RedHot71 Posted October 11, 2019 Report Posted October 11, 2019 Has anyone converted to 12 volt & then had to replace the headlite switch? I figured instead of buying another 6-volt switch & still using the headlite relay that came w/ the 12 volt conversion, I just figured go to 12 volt switch. Problem is, there are 6 connections on 12 volt switch & only 5 on the 6 volt. I looked at the wiring diagram for clarification and all I see are letters. On the new switch it is spelled out. A lot of my wiring has already been replaced and evidently the guy liked green wire for some reason. It's all green. HELP!!! (B3-J 2 1/2 ton dump truck) Why does one of the wires for the original switch go to the brake switch? Also, the new turn signal lever I just installed is supposed to go to that switch as well. Power? Quote
JBNeal Posted October 11, 2019 Report Posted October 11, 2019 (edited) If ya have all green wires, that sounds like a custom job so you can do whatever ya want with the terminals...if ya use 12V relays then the original switch should work as long as the internal contacts and terminals are fairly clean...at any rate, the switch's 1st position usually powers marker and dash lights, the 2nd position powers headlights...the quantity of terminals on the switch is usually for separating loads for convenience and not necessarily for functionality... additional information - Modified Wiring Diagram with Headlight Relays + Turn Signals Edited October 16, 2019 by JBNeal revised link 1 Quote
RedHot71 Posted October 11, 2019 Author Report Posted October 11, 2019 OK. Sorry, do not understand what you are saying. 1st position, 2nd position??? I am not that great w/electric. Quote
JBNeal Posted October 12, 2019 Report Posted October 12, 2019 switch pushed in: lights OFF =========== switch pulled out one *click* (1st position) marker + instrument panel lights ON =========== switch pulled out two *clicks* (2nd position) headlights ON Quote
lostviking Posted October 12, 2019 Report Posted October 12, 2019 (edited) I don't know why anyone would go to a "12V Switch". The 6V switch should already be able to handle more current than will be drawn after going to 12V I'd think. I could be wrong, but 6V at any number of watts takes more current that 12V. Edited October 12, 2019 by lostviking Quote
RedHot71 Posted October 13, 2019 Author Report Posted October 13, 2019 Switch is bad, so I figured truck is now 12 volt, go w/12 volt switch. Then I could do away w/the relay that came w/12 volt conversion I purchased. What a waste of money that was. It is easy to do w/o a kit. Cheaper to just buy the parts needed. Quote
Los_Control Posted October 13, 2019 Report Posted October 13, 2019 Depends on what you want. Switching to 12 volt is pretty simple, 6 volt actually requires heavier wire then 12 volt. So most original stoofs will work when swapped to 12 volt battery. Because the 6 volt was heavier. So the original switch should work fine on 12 volt, they actually can be taken apart and cleaned. While a new switch probably wont have that option. Quote
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