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Dual master cylinder for 1942 P14


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Posted

Kim,

I'm listening pretty hard for the answers you will get on this one - been asked many times, and the only work-around I know of that really works involves moving the steering box forward about 5/8-inch.

Sure would be grand if someone here in the midst of all this MoPar think-power could come up with a part number that would fit in that too-small space where the original lives. The hydraulic plumbing part is a snap - it's just a matter of finding enough room down there for the dual version. LOL

Posted

There were some pictures on here awhile ago of a dual master cylinder setup.Maybe you could put in a search on this forum for "dual master cylinder" and you may find it. Some have used a firewall mount from a later vehicle. Brendan.

  • 5 years later...
Posted (edited)

Not sure if this will work for other years but I made a bracket that that allowed me to mount a dual master cylinder (I belive a 1967 mustang dual was the smallest i found) right in front of the original location and just clears the column.  Picture attached..  PLease dont laught but this was a mock setup to test clearance etc..  I will refabricate bracket with thicker steel

 

 

post-4811-0-28547300-1361920258_thumb.jpg

Edited by 40desoto
Posted

I used

Fenco Reman/Master Cylinder (Brake System)  NON Power 
Part Number: M1485
Alternate Part Number: 10-1485     $16  $10 core
Posted

I used

Fenco Reman/Master Cylinder (Brake System)  NON Power 
Part Number: M1485

Alternate Part Number: 10-1485     $16  $10 core

Do you have a photo of your setup?  I'm figuring since this all so close it would work in my P15 as well.  I'd be interested in seeing photos if you have them.

 

Thanks ahead of time.

 

FG.

Posted

This always a great topic, and always enjoy seeing how some of you have fabbed in a dual MC. These more modern MCs are used instead of the single pot originals for a variety of reasons, and safety being #1.

A lot of us are still using the original single pots, are they dangerous? How many of you Guys have had brake failure as a result of a bad original type MC?

I do realize, if a wheel cyl blows out, a single pot will be emptied and useless, and the dual mc, will leave you with some brakes.

I am only mentioning this, to actually discover how many have had major brake failure, with a stock hydraulic system....

Posted

I used the mustang setup also. There's not a lot of space but it will fit. There's some pictures on my build thread.

Was the original master cylinder under the floor like my 47 is?
Posted (edited)

This always a great topic, and always enjoy seeing how some of you have fabbed in a dual MC. These more modern MCs are used instead of the single pot originals for a variety of reasons, and safety being #1.

A lot of us are still using the original single pots, are they dangerous? How many of you Guys have had brake failure as a result of a bad original type MC?

I do realize, if a wheel cyl blows out, a single pot will be emptied and useless, and the dual mc, will leave you with some brakes.

I am only mentioning this, to actually discover how many have had major brake failure, with a stock hydraulic system....

 i had a brake failure driving a 68 ford pick up with a dual m/c.lesson i learned..maintain your automobile/truck. the truck i was driving was an old farm truck that i bought sight unseen from a mutual friend's dad i was a lot younger then it had been sitting for a long time and if i had any brains back then i would have spent the time and money and gone through the brakes. .the difference  between a duel m/c and single is about three pumps of the brakes compared to none. .dad's 440 d24 has a 67 mustang duel m/c mounts in stock location..but Plymouth may be different... benny

Edited by moparbenny
Posted

Don't think a dual master will save your bacon if you have a failure. I had a Dart that had dual master, had an on the road failure and the remaining stopping power was much less than the emergency brake.  

 

As moparbenny said, maintain your brakes!

Posted

 i had a brake failure driving a 68 ford pick up with a dual m/c.lesson i learned..maintain your automobile/truck. the truck i was driving was an old farm truck that i bought sight unseen from a mutual friend's dad i was a lot younger then it had been sitting for a long time and if i had any brains back then i would have spent the time and money and gone through the brakes. .the difference  between a duel m/c and single is about three pumps of the brakes compared to none. .dad's 440 d24 has a 67 mustang duel m/c mounts in stock location..but Plymouth may be different... benny

 

Yes sir, been there, bad rear caliper on a 1996 Nissan, had some brake action though, and it was around town when it hppened, side street.

Don't think a dual master will save your bacon if you have a failure. I had a Dart that had dual master, had an on the road failure and the remaining stopping power was much less than the emergency brake.  

 

As moparbenny said, maintain your brakes!

Yup, just 2 days checking MC on 1955 Fargo, noticed it got low, checked all wheels, and found the culprit, left rear wheel cyl, which is a diff from an 1988 Diplomat, $13.00 for new wheel cyls each, some new brake line, and back in business.

I was not enough of a leak, or I caught it in time, brake shoes are fine, only 400 miles on those shoes.

I did not replace wheel cyls ,when I did brake job, they were lookin okay, guess I should have....

Posted

To leave the original brake/clutch pedals in place is a big plus when adapting

a newer MC. I used a simple piece of angle iron, a longer push rod, and a Mustang II

MC, on my 48 Dodge, worked very good....

Many here have done something similar...

post-1465-0-73267300-1361986467_thumb.jpg

post-1465-0-73058100-1361986490_thumb.jpg

Posted

I used the mustang setup also. There's not a lot of space but it will fit. There's some pictures on my build thread.

This is excellent.  This is exactly was I was aiming for but I did not weld any support to the frame.  I simply mounted and extention to the original master mounting holes.    When I do take the Body of the frame I will do just like you did.  My setup is currently working but worries me that the master seems to move  a bit when I press the brake pedal

Posted

Was the original master cylinder under the floor like my 47 is?

The original on the 40's was under the floor but right in front of the brake pedal itself. not behind it

Posted

Had to replace a rear wheel cyl (1988 Mopar 8 1/4 diff), was leaking on the toward front side of wheel cyl.

I installed a new wheel cyl, the brake line from T junction on the diff, this went well, very little brake fluid messed up inside the drums. The brake shoes, hardware, drums are new with only 500 miles.

After bleeding brakes, I have a slight leak in the new wheel cyl, and same side as the old wheel cyl go figure.

I also notice my MC has some leaking going on.....Lots of fun.

I am going to go through all again, maybe rebuild or replace MC, all shoes are new, drums machined, but hydraulics now acting up.

I wonder what other dual MC might be a good candidate for a 1955 Dodge pickup...

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

 

To leave the original brake/clutch pedals in place is a big plus when adapting

a newer MC. I used a simple piece of angle iron, a longer push rod, and a Mustang II

MC, on my 48 Dodge, worked very good....

Many here have done something similar...

 

Here is a photo of the push rod I added to the original adjustable

set up....

post-1465-0-61239900-1362832754_thumb.jpg

Posted

Roberts set-up works; ask me how I know !!  lol.. Don't forget to consider the actual height of the "new" MC ( can u spell "bump" in the floor ) !!!  lol.. Cass, alias littlemo...

Posted

 

Roberts set-up works; ask me how I know !!  lol.. Don't forget to consider the actual height of the "new" MC ( can u spell "bump" in the floor ) !!!  lol.. Cass, alias littlemo...

 

"Bump in the floor"== elevated foot rest....

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