Replacing the ‘36 door glass

[Rodney_Hamon]

2 days ago UPS delivered my drivers side door glass ordered from DCM which was cheaper than a glass co. I called in town. After wrestling it outta the door I couldn’t remove the broken glass from the track. I applied liquid wrench to the track hoping it would loosen the rust etc. I also tried my best scoping online tricks and saw a couple utube shorts. The question I have is what have you guys done to install the glass back into the channel?   I saw mentioned sealing/setting tape or putty. Is that what “Dum Dum” was ?  A putty used back in the 30’s ?  Could ordinary window glazing compound be used ?  Napa has a glass butyl tape I saw online. Anyone use that ?   I also considered removing the regulator assembly to clean up but my first attempt failed. How the h...does that come out! That ‘37 dodge truck shop manual is helpful though. Glad I bought it.  A rubber stop at the bottom is almost gone and that screw is rusted in so I soaked that in liquid wrench and PB blaster as well. I don’t want to snap that off for sure. Any clever ideas for a new stop ?   I liked the “blue” handwritten word on the door and “LA”.   Think the doors were made in LA ?    

[ggdad1951]

I've gently heated up the glass/channel area with a propane torch and got it to loosen up that way.  My 51 I had to have the glass reset with a modern eurethane (tapes just kept not holding the glass).

[Rodney_Hamon]

I got the glass outta the track and cleaned it. Lot of wire brushing, acetic acid wash with steel wool and scraping. Figured out what dum dum was. The old glass had what looked like black gorilla tape and asphaltum glue wrapped on it stuffed into the channel.  I have roofing butyl roll sealant tape and roof sealant that I may adhere to some gorilla tape and install the glass that way.  Ggdad...was your truck out in the weather or extreme cold for the glass/track not adhering to the tape you used ?  

[9 foot box]

   I’ve always used glass setting tape. It comes in various thickness. I center it on the window and fold it over, apply some diluted dish soap, put the bottom piece on where it belongs and tap it on with a mallet. You should be able to use 1/16” setting tape, with a channel opening of slightly under .375”. When you have it bottomed in the channel, trim off the excess setting tape with sharp blade. I always clean and grease the door mechanisms with white grease. Be sure the bottom channel is facing the right way to attach to the arms of the lift. That’s how I would replace your window. Rick D.

[Rodney_Hamon]

Thanks for the helpful hints and keeping me straight.  Removing the broken glass and track was pretty easy considering the track fell off the rear runner and the trailing edge door stop rubber was gone. That door stop screw has been soaked in liquid wrench and Pb blaster for 4 days with a lot of tapping on it with a hammer. It is rusted good. I made a cardboard macquete and fit it into the track and tried to find the perfect spacing for the glass. The replacement glass from DCM is a bit snug also sliding up and dn for practice before glueing in. I need to take my belt sander with a fine grit belt and sand off a 1/16 on the leading edge so that it slides more smoothly. The previous glass was also not original and I saw issues with the bottom catching on this/that and chipping the glass. The glass run channel is marginal but I’ll glue it back on. This is a finicky job. 

[bkahler]

16 hours ago, Rodney_Hamon said:

The replacement glass from DCM is a bit snug also sliding up and dn for practice before glueing in. I need to take my belt sander with a fine grit belt and sand off a 1/16 on the leading edge so that it slides more smoothly.

 

Did you sand 1/16" off the glass or the track?

[Rodney_Hamon]

I will sand the glass. I had to go buy fine sanding belts today. Also, I had to buy new adhesive for the glass run channel as the old tube froze. 

[ggdad1951]

Just sand SLOW, you can overheat the glass and affect the laminate adhesive bond to the glass....

[Rodney_Hamon]

Thanks for that tip!! I have sanded 1/4 plate glass but never thought of that laminate I saw between my new glass. I’m just talking 1/16 or so off. Real cold arctic air and wind rolling in and the temp just plummeted so nothing will happen until this passes. 

[Rodney_Hamon]

Finally warmed up. Belt sanded off 1/16 of glass from the leading edge with a fine ceramic belt.  Checked the glass that was shimmed into the track first and rolled it up and dn and it slid just a little nicer. The DCM glass was a good piece to start with but things are just a little “not so perfect” with the channels etc. No rattling glass in the door that’s for certain. One piece of gorilla tape and two pieces of 3M super strength molding tape did the job setting the glass into the track. Got that from Ace H. Still lubricating the regulator and moving parts and trying to get the broken door stop screw removed from the trailing end.  

[ggdad1951]

Good job, I have 4 windows I've been playing with for TODD and it doesn't take much for things to get bound up, mixing and matching got me to a good place.  But I'm betting once I get them remade I'll have to tweak like you did.

[Rodney_Hamon]

I got that stubborn screw out holding what’s left of the rubber door stop. I found a piece of rubber from an old shock absorber I think and ground  it square on the bench grinder so it would fit in the clip. Nasty but had to be done. Then I couldn’t get the glass/track hooked on to the regulator in the door due to the other stop so I wrestled that out. It was a miracle that the bottom screw wasn’t rusted in as well and to my surprise the regulator assembly was able to be removed. Just one little screw dn there. Man.  Question:  The regulator assembly is slightly bent where the rollers are. The rollers are still not turning freely. Does this assembly need to be flat, bars parallel to each other and do those rollers need to roll freely even with the  spring pressure ?  

[Rodney_Hamon]

Installed the window today after cleaning the regulator and etc.  Surprised to see stainless steel components and copper. Good stuff.  It still does not roll up perfectly but it’s better than before.  

[ggdad1951]

LUBE LUBE LUBE

[Rodney_Hamon]

Well I screwed up. Whilst spraying lubricant on the track one more time and rolling the window up I noticed it was at a slant. The adhesive slid the channel sideways with the glass pushed up against it overnight. I have to break it loose and re glue but this time I will screw in the garnish molding  as a stop.  ?.  Lesson learned and it’s true....lube lube and lube