 3) Get a Ram Man Disc brake kit 4) Go to Speedway and get a universal under floor master / clutch assembly 5) Rewire it and convert to 12 volt alternator 6) Newer bench seat or buckets 7) Mount retractable safety belts ? All new rubbers and glass too 9) Light truck radial tires Still not sure about the old school steering box and solid steering column yet.... My goal is something to take to get 2x4's and stuff like that...maybe even put a trailer hitch on it so I can tow stuff with it... Does this seem like the high points to get a running old truck more user friendly and still keep it an old truck?? Thanks for any insight MikeC Quote
B1B Keven Posted March 21, 2023 Report Posted March 21, 2023 Getting it running good, drive it for a while and then figure out if/what you need to change. I drove mine around Northern California and Southern Oregon for years in stock form. Maybe the disc brake conversion. These trucks were not designed to run down the road at 65-70 mph. If you're looking for a rig like that, buy something newer. Just my 2 cents worth from 40 years of ownership. Quote
Los_Control Posted March 21, 2023 Report Posted March 21, 2023 1 hour ago, Mikec4193 said: My goal is something to take to get 2x4's and stuff like that...maybe even put a trailer hitch on it so I can tow stuff with it... Does this seem like the high points to get a running old truck more user friendly and still keep it an old truck?? It is very realistic, depending how high your standards are. The same old rules apply, buy the best truck you can afford to start with. Your "want list" looks fine .... not sure why you want to replace the leaf springs though. You might be better off to just disassemble, clean, grease & replace bushings on the existing. I expect I will replace my rear end at some point. As long as it works as it should .... I will be fine with it with around town driving. New drums are $400 each. I will rear end swap first .... All my drums/brakes were replaced before it was parked though. I chose to go rustyhope on disk brakes on a old project I never finished. Moved out of state. Gave the truck away for free so I kept the new parts for it. Now with my current project, I inspected my front end. Kingpins, tie rods, brakes & drums are all are in good-excellent condition. The steering box has no slop, is full of oil & no leaks. I cleaned, painted & greased everything .... had to replace several zirk fittings as old were plugged. I replaced all the lines, wheel cylinders. Tried to fix the master cylinder & failed. Replaced it with a 1991 Toyota Camry unit .... easy swap. New fuel lines & fuel tank. I'm only replacing what is worn out & needed. When it is a driver, I will pick & choose what to change or modify next. Toyota master cylinder. 12 volt GM alternator. I bought a $50, 12 circuit wiring harness .... still on the fence about using it though. Every switch, cable, gauges, door latches, window tracks needs attention .... window rubber needs replaced. I need a seat, thinking I will browse the wrecking yards .... many newer vehicles come with seat belts built into the seat. I have newer steel wheels 1960's-70's, 15"x5" with 235 75R 15 tires. The bed wood needs replaced .... I'm thinking 3/4" treated plywood painted. West Texas sun, it will sit outside often .... I cant keep nice wood here. While the treated plywood is available local in my small town, used for wheel chair ramps holds up well with no sealer at all. I am taking everything apart & painting it .... my choice. Am using Rustoleum rusty metal primer & single stage enamel from Tractor supply. This is my first project, my standards are low. I'm leaving some dents for character, removing some according to my skill level. My end goal is a truck in good working condition for daily driver use around town .... wont be pretty, wont bother me if I drive through a mud puddle or I get a scratch on it at the lumber yard. A beater with a heater. Still a big project though. I have been disabled unable to work since I was 48 years old .... 60 years old now. I bought the truck in 2018, been calling it therapy with lifting, bending twisting .... thinking. Took a year off to teach myself how to weld. Then several months to work on the wife car. Life gets in the way. My truck sat in a field for many years after being parked though .... Depends on what you buy. The better truck you start with the less work you need to do. Quote
rockingjd Posted March 21, 2023 Report Posted March 21, 2023 I've done some of the work on your list to my truck. 1) Swap out rear end for a Jeep Cherokee I used '02 Grand Cherokee. 3.55 gears and disk brakes. 2) Put newer leaf springs from a Dakota or 1990s GM truck No issues for me with stock springs. 3) Get a Ram Man Disc brake kit I used Scarebird. I understand they are now closed 4) Go to Speedway and get a universal under floor master / clutch assembly Check out a Toyota master. 5) Rewire it and convert to 12 volt alternator I used a Powermaster Gen/Alt. Not cheep but I like the look better. 6) Newer bench seat or buckets In my future. 7) Mount retractable safety belts Yes. ? All new rubbers and glass too If required 9) Light truck radial tires One of the first things I did. I also switched out the column shift 3 speed and installed a T5 5 speed. When I had engine troubles I found and built up a 265" engine. Rebuilt the stock steering. Steering box, all tie rod ends and king pins. The truck appears original and drives at highway speed just fine. Stops with no issues. It does ride a little rough. (according to my wife) maybe a more modern seat would help. I'm also not happy with the parking brake but am working on fixing that this winter. Quote
Mikec4193 Posted March 22, 2023 Author Report Posted March 22, 2023 Hey Los_Control... So I had a 1953 Chevy truck and it had stock springs in the front...and it rode like a tank...on the rear I put 1990s Chevy 1500 spring with hangers...all stuff I could brand new from STS Leaf Springs...just made sense I guess at the time... I try to get projects in and out of my garage as quickly as I can...If I work on something for more than 2 years I loose interest in them...that is why I try to keep my projects as put together as possible...taking a cab off is never a good thing for me... I thought of another piece of the puzzle I forgot...an aftermarket fuel tank from a place like this...https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=226/category_id=68/mode=prod/prd226.htm Of course all new lights front and back too... We will see if I can find one worth trying to save that I afford to rebuild... Thanks for all the insight... MikeC Quote
Los_Control Posted March 22, 2023 Report Posted March 22, 2023 Actually you would want this tank .... From Tanks .... https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=349/category_id=68/mode=prod/prd349.htm Is the tank I am using, they claim it fits 48-53 trucks with minor mods .... I have a thread here showing the mods or options needed. The front bolts in place and it lines up with the filler neck, just the rear mount needs modification .... Here is the challenge. Not difficult to work out .... 48-53 they moved the rear cross member. When I bought my tank it was $250 .... now they are $315. There are other dealers that claim a direct bolt in fit for $800 ..... I have a thread on it here ... called hound dog hauler. 1 hour ago, Mikec4193 said: We will see if I can find one worth trying to save that I afford to rebuild... I gave this one away for free, B1C 3/4 ton factory flatbed, engine would run .... Just not worth trailer it 1200 miles to Texas. This truck needed everything mechanically. Then I paid $1800 for my hound dog hauler, $200 to have it delivered, another $100 for a tip so the delivery crew could get a decent lunch on me. So $2100 into my current project, 5 years ago. Probably too much, but it is exactly what I wanted. 1/2 ton with the low side bed. Body sucks but the exceptionally good running gear was a surprise and saves lots of money. ...... Painting just sucks. You too can easily over pay for a vehicle. .... When you see exactly what you want ... A few $$$ one way or the other does not matter. Last week I saw a crack dealer offering a stripped out cab for $1200. Fun & cool trucks, they should be driven or restored & looked at. Quote
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