1934 PE Clutch (adjustment/replacement?)

[Mac McFarland]

Well, Hi once again.  I was (finally) successful in getting my 34 Plymouth started and running (although I DO see some oil leaks) thanks to those who replied a few months ago.

 

I also finally got around to rebuilding my master cylinder, but am having difficulty getting the brakes bled (but I will get that eventually as I purchased the hand pump to replenish fluid in the lines).

 

But, that is not my immediate issue.  I wanted to back the car out of my basement garage the other day, so put all tires back on (had removed them for easier access/viewing when bleeding the brakes), and started the car.  I then attempted to shift into reverse.  Grinding.  The clutch 'feels' relatively okay (but hard to tell really how much pressure there is versus what needs to be).  I have the Maintenance Manual (on CD/computer/book) and doesn't really give much guidance on the procedures for replacing the clutch/pressure plate (and don't know if that is my issue or not).

 

I can shift into a gear when the engine is not running, but not when it is.

 

It appears I MAY have to replace the clutch, but wanted to ask a few questions before this 71 year old attempts such a grandiose feat!:

 

Would low fluid level in the tranny cause this? (Don't think so, but wanted to ask...haven't looked on how to check that level yet.)

Would engine/tranny removal be the best option before clutch replacement, or lying on back and doing in place (unfortunately, I do not have a lift---always wanted one, but basement height is only 10 feet.)?

Are clutch parts for this automobile available somewhere?

IS there some sort of adjustment in lieu of replacement?

 

PS--I IMAGINE that the real main seal MAY need to be replaced (like I said, saw oil leaks on floor, just not sure where it is coming from---car HAS been sitting for about a decade).  Would that process be better done under the car or with engine/transmission removed from the vehicle?

 

Advice?

[Mac McFarland]

(Rear Main, not Real Main)

[Merle Coggins]

If it's been sitting for a long period of time it's possible that the clutch disc is stuck to the flywheel. What happens if you put it in reverse before starting the engine? Be sure that the door is open, depress the clutch pedal with it in reverse, and start the engine. If it starts moving backwards while cranking you'll know it's stuck. However, that procedure may be enough to break it loose if it is. 

[Mac McFarland]

Thx....I will try it in a bit.

[TodFitch]

Only two adjustments on the 1933/34 clutch mechanism: One, directly by the pedal arm pivot for height. And a second where the pedal arm presses against a complicated linkage setup to rotate the shaft that pushes on the release bearing. With the hood open on the driver side and the the driver side door open so you can reach in and feel the clutch pedal with your hand it is pretty easy to verify and/or modify the adjustment. Make the adjustment under the hood then reach in to the driver's compartment and check the results by hand on the pedal.

 

First, adjust the pedal height as high as possible without hitting the floor board.

 

Second, adjust the travel before the pedal starts moving the throwout linkages to have 1 1/8" of travel at the pedal before starts moving the linkages.

 

If the adjustment is correct and you still have a problem or if the free play adjustment can't be made to be correct then you have a problem with the clutch internals. As mentioned by @Merle Coggins it is possible the disk/pressure plate may be rusted together and his technique might break it free.

 

If you are reduced to pulling the clutch there are a couple of tips that help:

 

First, remove the linkages between the pedal and the shaft going into the bell housing (if you don't then you can't rotate that shaft enough to allow the throw out bearing to clear when pulling or installing the transmission. You are likely to be able to remove the transmission but maybe not get it back in with the throw out bearing return spring installed. At least that is my experience with my '33 which has basically the same setup.

 

Second, get two long bolts and cut the heads off. Remove the top two transmission mounting bolts then install the long headless bolts you made up. This will help support the transmission as you slide it out and back in. Now go ahead and remove the lower two bolts and slide the transmission out.

 

If you have a lift and a transmission jack you are in good shape. I don't. So I remove the front floor boards and then stand inside the car cradling the transmission with my hands as I slide it out. Then I can lower it to the floor.

[chrysler1941]

Some years ago my clutch was stuck after long moist winter. Back and forth, shocking it. Towed by another car, pedal in and out, nothing....took lower clutch pan off and pried it loose. It worked perfectly after.