Heater core alternatives/paint tips

[Fastback50]

Hey all---spring has (sort of) sprung here in MI, and I'm starting to dig back into the 50 Plymouth.  I have a few questions and am looking for feedback.

 

Has anyone figured out a modern heater core that will fit into the heater box in these years?  My trusty radiator guy here said it would be $200 to fix mine!  I am already having to get the regular rad patched and pressure tested, and am working on a budget here.  Any modern heater core ideas would be great.

 

Also, I have lots of rust on this car.  In areas where the metal is salvageable (like inner/outer fenders or battery tray), I've wire wheeled and painted, but find that pitting is still evident.  Is there some paint that will fill in the pitting, or do I sand the pitting out, or what is the best way to make the newly painted steel look "new" again? I'm getting ready to start chassis painting as go along as well, is roller the best or rattle can/sprayer?  Thanks all

[greg g]

I have one that cam out of a late Pontiac Sunbird its about 7 x 5 and an inch thick I was going to use it for an oil cooler but changed my mind. you might have to fabricate a mount but it might be a candidate to slip into where the stock one goes. should be able to find one at the big box store or on line.

 

https://www.partsgeek.com/gy9y67d-pontiac-sunfire-heater-core.html?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=ff&utm_content=MP&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Bing&gb=pp&utm_term=1100003047982&ad=11620898017

[Fastback50]

1 hour ago, greg g said:

I have one that cam out of a late Pontiac Sunbird its about 7 x 5 and an inch thick I was going to use it for an oil cooler but changed my mind. you might have to fabricate a mount but it might be a candidate to slip into where the stock one goes. should be able to find one at the big box store or on line.

 

https://www.partsgeek.com/gy9y67d-pontiac-sunfire-heater-core.html?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=ff&utm_content=MP&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Bing&gb=pp&utm_term=1100003047982&ad=11620898017

 

Thanks--I'll try it!

[The Oil Soup]

Here is some good reference material on heater cores. http://www.carquestprofessionals.com/catalogs/heating_cooling/htr_heater_core_app_guide.pdf

[Dan Hiebert]

Regarding your paint question.  You'll need to ensure there is no rust left in the pitting, either by media blasting, or chemical treatment, or both.  If not, it'll just start to rust again under your nice new paint, especially in Michigan humidity.  It's always best to replace the metal, but working on a limited budget can be overcome with preparation.  Don't rely on the color coat to fill any imperfections (pitting), that has to be done during the prep, which is easy enough, though time consuming.  Depending on how bad the pitting is, if not so bad, either use layers of regular primer with sanding between them, or best, use high build primer so you don't have to sand as many times - either one until you get the surface you want to put the color coat on.  If badly pitted, you can prime, and use glazing putty to fill imperfections more quickly, or use body filler (i.e. Bondo) per directions on the bare metal before you prime.  Bondo gets a bad rap, but it's purpose is really just to clean up imperfections in body work.  Whichever you choose, prep is key to a good color coat, body, frame, whatever.  Good surface preparation (biggest component of that being patience) will get your metal where you want it.  I've always used rattle cans or a sprayer to paint the chassis, seems to cover better, and I like the finish better as well, although I've used a brush or foam brush to paint inconspicuous parts when I've been concerned about overspray on occasion. 

[Fastback50]

8 hours ago, Dan Hiebert said:

Regarding your paint question.  You'll need to ensure there is no rust left in the pitting, either by media blasting, or chemical treatment, or both.  If not, it'll just start to rust again under your nice new paint, especially in Michigan humidity.  It's always best to replace the metal, but working on a limited budget can be overcome with preparation.  Don't rely on the color coat to fill any imperfections (pitting), that has to be done during the prep, which is easy enough, though time consuming.  Depending on how bad the pitting is, if not so bad, either use layers of regular primer with sanding between them, or best, use high build primer so you don't have to sand as many times - either one until you get the surface you want to put the color coat on.  If badly pitted, you can prime, and use glazing putty to fill imperfections more quickly, or use body filler (i.e. Bondo) per directions on the bare metal before you prime.  Bondo gets a bad rap, but it's purpose is really just to clean up imperfections in body work.  Whichever you choose, prep is key to a good color coat, body, frame, whatever.  Good surface preparation (biggest component of that being patience) will get your metal where you want it.  I've always used rattle cans or a sprayer to paint the chassis, seems to cover better, and I like the finish better as well, although I've used a brush or foam brush to paint inconspicuous parts when I've been concerned about overspray on occasion. 

Thanks Dan--that was an excellent explanation--I'll try the high build primer out for sure.  I've been experimenting with self-etching primer, haven't tried putting color on it yet though.  Early on when I knew nothing I had just used rattle can Rustoleum semi gloss for inner fenders and the battery tray.  I want to build my knowledge base on paint/painting so that when it's time to do that, I can give the car a universally decent paint job.