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Posted (edited)

I didn't expect to have to punch a hole through the top of the "sock" to do it, but that wasn't so hard. I got it started and worked the material over and around the tube from the bottom of the canister. 5 quarts later came that sick feeling couple of seconds before the oil pressure jumps to 45-50 at idle.

Now I can drive the rest of the year probably, do it again next year. Not that many miles get put on her, less than the 2500 my insurance is setup for.

Runs very quiet at idle. Valves are still adjusted nicely.

While I was letting the oil drain, I crawled under and dabbed some more Coroseal on any surface rust I could get my arm up to. All along the frame (just spots) including the cross member and floor board supports. Even put some on the top of the differential. I love that stuff.

Edited by lostviking
typo
Posted

If you love High zinc oil but do not want to spend big $$, check out Pennzoil line of oils. A friend with one of those lumpy type of idle -flat tappet cams that need it told me that they sell a high zinc oil available in many auto parts stores for less than $5 a quart which is reasonable for racing oils?

 

DJ

Posted

with the low miles driven I feel it's not a bad deal to pop for the "good stuff" type oil...pays for itself over the long run IMO.

Posted

I’ll check it out.  After warmup what should my oil pressure be.  I looked today it was reading 35 but had been running a while and it’s 95 here today

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