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Posted (edited)

2B7CC331-C454-49DF-91EC-F830FEF98F7A.jpeg.d5d6198ab1a2c3986b1b6e0e0c3f8fd0.jpeg8EB5EEF3-AFE8-4492-B593-EE02C3A4D9A0.jpeg.52383549225f5ad6024a6c7a6e46c447.jpegWe’re about to start a break restoration of 2 Dodge 47 steakbeds. A 2 ton and a 1.5 ton.

 

Working through the original mechanical user guide is helpful but we’re looking for more direction. Advice on required specialty tools and any tips on what to look out for.

 

1. Master cylinder leaks = will find new gasket.

 

2. break lines are in tact and holding fluid but should be replaced.

 

3. No pressure at all when pushing down on break peddle.

 

4. Will pull all 6 wheels (duel on rear) to start them see if bleeder valves can be carefully loosened).

 

Opening question: What is most likely the case why we’re not feeling any back peddle pressure when pushing down on break? 
 

**Have yet to inspect drums and pads = likely need full cleaning/restoring.

Edited by Built in America
Posted

I'm not familiar with the brakes on these big boys. Many here are though.

8 hours ago, Built in America said:

1. Master cylinder leaks = will find new gasket.

If the maser cylinder is leaking, probably needs rebuilt. Possible you can use a rebuild kit & hone the cylinder out .... possible you may need to send it in and have a sleeve installed.

There is a good chance the leaking master is also why you have no pressure. ..... If fluid can leak out, air can get in.

Same with the wheel cylinders.

 

8 hours ago, Built in America said:

2. break lines are in tact and holding fluid but should be replaced.

nicop is really easy to work with .... is very reasonable on price ... made from nickle & copper it is rust resistant. ....Is nationally certified for brakes, fuel, transmission lines.

 

8 hours ago, Built in America said:

4. Will pull all 6 wheels (duel on rear) to start them see if bleeder valves can be carefully loosened).

I would start with pulling the drums & inspect every thing.  You know you want to repack the front wheel bearings  :)

You could try to bleed the brakes first. If wheel cylinder's are leaking will just waste fluid and cause a mess drenching the brake pads.

 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 1/30/2023 at 6:23 AM, Los_Control said:

I'm not familiar with the brakes on these big boys. Many here are though.

If the maser cylinder is leaking, probably needs rebuilt. Possible you can use a rebuild kit & hone the cylinder out .... possible you may need to send it in and have a sleeve installed.

There is a good chance the leaking master is also why you have no pressure. ..... If fluid can leak out, air can get in.

Same with the wheel cylinders.

 

nicop is really easy to work with .... is very reasonable on price ... made from nickle & copper it is rust resistant. ....Is nationally certified for brakes, fuel, transmission lines.

 

I would start with pulling the drums & inspect every thing.  You know you want to repack the front wheel bearings  :)

You could try to bleed the brakes first. If wheel cylinder's are leaking will just waste fluid and cause a mess drenching the brake pads.

 

Hi Los Control.

 

Man I can wrench for hours on end but can’t correctly send a post reply for the life of me. Hahah. I replied previously but not sure where it went.

 

Thank you for the directions.  We pulled the 6 wheels, realized 2 drums are seized up when knocking on them with a hammer, and will pull them and inspected calipers, pads, etc tomorrow.

 

Will ask if DC Classics or another source is most ideal to pick up a whole kit (lines, shoes, pads, calipers, etc.  We’ll keep the original parts in our treasure chest (unless we can keep them on the green 2 ton).

 

I’ll be sure we get more pics tomorrow to post as we open things up. Getting the beastly wheels off was a chore.  The breaker did the trick on the lugs but we still can’t get all of the the rear dually studs off so that the inside wheel can be pulled. Ha. 

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Posted

Good luck with the studs, I assume you have the correct budd wheel socket for them.

Dcm may have what you need, I do not know.

 

https://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/online-parts-catalog

VPW will have most parts you need for your truck, you may want to contact them after you get your hubs off. Figure out what shoes & wheel cylinders you have.

I'm sure they will have the rubber flex lines .... I think you may need to make your own hard lines .... I suspect there is too many possible combinations to have a pre-made set for sale.

 

 

 Brake & Equipment in Minneapolis https://brakeandequipment.com/

Another member sent in a master cylinder to be sleeved. Was a very reasonable price and a quick turn around .... just saying you have options.

They also reline shoes ..... you can send your complete brakes to them to be refurbished.

While they advertise custom made lines, would be a pita to ship them without getting bent.

 

Possible you get your drums off, find out your existing brakes are not that bad.

 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 2/6/2023 at 7:18 AM, Los_Control said:

Good luck with the studs, I assume you have the correct budd wheel socket for them.

Dcm may have what you need, I do not know.

 

https://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/online-parts-catalog

VPW will have most parts you need for your truck, you may want to contact them after you get your hubs off. Figure out what shoes & wheel cylinders you have.

I'm sure they will have the rubber flex lines .... I think you may need to make your own hard lines .... I suspect there is too many possible combinations to have a pre-made set for sale.

 

 

 Brake & Equipment in Minneapolis https://brakeandequipment.com/

Another member sent in a master cylinder to be sleeved. Was a very reasonable price and a quick turn around .... just saying you have options.

They also reline shoes ..... you can send your complete brakes to them to be refurbished.

While they advertise custom made lines, would be a pita to ship them without getting bent.

 

Possible you get your drums off, find out your existing brakes are not that bad.

 

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Great resources! Thank you!

 

The pics are after we cleaned off 1/4” of clay and grease + hit the parts with a wire disc.   We’ll clean further and powder coat what we can. It’s beautiful how these parts were designed and manufactured like a tank.
 

Brake liners are worn down quite a bit (this beast hauled citrus crates for 20 years - 5,000-6,000 lbs from what the grandson of the farmer informed us).  We want to keep the current shoes but reline them = having a hard time finding the right brake liners (Grizzy isn’t around I don’t believe anymore) for a 2 ton (plenty of 1/4, 1/2, 1, and 1.5 ton liners).

 

Wheel cylinders we’re hoping to keep or restore since they look great and show no signs of leaking. We’ll see.

 

Flex hoses for sure we’ll replace even though the current lines look ok. We’ll test the current brake lines once we get all wheel off and clean our the bleeders on each. They’re in great condition but will see what we push out of them and how they hold pressure.

 

Our goal is to keep/restore as. Icy as we can and will keep the rest in our “treasure chest” or offer to someone that could use them on their Dodge.

 

Yes we orders a new stud remover kit with reverse threads. Praying it works.  We’ll put a torch to the studs as well to assist.

 

Gratefully,

jason

AutoOwners.org

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  • 2 months later...
Posted

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Posted

Brake rebuild is complete, other than troubleshooting through what may or may not be the Hydro vac brake booster.

 

we’ll have to put together a video of the bearings that were packed, thankfully studs were in fantastic condition, and most components were able to be cleaned restored and reused.

 

Drums are in fantastic shape, shoes are built like tanks, was able to find new brake liners, and Master cylinder needed minor boring.  
 

2 months straight worth of cleaning, wire brushing, degreasing, and restoring all components.  Only about 16 hours of reinstallation.

 

*** Will place a new post to inquire about how to best test to see if the Hydrovac brake booster is operating properly, or needs a rebuild before we pull it out or replace it - thought we had a successful test initially but brakes work at about a 75% stopping rate = comes to a rolling stop but not a proper immediate stop when necessary.

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  • Like 1
Posted
19 hours ago, sidevalvepete said:

Good work on a great truck! So good to see those beasts still on the road.

Many thanks!

 

Still a few details to fine tune but it’s rolling all 2 tones down the road getting heads to turn from all those Teslas and hybrids humming around. Haha.

 

We’ll keep you posted as we get the 47 1.5 tone ready in the Fall.

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  • 2 years later...
Posted

hi   we have the same 2 tonne Dodge truck and we are struggling to find the rear flexible hose.  can you help point us in the right direction.  thanks

 

Posted

Hi. Could you tell me where you got the rear flexible brake line.  Im restoring the same truck and struggling to find one.  

 

Thanks. 

Posted

   The poster hasn’t been on the forum for almost two years. You would get a response on the Mopar truck forum. Measure your tubing and use reinforced rubber line. I think it’s 1/2”, and I saw 3’ of reinforced hose at Amazon for $15. Add a picture of your truck project to your repost. A proper introduction to your project will get the best results. Welcome to the forum.  Rick D.

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