Motor mount/insulator questions for a 1947 Dodge D25C

[RonJ]

Thanks for bolt photo.  It a great reference for forum users and will be handy if I pursue reversing the balancer.

Today I tried to move the engine transmission forward to see if centering the rear mount bolts would correct the clearance issue but it proved to be quite difficult.  Likely because of the shifter linkages, exhaust system etc.

Before I hurt anything, as an alternative and to confirm the front support may have flexed or is leaning backward I set up a dial indicator magnet mount on the rad support crossmember to use as a reference.  Not ideal I know but it would at least give me a rough idea of support plate lean.  Sure enough there was about a 4 degree lean to the rear as well as a twist from the left to the right side.  I removed the lower bolts holding the support and nothing seemed “sprung” or under tension.  With the weight of the engine on it I was surprised at how flexible this support is considering it carries the weight of the engine as well as handles the various twisting torques of acceleration and deceleration.  Considering that the rear mounts are not fastened and the engine has worked it’s way backward I pried the bottom of the plate towards the rear of the car with no real force to remove the lean.  Sure enough the balancer pulley edge (belt edge) exposed itself to the 1/4” clearance mentioned above.

So the next step is to order some front and rear insulators (taking a chance on the stiffness), wait the long time for delivery through Canadian customs, install them and realign everything.

 

Meanwhile I’ll start a new topic with a couple of other questions.

 

 

 

Edited December 23, 2022 by RonJ

[Dodgeb4ya]

Done that many times....see easy!?

[RonJ]

It’s going to be fun readjusting things once the engine is back where it should be.

 

I can only imagine what the previous owner thought when a mechanic told him to stop the belt rubbing we need to lift the engine, replace 3 mounts, straighten the support plate, replace the belt, undo the 12V conversion and redo it correctly all at $100 an hour.

Then he found a friend of a friend who had a buddy that installed a narrower belt for free.

[chris 48 P15]

RonJ

when you replace motor mounts there may need to be some readjusting of shift/tranny linkages

i replaced motor mounts there is a difference the new ones are stiffer but no problem

there are some threads to this

[RonJ]

Thanks for the tip.   The adjusting process will be a whole new ball game.
Yes I’ve been studying the many threads on this issue of stiffness.  My choices are few and there is no information on any of the supplier sites on stiffness so it’s a gamble.  There are no local suppliers where I can actually see and feel one.

Based on a conversation with the support desk I have ordered from AB the following mounts.

Front L-338. Rear Upper L-348. Rear Lower L-349

At worst if they are too stiff they will still provide me with good alignment references.  I won’t know for a while because things get delayed at Canada Customs due to volume of parcels, staffing, Covid etc, so my updates to this thread will be delayed accordingly.

 

[RonJ]

Thought I’d close this thread out with success photos.

The mounts arrived quicker than I expected.  They seemed soft enough with the fingernail test.

I removed the floor board and parking brake assembly to provide clearance to jack up the rear of the transmission.

The old ones came out and new ones slipped in.

They squished nicely and the engine sat forward about 3/8 to 1/2”.

Used the engine crane to lift the front of the engine just enough to slip the support plate out.  Replaced the front mount and lowered the engine.

The issue of the partially obscured lower pulley has been solved.

There is now a bit more than 1/4” clearance between where the belt will track and the support plate.

 

 

[andyd]

Success.........lol...........its always nice when we have a win..........andyd

[Dodgeb4ya]

Good going!

Sucess is sweet....?