Electric fuel pump advice

[Nigel Bailey]

Hi all, I'm looking for advice on a suitable 12V electric fuel pump that will replace the mechanical pump on my near standard 218 (25" block). It has a Langdon's HEI distributor and is 12V/neg earth, but everything else is pretty much standard. Pump will be mounted near fuel tank; my understanding is that it should be in the vicinity of 4-7 psi, but I'm not sure of the suggested flow rate? Pump will be sourced here in Australia for my 1948 D25 Dodge, so any recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks!

[Sam Buchanan]

I had a 12v Carter rotary pump on the kit car and presently run the 6v version of this pump on the P15. Both pumps have been flawless for the carbed engines with no regulator needed.

 

My RV-6 airplane has a Facet diaphragm boost pump that has been in service for 23 years. I also had the same pump on a Chevy S-10 pickup after an engine swap. I think the Carter or Facet would work fine for you.

 

Below is the Carter in the Plymouth mounted just forward of the fuel tank.

 

[Booger]

9 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said:

I had a 12v Carter rotary pump on the kit car and presently run the 6v version of this pump on the P15. Both pumps have been flawless for the carbed engines with no regulator needed.

 

My RV-6 airplane has a Facet diaphragm boost pump that has been in service for 23 years. I also had the same pump on a Chevy S-10 pickup after an engine swap. I think the Carter or Facet would work fine for you.

 

Below is the Carter in the Plymouth mounted just forward of the fuel tank.

 

I like it! Used as a boost to mechanical pump? how did you wire it?

[Nigel Bailey]

10 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said:

I had a 12v Carter rotary pump on the kit car and presently run the 6v version of this pump on the P15. Both pumps have been flawless for the carbed engines with no regulator needed.

 

My RV-6 airplane has a Facet diaphragm boost pump that has been in service for 23 years. I also had the same pump on a Chevy S-10 pickup after an engine swap. I think the Carter or Facet would work fine for you.

 

Below is the Carter in the Plymouth mounted just forward of the fuel tank.

 

Thanks for the help Sam! I now believe the psi should be more like 2-5 psi; this has given me something to go on. Cheers,

                                                                                                                                                                                                       Nigel

[Booger]

1 hour ago, Booger said:

I like it! Used as a boost to mechanical pump? how did you wire it?

ok I see the ground, find the hot feed from ignition? Looks as though the filter is downstream from pump

Edited January 24, 2023 by Booger

[Oldguy48]

I would suggest not using one of the inexpensive "Mr. Gasket" pulse type fuel pumps.  I installed one on my car, and it failed after a few months.  I replaced it with an Edelbrock rotary pump unit, and have no problems.  I'm not certain what pressure the P15 carburetor likes, but I am not using a regulator, and the pump is feeding an Edelbrock 1406 carburetor (On a SBC).  Seems to work just fine!

 

I would also suggest wiring the pump through a Ford inertia switch, that will shut off the pump in the event of a collision.  They are easy to find in Ford Explorers, and Rangers at your local "Pick & Pull".

[Bryan G]

I've installed those cheap "pulse type" pumps in several cars, mostly no-name units bought new off eBay. I did wear one out at about 5 years. All of those were for temporary use (back-up/priming/vapor lock days) but if I were looking for something in lieu of mechanical I'd go for something better. If you're running points, I'd say run it to the accessory side of your ignition switch so you can use it for priming without worrying about burning out them out. You could add a switch under the dash to turn it off...a good theft preventer, as well. If you're running an ignition that can be left in the run position, you could just wire it to that position. 

[Sam Buchanan]

The Facet brand pumps (as opposed to cheap knockoffs) are designed for years of continuous use. They are the only pump for some British cars (ok....maybe that isn't a ringing endorsement ? ) But my experience with them has been good. They are a little noisy but some vibration isolation helps.

 

The Carter pump in the Plymouth is the only pump, the mechanical pump is now in the extra parts box. The filter is between the tank and pump to prevent trash from fouling the pump. The pump is wired through an inertia switch on the firewall. This is a Ford part that is readily available.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Ford-5L2Z-9341-5L2z9341a-Inertia-Safety/dp/B000NTI03C/ref=sr_1_3?crid=26DA9E3ADD5HJ&keywords=inertia+switch&qid=1674534925&sprefix=inertia+switch%2Caps%2C103&sr=8-3

 

 

[Nigel Bailey]

Thanks Sam-yep, the recommendations from over here in Oz have also been the Facet 'Cube' pumps, either model 40104 or 40105, so it looks like I have a way forward now! By the look of that engine bay pic, you've got a dual master cylinder conversion (extended pushrod through the old one to a Wilwood?) with external reservoirs and a modern spin on oil filter.  Nice!

[Racer-X-]

Whatever pump you go with, be sure when you wire it that you include a fuel pump relay or switch that cuts the pump off when the engine stops rotating.  Your life may depend on it.  I had a friend who had a street "beater" car that had been modified where the fuel pump ran whenever the key was on.  He got into a moderate collision in that car and spent almost a year in the hospital with severe burns because the fuel pump kept running after the fuel line broke and was spraying fuel on his exhaust pipes.   Other than the burns, he suffered a broken leg and a mild concussion from the impact.

 

That's how I wire a 5 pin relay for a fuel pump.  The purple wire provides power to the pump when the starter is actually cranking. This is for priming purposes to get the thing running.  The gray (or pink) wire barely shows, but is on with the key in the "run" position to power the relay coil, and the oil pressure switch provides ground to the coil when there is oil pressure.  When the engine stops, the oil pressure drops away and the pump stops running.

[Tired iron]

46 minutes ago, Racer-X- said:

Whatever pump you go with, be sure when you wire it that you include a fuel pump relay or switch that cuts the pump off when the engine stops rotating.  Your life may depend on it.  I had a friend who had a street "beater" car that had been modified where the fuel pump ran whenever the key was on.  He got into a moderate collision in that car and spent almost a year in the hospital with severe burns because the fuel pump kept running after the fuel line broke and was spraying fuel on his exhaust pipes.   Other than the burns, he suffered a broken leg and a mild concussion from the impact.

 

That's how I wire a 5 pin relay for a fuel pump.  The purple wire provides power to the pump when the starter is actually cranking. This is for priming purposes to get the thing running.  The gray (or pink) wire barely shows, but is on with the key in the "run" position to power the relay coil, and the oil pressure switch provides ground to the coil when there is oil pressure.  When the engine stops, the oil pressure drops away and the pump stops running.

This is a good way to do it, and I add one more thng: a momentary switch so that, in the spring when the carb bowl might be empty, I can prime the carb before cranking. This can be especially helpful for my big trucks that have long plumbing rund]s from the fuel tank way out and up to the carb.