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Plymouth Cranbrook 1951


pby5

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Hi guys!
I apologize in advance for my poor knowledge of English - I am from Russia and speak English very superficially.
I ask you for technical advice.
I have a Plymouth Cranbrook 1951. This car has a very low mileage, but recently they tried to "restore" it and the car was simply killed . Plymouth tried to "cross" with BMW
Restoring to the original state now does not make sense.
The essence of the question to you: - I need drawings with the dimensions of the frame and the body itself.
Thank you in advance!
A few photos to get an idea of the scale of the tragedy:
[IMG]https://a.radikal.ru/a18/2201/8d/e09681ba3319.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]https://a.radikal.ru/a22/2201/48/eb3e78cb1a2b.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]https://d.radikal.ru/d05/2201/bf/59cd35807f32.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]https://a.radikal.ru/a41/2201/b1/41ffcfa7076c.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]https://b.radikal.ru/b04/2201/4a/0504e283db1c.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]https://b.radikal.ru/b24/2201/32/f39790cba53f.jpg[/IMG]

 

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Edited by pby5
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I have already separated the body from the frame, now I will change the rotten fragments and drawings will be very necessary, but I don't have them:(
So I would be very grateful for help with the drawings for Plymouth :)

2d83fb12-e470-4262-9bcd-f444698cfa9b.jpg

Edited by pby5
error correction
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11 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

if no one has these scanned and saved before making them easily able to upload....I will check back after my day in the yard working and see what I can do for you.    I have not set/tested my scanner since the lightning strike that wiped out my computer.

 

 

 

I would be very grateful for your help.

That's all I could find from the drawings for this car:

c51448d6-70f8-4f15-b8dd-348d096dffa2.jpg

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Don't know whether seeing the shapes of replacement pans would help. Buying and shipping would be too much, better to fabricate your own pans.  plymouth cranbrook - Classic 2 Current Fabrication (c2cfabrication.com)                      Microsoft Word - 1949 - 1952 Plymouth & Dodge Catalog (theplymouthdoctor.com)

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On 1/27/2022 at 2:20 PM, Plymouthy Adams said:

That is basically all I have also in my repair manual. It was everything I needed when grafting subframes in my builds.

OK.
then how to choose the right car model from the table? There are a lot of them in the table, but I can't decipher the VIN in any way.
Can you help me decipher it?
Here is a photo:

IMG_0161.jpg

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On 1/27/2022 at 3:15 PM, Bryan said:

Don't know whether seeing the shapes of replacement pans would help. Buying and shipping would be too much, better to fabricate your own pans. plymouth cranbrook - Classic 2 Current Fabrication (c2cfabrication.com)                      Microsoft Word - 1949 - 1952 Plymouth & Dodge Catalog (theplymouthdoctor.com)

Thank you very much for the valuable link, but it is impossible to restore the car to the original for objective reasons. It was greatly distorted from the original by previous masters. And I will leave the car as original as possible externally - I will replace its filling with a modern one.

That's what I'm doing right now:

474bab3c-bac8-488e-9fe8-fe5595c28f6b.jpg

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that is not a vin.....vin numbers did not come into play till much much later.   that is the serial number assigned by Chrysler on assembley.  You will also find on the firewall a Briggs tag which is the model and and body number supplied to Chrysler.   What you only need to be concerned with is P23 (long wheelbase) or P22 (short wheelbase)

 

what you have pictured, looking back, is the dimensions for a Chrysler....this car is larger than a Plymouth all around.  First identify your model number, P22 or P23 do not use the engine number here as both short and long gets the same engine number P23.....see if you are 111 inches which is P22  or 118.5 inches which is P23...then we can get the right frame data for you

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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32 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

that is not a vin.....vin numbers did not come into play till much much later. that is the serial number assigned by Chrysler on assembley. You will also find on the firewall a Briggs tag which is the model and and body number supplied to Chrysler. What you only need to be concerned with is P23 (long wheelbase) or P22 (short wheelbase)

 

what you have pictured, looking back, is the dimensions for a Chrysler....this car is larger than a Plymouth all around. First identify your model number, P22 or P23 do not use the engine number here as both short and long gets the same engine number P23.....see if you are 111 inches which is P22 or 118.5 inches which is P23...then we can get the right frame data for you

About VIN - that's exactly what you said. There was no native motor on the car at the time of purchase. The plate from the motor shield was dismantled before me :(

And after replacing the original rear suspension with a BMW suspension, I can't exactly set the size of the wheelbase...

So I thought that by deciphering the "number" from the rack I would be able to choose the right frame sizes.

There is another problem here, the rear part of the frame has been slightly modified in terms of geometry.

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I found an interesting site in the end:

https://www.ply33.com/Misc/vin

 

that's what, with his help, it turned out to decipher:

Serial Number 12765705
Found in range 12635001 to 12906467
Serial 130705 of 271467
Year 1951
Make Plymouth
Model Name Special DeLuxe or Cranbrook
Model Code P23C
Plant Detroit
Engine 6 cylinder 217.8 cu.in. L-head
Wheelbase 118 1/2 inches
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did you change the springs?  if not then the BMW axle will still be centered and represent the actual factory wheelbase yet......get out your tape measure and make a measure..if you are unsure if the front wheels are dead straight, measure both, add, divide by 2 and that should be your wheelbase.  

 

ELSE you read gauge hole to gauge hole of the frame...forward gauge hole is just rear of the firewall mount both fames....short wheelbase from there to the rear spring shackle hole is 118 and 5/8  and long wheelbase is 126 1/8    Forward of the frame hole at the firewall to front of chassis is same for both cars.

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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  • 3 weeks later...
On 1/28/2022 at 10:34 PM, Plymouthy Adams said:

did you change the springs?  if not then the BMW axle will still be centered and represent the actual factory wheelbase yet......get out your tape measure and make a measure..if you are unsure if the front wheels are dead straight, measure both, add, divide by 2 and that should be your wheelbase.  

 

ELSE you read gauge hole to gauge hole of the frame...forward gauge hole is just rear of the firewall mount both fames....short wheelbase from there to the rear spring shackle hole is 118 and 5/8  and long wheelbase is 126 1/8    Forward of the frame hole at the firewall to front of chassis is same for both cars.

Thanks for the hints! The frame is already ready in the first approximation, the first fitting to the body was successful.

cb80bf81-33cb-4b44-a9ff-6c6b69983b85.jpg

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On 1/30/2022 at 6:04 AM, Bryan said:

On my 1948 Dodge numbers are under the hood on the wall on the driver's side, or on one of the door sides near a hinge.

IMG_9082.JPG

IMG_3755.JPG

On my Plymouth, only the sign on the driver's door stand has been preserved. Thanks for the tip - I'll look for the number under the hood, they often come there!

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