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Roadtractor

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Everything posted by Roadtractor

  1. Are you wanting the stamped 6 blade or the 6 blade with rivets? A yard about an hr away has/had several of each. I bought 3 for $100 a couple years ago. I'm kicking around heading back to look for parts for some other cars.
  2. I wouldn't think it'd just cut out, the governor should dropped it out of od if you slowed down below ~25~28mph. Plus with your kickdown switch being in a clean environment I wouldn't be expecting it to be gumming up. I presume it dropped out at lower speeds? The gov gives a ground source to the relay through the relaxed position of the kickdown switch. If the contacts are dirty or the actuator is gummed up it can cause the fail to engage or short out the distributor. I'd start by checking wiring once you pull it out next spring. My '40 is my od test drive car and I wired in a toggle switch as a "governor override" one side of the switch is wired to ground and the other to the governor terminal on the lockout switch on the transmission, with the ignition and the cable pushed in I can toggle that switch and verify that all the electrical is good and working including the kickdown.
  3. That was going to be my suggestion, all of mine are set up conventionally and have the 4 contact kickdown switch. When they stick they cause it to not go into overdrive and then when I stomp on it the engine dies/sputters. A couple drops of wd40 and it's good to go for awhile. I drive mine as commuter cars so it happens to each a couple times every season.
  4. Pretty cool! That is the unusual 1940+ case with a R-7 overdrive. It should bolt in to any 1940-55 standard wheelbase Plymouth. Also, it has the later style shifter arm on it so it has probably already been in a 1946+ car.
  5. The '40 chrysler trans might fit, the R-7s had at least two? different transmission cases from what ive seen. The earlier ones had the transmission "tower" bolt to the bellhousing, around/during 1940 they switched to the side shift transmission case design and the tower no longer bolted to the bell. If it's the later trans case design then it should bolt into your 50. The R-7 is a little more difficult to find parts for but Studebaker used them as well which opens up the availability a tiny bit for od parts. They're a good unit and if the price is right I'd snap it up. If you were closer to Iowa I'd consider trading a R-10 for it as I don't have a R-7 side shift case in my collection yet.
  6. They were built to drive! I put 1,800 miles on my '40 in two days and then did it again on the return trip. The best two reversible upgrades you can do are front disc brakes and an overdrive transmission.
  7. There is the possibility of problems as with anything, I've logged close to 90k trouble free miles on mine that's configured as "mother Mopar" intended (plus a governor override toggle switch). But I also have a stack of spares and that knowledge probably convinces the old girl to keep working as intended.
  8. Where are you located? I search nationwide for deals on Mopar overdrives when I'm bored.
  9. Sounds about right, I don't remember the teeth counts but the '40 transmissions I've torn apart had different 2nd gear teeth counts then every other non 1940 trans I've been in.
  10. I'm not sure what car Jacqueline is, the tranny/overdrive will bolt in place of a standard 3 speed transmission in a standard wheelbase car. The shorter wheelbase cars, like the concord got a 3 speed transmission "without" the tailshaft. You'll have to shorten the driveshaft to "bolt in" a overdrive transmission, and that's assuming there's not a crossmember interference issue.
  11. I was going to swing by the guys place in a couple weeks, actually has four of them and might try lowball him on the lot.This one popped up in SC, guy is/was asking $150, smoking deal but too far away to make it worth a designated road trip after.
  12. $700 is a pretty good deal for the od and electrical components! I wouldn't think twice about picking up another one for that if I had something to put it in.
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