Front Suspension Spindle Rebuild 47 Plymouth P15

[NickPickToo]

Completed rebuilding the spindle assemblies on my 47 Plymouth deluxe. The following thread provided details, tips and tricks.  Apologies in advance that we did not capture every step in photo, but I will try to be complete in the description.  Details from this point assume the assembly has been removed.

 

Edited June 26, 2019 by NickPickToo

[Bobby]

You almost have to own a P15 to appreciate how beautiful these are. I am enjoying this thread and wish you continued awesomeness on the rest of the build.

 

B

[NickPickToo]

First remove the Lock Pin from the spindle housing.  It is holding the King Pin in place.  Look for the side that has been "staked."   It is also the side of the lock pin that will be fully round while the other side will be half round.  "Staked" simply means the assembly housing has been chipped in to keep the pin from slipping out (we talk about the caps later which are also staked).  This side is the opposite side from where the pin should be pushed (or tapped) out.

[NickPickToo]

next you want to remove the caps.  Assuming this is the first overhall the caps will be staked at four points.  Again staking is simply chipping the housing in to hold the cap in place.  This is as opposed to caps that have threads.  We planned to replace the caps along with the pins etc. so removing the caps with care was not a priority.  We simply pressed the top cap into the assembly and into the king pin until the bottom cap was pushed free.  Then we flipped the assembly and pressed the pin  back the other way until the top cap was pushed free.  The king pin then will slide out easily, but if it does not you can press it out the full way.  We used a hydraulic press (neighbor had one in his workshop -- he's a retired engineer from GM) and a carriage bolt for this step. (sorry no pictures of this step).

Edited June 27, 2019 by NickPickToo

[NickPickToo]

Now the knuckle assembly with the spindle will separate from the support assembly and you can remove the king pin bushings from the knuckle assembly either by pushing or tapping them out with a bushing driver tool.  Tapping the bushings out is fairly easy but Tapping the new ones in is not easy.  Its best to press them in and out.  In the picture below I should have used a cloth to hold the knuckle in the vice.  Again, no pictures of us using the press.

Edited June 27, 2019 by NickPickToo

[NickPickToo]

We used a press to push the new bushings in (no pictures) and we also needed to ream the bushings out to fit the pins correctly (again no pictures).  We outsourced the reaming to Harold's Frame Shop in Novi MI.  They specialize in trucks so still know king pin suspensions well.

[NickPickToo]

Now you are ready to reassemble the whole thing.  For each side you will need the knuckle assembly and the support arm.  you will need a king pin, a barring, spacers, caps, lock pin and new grease certs.  You will also need grease, a punch and two hammers (rubber mallet and a ball pean hammer).  Safety goggles, paper towels  and grip gloves recommended.  

[NickPickToo]

First make sure the king pin fits the bushings well.  It should move up and down in the knuckle assembly well but there should be no play at all side to side.  Notice I'm using a paper towel folded several time to hold the assembly in the vice for this test.  The assembly is upside down, but that does not matter here.

 

 

Edited June 27, 2019 by NickPickToo

[NickPickToo]

Its best to assemble the parts from the bottom which allows you to add the shims (first) and the bearings (second) before adding the support arm (last).  I recommend adding extra shims first then removing the shims if the fit is too tight until the whole assembly pivots freely.  MAKE SURE the notch in the king pin is facing the correct way so that the lock pin can be added once the assembly is together and also  MAKE SURE that the top of the bearing is facing up and the moving portion of the bearing is facing down.

 

 

Edited June 27, 2019 by NickPickToo

[NickPickToo]

Couple of tips.

 

Grease the inside of the bushings and the king pin and pack the bearings with grease before assembling.  make sure the grease cert wholes are not blocked with old crusty grease as well.

 

Kanter's king pin is more well polished and easier to work with than Andy Bernbaum's but then the set on AB's site for the P15 cost less.   That said, AB's bearings seemed to be better quality but needed to be packed with grease while Kanter's bearings were pre-packed with grease.  The caps in AB's set were easier to work with. We only know this because we messed up the job before getting it right and were able to try different sets.

 

Make sure you keep the left and right side knuckle and the support arms matched together.  If you forgot to mark them as such check the manual to be sure.  Good tip is that the stud that receives the the shock absorber will be facing he front of the chassis when installed as will the "stop screw" (I think I'm making that term up) on the spindle knuckle that is used to limit the movement of the knuckle from side to side. 

Edited June 27, 2019 by NickPickToo

[NickPickToo]

Inserting the lock pin is straight forward.  Just remember that the notched end goes in first and that you will need to "stake" the pin in as well.

Edited June 27, 2019 by NickPickToo

[NickPickToo]

Now finally add the end caps and stake them in at four points.  Add the grease certs and your done with this and ready to reassemble the front suspension.

Edited June 27, 2019 by NickPickToo

[Dodgeb4ya]

Good job!

...and make sure the thrust bearing metal casing cover faces up and any shims needed are at the bottom under the thrust bearing.

 

Edited June 27, 2019 by Dodgeb4ya

[NickPickToo]

6 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

Good job!

...and make sure the thrust bearing metal casing cover faces up and any shims needed are at the bottom under the thrust bearing.

 

Yes.  Very important detail.  I edited it in up the chain.  Thank you.

Edited June 27, 2019 by NickPickToo

[Frank Elder]

6 hours ago, NickPickToo said:

Now finally add the end caps and stake them in at four points.  Add the great certs and your done with this and ready to reassemble the front suspension.

 

Great......lol! The autofill/spell check cracks me up sometimes...good luck with your grease zerks! 

 

[NickPickToo]

1 hour ago, Frank Elder said:

Great......lol! The autofill/spell check cracks me up sometimes...good luck with your grease zerks! 

 

Wish I could blame the autofill/spell check function on the computer rather than the one in my head.