Young Ed Posted October 25, 2022 Report Posted October 25, 2022 Been a lot of talk of these lately but I don't recall ever seeing this particular question before. My 48 Plymouth coupe with swapped in 52 overdrive. Wired completely stock for the overdrive but the kickdown is inside the car vs on the throttle linkage. Car does have a 3.73 rear gear. Driving the car to storage last weekend at first the OD didn't want to engage. Couple tries and it started working. Chalking that up to corrosion likely at the under hood fuse holder. On a rural twisty highway along the trip the car cut off a couple times when slowing down for a slower corner. Should I be downshifting ahead of time? Could it be the car stalled because I ended up too slow and the OD kicked out and then I wasnt carrying enough speed? Quote
greg g Posted October 25, 2022 Report Posted October 25, 2022 Freewheeling working as it should? On mine, downshifting under 30 is moot. However if slowing for a light downshifting into second to accelerating if the light turns green before a full stop, rhere is a little lag while engine speed comes up to match drive shaft speed. Is your car stalling? Quote
Young Ed Posted October 25, 2022 Author Report Posted October 25, 2022 Yes it stalled a couple times Quote
greg g Posted October 25, 2022 Report Posted October 25, 2022 Is the switch sticking, cutting of power to the coil for longer than spec? Quote
Roadtractor Posted October 25, 2022 Report Posted October 25, 2022 2 hours ago, greg g said: Is the switch sticking, cutting of power to the coil for longer than spec? That was going to be my suggestion, all of mine are set up conventionally and have the 4 contact kickdown switch. When they stick they cause it to not go into overdrive and then when I stomp on it the engine dies/sputters. A couple drops of wd40 and it's good to go for awhile. I drive mine as commuter cars so it happens to each a couple times every season. Quote
Young Ed Posted October 25, 2022 Author Report Posted October 25, 2022 18 minutes ago, Roadtractor said: That was going to be my suggestion, all of mine are set up conventionally and have the 4 contact kickdown switch. When they stick they cause it to not go into overdrive and then when I stomp on it the engine dies/sputters. A couple drops of wd40 and it's good to go for awhile. I drive mine as commuter cars so it happens to each a couple times every season. Mine is wired conventionally but the switch is removed from the throttle linkage. What I'm getting at is the switch wasn't touched either at beginning when the OD wasn't engaging or when the engine stalled out. Could it be that I drug the RPM down too much and just made it cut out? Shouldn't the OD have disengaged itself due to lack of speed? Quote
Roadtractor Posted October 25, 2022 Report Posted October 25, 2022 I wouldn't think it'd just cut out, the governor should dropped it out of od if you slowed down below ~25~28mph. Plus with your kickdown switch being in a clean environment I wouldn't be expecting it to be gumming up. I presume it dropped out at lower speeds? The gov gives a ground source to the relay through the relaxed position of the kickdown switch. If the contacts are dirty or the actuator is gummed up it can cause the fail to engage or short out the distributor. I'd start by checking wiring once you pull it out next spring. My '40 is my od test drive car and I wired in a toggle switch as a "governor override" one side of the switch is wired to ground and the other to the governor terminal on the lockout switch on the transmission, with the ignition and the cable pushed in I can toggle that switch and verify that all the electrical is good and working including the kickdown. Quote
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