Head bolt schoolin

[48jumpdoors]

hey there Sniper, I am replacing the wheel cylinders on my 48 Plymouth and am having a time figuring out how to adjust the brakes shoes. I cant find anything on this site it seems when I go to look. Do you of any posts that address this?

[Sam Buchanan]

53 minutes ago, 48jumpdoors said:

hey there Sniper, I am replacing the wheel cylinders on my 48 Plymouth and am having a time figuring out how to adjust the brakes shoes. I cant find anything on this site it seems when I go to look. Do you of any posts that address this?

 

I'm definitely not Sniper but here is a doc from the Tech section of our forum:

 

https://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html/

[48jumpdoors]

Well thank you very much, I looked up the Ammco 1750 and they are now going for $600, so I will have to figure something out. I know of some old mechanics in my area so Im going to check to see if they have one of these tools. I am fairly new to this site and cant seem to figure out how to research information on it. I search for topics but never can find exactly what Im looking for. Thanks for your initiative in helping me out. I am using one of the tools that Andy sells for adjusting brakes. It works but once it is screwed onto the axle it has a lot of play and in my opinion questionable as far as accuracy is concerned. 

[Sam Buchanan]

39 minutes ago, 48jumpdoors said:

Well thank you very much, I looked up the Ammco 1750 and they are now going for $600, so I will have to figure something out. I know of some old mechanics in my area so Im going to check to see if they have one of these tools. I am fairly new to this site and cant seem to figure out how to research information on it. I search for topics but never can find exactly what Im looking for. Thanks for your initiative in helping me out. I am using one of the tools that Andy sells for adjusting brakes. It works but once it is screwed onto the axle it has a lot of play and in my opinion questionable as far as accuracy is concerned. 

 

Sounds like you got a sloppily-made copy of the original brake adjusting tool.   ?

 

https://p15-d24.com/topic/50182-brake-adjustment-tool-updated/

 

[48jumpdoors]

the tool that I have is identical only different?? The slop Im referring to is in the castle nut that is welded onto the tool, its a back and forth or in towards the backing plate and back out to the end of the axle is where the play is. I have to either push  the tool in or pull it out when doing measurements to keep an accurate measurement similar to what you had said about the first tool that you has made.  Is there a system that you use during the adjustment process so as to keep from going back and forth between the minor/major adjustments? It seems that when I think I have it right I cant get the drum on, and have to start adjusting again.

[Sam Buchanan]

I suspect the tool you have has a poor-quality (cheap) nut with loose threads....or maybe the threads on your axles are very worn. I used a nut for a John Deere tractor, a little pricey. 

 

You might try getting another nut and lightly "double nut" the tool to firm things up so it will be useful.

[48jumpdoors]

I had thought of using another nut as you say, I'll give a go today and see what I come up with. Im sure that not everybody back then had one of these tools or a Ammco 1750 so Im sure there is a way to get it close and be safe as well. Thanks for your help!

[Sniper]

16 hours ago, 48jumpdoors said:

hey there Sniper, I am replacing the wheel cylinders on my 48 Plymouth and am having a time figuring out how to adjust the brakes shoes. I cant find anything on this site it seems when I go to look. Do you of any posts that address this?

 

I don't think I have any sort of comprehensive post on adjusting the brakes.  For the fronts I put in discs, so there is no longer a need to adjust them  For the rears I simply slotted the ends of the adjusting bolts so that you could use a screw driver to adjust them without playing the on/off game the factory procedure requires.  Once you have them set though, you do need to pull the drum to hold the adjuster while you torque the nuts.  A doubled up pair of cut off discs on my Dremel was how I cut the slots.

 

 

 

Edited April 4, 2023 by Sniper

[48jumpdoors]

On 4/4/2023 at 7:53 AM, Sniper said:

 

I don't think I have any sort of comprehensive post on adjusting the brakes.  For the fronts I put in discs, so there is no longer a need to adjust them  For the rears I simply slotted the ends of the adjusting bolts so that you could use a screw driver to adjust them without playing the on/off game the factory procedure requires.  Once you have them set though, you do need to pull the drum to hold the adjuster while you torque the nuts.  A doubled up pair of cut off discs on my Dremel was how I cut the slots.

 

 

 

Thank you sir, a great idea!! and thank you for taking the trouble to snap the photo

[48jumpdoors]

So I went ahead and cut the slots for both sides of the rear end and adjusted the drivers side using this method, how simple is that! I had to order some brake shoes for the other side as they had some brake fluid on them and I dont think I could get it off enough to be servicable. I was going to ask if you had switched to DOT 5 brake fluid? If so was it just a simple flush out of the DOT3 and then go with the DOT5 ? 

[rcl700]

On 11/25/2021 at 6:17 PM, Sniper said:

Finding specific listings is getting expensive.  Moparmall has them for $90, seen them on Ebay for the same.

 

Here are the specs so you can find something else more reasonable.

 

21pcs

11/16 hex head

7/16 thread

2.875 U.H.L ( under head length )

3-3/16 O.A.L ( over all length )

 

A set of Pioneer PIONEER PG362 is slightly longer at 3.000 in.U.H.L but work.  $35 for a set of 25

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pio-pg-362-25

 

Pioneer S1018 for the washers. $9.00.

 

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/washers?fr=part-type&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=PIONEER S1018

Is the washer used to take up the extra length in the longer stud? 

Is the thread lubricant mentioned locktite blue? 

[Sniper]

I have an aluminum head for my 230, hence the use of the washers.  I don't know that the washers are needed for the extra length, but since these are not blind holes I would say no.  Maybe if you doubled up on the washers they would make up the difference in length.  There are some that suggest you cut the bolts down so that nothing protrudes into the cooling jacket, to prevent corrosion and possible issues in that regard.

 

Not sure what you mean by the lubricant question.  The FSM generally implies the use of SAE 30 oil as the lubricant, unless otherwise specified.  Any change in lubricant may change the torque spec requirement.  Slipperier lubes need less torque to properly stretch the bolt.