5027 steve Posted April 5, 2019 Report Share Posted April 5, 2019 Is it possible to remove the engine without the bell housing in these vehicles or Is it impossible... Loosing more than winning with this truck .......down on my luck ....... Thanks Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted April 5, 2019 Report Share Posted April 5, 2019 If you want to remove the engine and leave the bell housing in the chassis you will need to remove the trans, clutch, and flywheel. Parts of the bell housing go between the flywheel and the block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted April 5, 2019 Report Share Posted April 5, 2019 I removed my B3B engine and clutch housing with pedals attached, but so much easier to remove the front fenders and grille first. IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobacuda Posted April 5, 2019 Report Share Posted April 5, 2019 (I posted this back in 2009, tells how I did it, leaving the Bell Housing in the truck.) I pulled mine Saturday. Pretty much old school type job. Hope you have a good shed with a concrete floor. Get a reliable helper that is strong enough to help. Lots of "on your back work" if you don't have a lift. Lots of crawling up and down, chasing different wrenches, too. Block the wheels and totally disconnect your battery if it is live. Take photos before you remove stuff to help with putting it all back together. Put your parts and labeled bags of bolts where you will know how to and where to reassemble them. Sounds corny, but it really helps. I took the floor pan over the transmission and the first narrow one toward the firewall out to make access (and light underneath) better. Then I removed the hood, radiator, and disconnected every wire or sending unit to the engine (including the battery cable that is grounded on the top of the trans) and removed everything possible - starter, generator, oil filter and lines, distributor, fan and water pump, manifolds, carb and linkage (disconnect from linkage that is bolted to back of engine) and I disconnected the exhaust. Be very careful with your temperature guage's sending unit. They are made from "unobtanium" and break easily (guess how I know). I put the front of the truck on jackstands after that to have more room underneath. With that done, I crawled under the truck and disconnected the speedometer cable, emergency brake cable and the transmission shifter arms. Then I took the nuts off of the driveshaft yoke where it bolts to the back of the transmission. After that, I put the rear of the truck on jackstands and disconnected the driveshaft at the rear u-joint and removed the shaft (it is heavy). Four bolts hold the transmission in. Best to use a transmission or floor jack or that really strong helper when removing the trans. Next, take the cover off of the bottom of the bell housing. This will allow you to get to unbolt the clutch. I popped the throwout bearing out, unbolted the clutch and removed it out the bottom. My truck is a fluid drive, so I still had to take out the "torque converter/flywheel." If yours is a regular old standard, you will have to remove the flywheel. Both are heavy and clumsy when you are on your back. To get to all of the bolts, you will have to turn the engine over by hand, either from underneath or with a big socket and breaker bar on the nut that holds the belt pully to the crankshaft (that is what I did). While I was doing this, my son removed two head bolts on opposite sides of the engine (R side, bolt #3 and L side, bolt #5). We put the chain for the hoist between the bolts. Hoist in place and a little lift, we took the engine to bell housing bolts out. There are two on each side and the two at the back of the engine that also hold the rest of the carburator linkage. Keeping the hoist tight, we removed the two bolts that hold the front motor mount's "saddle" to the frame. Now, only the hoist and two metal alignment dowels on the back of the engine into the bell housing were holding the engine. My engine was somewhat stuck to the bell housing, so I put WD 40 on the alignment dowels and used a long screwdriver between the bell housing and the block to get them apart-didn't take much. Once that was done we hoisted it up and out, then mounted it on the engine stand. Now that I have the engine out, I will have a much easier time rebuilding the brakes (master cylinder - put your new one on before you reinstall the engine or you will regret it) and I'm going to break down and rewire it. My kids have threatened to have me committed if I don't repaint it. From start to finish, counting numerous breaks we were at it about 7 hrs. I don't remember it taking as long the last time I took one out, but that was 15 years ago. This should give you some idea what to expect. I would suggest that no matter how little you plan to do to the engine that you consider replacing the water distribution tube (which is also a PITA to get out). Every one of my old flatheads always seemed to have corroded or blocked distribution tubes. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5027 steve Posted April 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2019 (edited) Thanks for the response guys......funny how pulling a motor out of a 70 yr old vehicle is in some ways harder than most ....... Edited April 6, 2019 by 5027 steve Spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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