37 Plymouth Sedan Resto- New Member

[blucarsdn]

I recently thought I would be very cleaver with the rebuild of a GM C10 Rail Road truck. The C10 RR trucks are very rare, they are an extended cab, with a back seat, the rear portion of the cab is very similar to a suburban with no back doors/tail-gate, a big window rear panel is used in lieu of the normal bard doors, etc.

We discarded the '64 chassis, opting for a '98 C10 chassis with 5.7 V8, 4L60 AOD trans and the '98 differential. We used a Painless wiring harness to manage the power-train with the stock GM ECM that was re-flashed to eliminate all of the removed systems. Anti theft, navigation, etc. We eliminated the stock GM air box in favor of a KN filter-intake...

The truck is a pleasure to drive with it's bucket seats, AC,PW, tilt, etc., still have paint work to do on the body. The truck is a real attention getter, mainly because they are so few and far between.

[blucarsdn]

Additional pix of the engine compatment

[cturboaddict]

I just picked up the 99 5.3 ls/vortec motor with 4l60e and the complete harness/ECU pulled from the donor truck. Time to start making it fit. Gotta upload some photos.

 

Sidebar- is there a way to swap the current bolts to studs on the wheels? Would I need okay to just put studs in place for right now? I have a set of rims and tires I'd like to throw on there just to mockup. 

[sser2]

41 minutes ago, cturboaddict said:

Sidebar- is there a way to swap the current bolts to studs on the wheels? 

Contemporary Dodge used basically same hubs, but with studs instead of bolts. With your mods, you will be using modern hubs and rear axle anyway, so why bother?

Edited August 25, 2018 by sser2
error

[cturboaddict]

1 hour ago, sser2 said:

Contemporary Dodge used basically same hubs, but with studs instead of bolts. With your mods, you will be using modern hubs and rear axle anyway, so why bother?

Because I have different size rims and tires all around right now. I have a set of rims and tires that are matched that I can bolt on. Just wanted to see how much if any lowering we wanted to do with a modern set of tires on it... 

[blucarsdn]

22 hours ago, cturboaddict said:

I just picked up the 99 5.3 ls/vortec motor with 4l60e and the complete harness/ECU pulled from the donor truck. Time to start making it fit. Gotta upload some photos.

 

Sidebar- is there a way to swap the current bolts to studs on the wheels? Would I need okay to just put studs in place for right now? I have a set of rims and tires I'd like to throw on there just to mockup. 

 

Having been there done that I would caution you to go back to the vehicle that you harvested the engine from, see if you can harvest the fuel lines going from the engine to the fuel tank, you will also need the fuel tank filler neck that will accommodate the stock screw in cap. We used a fuel tank from Tanks that would accommodate an electric pump for fuel delivery and vapor return.

We did not use a stock file tube the first go around.. The truck would run well then stumble and die.. Finally figured out it was the fuel cap 

holding pressure, releasing the cap released the vacuum in the tank.

I would also suggest that you talk to Painless about their wiring harness.

[Adam H P15 D30]

We installed an LM (Tahoe LS) in dad’s 35. Went with the painless harness and a 2004R, much smaller in size than the 4L60. The factory harness is useless. If you take that LS apart, read CAREFULLY concerning the crank pulley reinstall. Use the ARP bolt and torque to 250 lb/ft per instructions. Don’t try to reuse the factory bolt. 

 

Adam

[cturboaddict]

3 hours ago, blucarsdn said:

 

Having been there done that I would caution you to go back to the vehicle that you harvested the engine from, see if you can harvest the fuel lines going from the engine to the fuel tank, you will also need the fuel tank filler neck that will accommodate the stock screw in cap. We used a fuel tank from Tanks that would accommodate an electric pump for fuel delivery and vapor return.

We did not use a stock file tube the first go around.. The truck would run well then stumble and die.. Finally figured out it was the fuel cap 

holding pressure, releasing the cap released the vacuum in the tank.

I would also suggest that you talk to Painless about their wiring harness.

I've looked into it. But also have looked at lt1swap.com to utilize the factory harness modified for the swap with an new ECU program. Going to give that a shot before I shell out for the engine harness from painless. Unfortunately the truck was totaled and motor was already pulled. Truck is gone. I've found the correct fuel sizes on the site listed above. 

[cturboaddict]

3 hours ago, Adam H P15 D30 said:

We installed an LM (Tahoe LS) in dad’s 35. Went with the painless harness and a 2004R, much smaller in size than the 4L60. The factory harness is useless. If you take that LS apart, read CAREFULLY concerning the crank pulley reinstall. Use the ARP bolt and torque to 250 lb/ft per instructions. Don’t try to reuse the factory bolt. 

 

Adam

Will do. Thanks for the heads up. 

[blucarsdn]

I have a 2002 GM 5.7 330 HP V8 in my '39 Plym. It is a GM crate motor, brand new from the dealer. I had read several articles in Street Rodder, etc., about the advantages of using FI, I picked up a complete GM F.I. system to use on the engine. My plan was to use a 7004R trans behind the engine because they do not need a computer. Since my '39 is a convertible coupe it has a double frame, no hump in the floor.

The more I thought about the F.I. the more I thought, that less is more, I sold the F.I. system, bought an Edlebrock 4 brl Performer manifold and carb. I bought a new GM electronic ignition and never looked back.

My '64 C10 with the '98 5.7 Vortec, 4L60 trans, has been a whole different story. When it runs well it is a pleasure to drive, however, the so called guru's on late model engine conversions don't seem to know quite as much as they think they do. One thing we have found is that GM electronics only like GM components, when you start trying to mix modules, sensors, etc., from the parts stores with GM, you are looking for trouble.

If you are the kind of guy that likes to tinker with things, then having an EMF (every minute fixum) might be to your liking.

[cturboaddict]

5.3 L Motor

Edited August 27, 2018 by cturboaddict
Added Photo

[dodgeguy]

Hi, c turbo. I sent you a P M over on the message side. Also what is that maroon fender on the 4 door sitting next to your 37, a Plymouth?

[cturboaddict]

3 hours ago, dodgeguy said:

Hi, c turbo. I sent you a P M over on the message side. Also what is that maroon fender on the 4 door sitting next to your 37, a Plymouth?

Replied bud!
In the first photos that were uploaded, was at the previous owners house in Missouri. He also had a 39 Dodge Sedan for sale (was a bit closer to "finished") . We liked the 37 better. He also had a 37 Truck that he drives around. 

[cturboaddict]

Moving right along here.
Front end stripped off, front floor boards removed. Motor/Trans and driveshaft are out.
I mocked up some 17s and matching front diameter tires to see what a factory rake looked like. 

Now, to get some motor mounts mocked up and get this slug set in position to see where things interfere.

The Mrs is pretty stoked, and is helping alot. 

 

 

[cturboaddict]

Now to figure steering/front suspension direction.
Debating on Fatman MII front end or figuring a vega box for steering. 
Steering is the bigger issue...... 

[junkers72]

Can’t you use power steering box from Your donor? just a thought. Either way you gotta make up a mount for it

[cturboaddict]

I have the pump/reservoir from the 99 Silverado. That's all.

Would need a rack/gear.....

[junkers72]

Oops , I was reading about another project where a Jeep was donating its drivetrain . Obviously not this one.. sorry

[DJ194950]

Back in the mid 70's a friend in S.C. put a factory hot 340 with automatic trans in a twin car to yours, man was it fast!

 

He mounted some kind a manual R&P steering On the front axle with a slip shaft steer setup to a later column. The front axle and parts were repaired as needed and it steered easy and straight using  radial tires. He was on the frugal side and the MII were not really getting popular yet. Drove nice even at 100 mph on the freeway.

 

Something to think about.??

 

DJ

[Daedelus77]

Looks like you’re going to take good care of Eleanor....?yes, it’s me...

Edited September 9, 2018 by Daedelus77
Spelling

[cturboaddict]

19 minutes ago, Daedelus77 said:

Looks like you’re going to take good care of Eleanor....?yes, it’s me...

Right on! I figured I'd find you lurking somewhere. Gotta get some photos uploaded of the current progress. 

[cturboaddict]

First motor mockup. It's a tight fit, but looks like she should go just fine. I have a little bit too much of motor angle (around 8deg showing off the water pump pulley)at the moment , but need to address the front suspension to set the frame at proper rake before final alignment of the motor. (Currently have no/slight rake) Also need to recheck engine bay for squareness, as there is a slight off center alignment currently with the motor. (I know they can be slightly out of line if need be, as this is common in alot of motor swaps). Really leaning towards the Fatman Mustang ii kit currently. Trying to find another direct fit option to compare the two.  Would figure I'd might as well go with the power steering option from Fatman if I'm going that route.

 

 

 

 

[cturboaddict]

A little update on to where I am now in the progress. I've swapped the front end for the Fatman Fabrications Stage 2 kit. Was a little tricky to get fit together, but after a few phone calls and emails with Fatman, I'm quite happy with what I have now. (Don't mind the tire/fender distance, as I have them on 1.5" spacers just for mockup, and there isn't any springs in the front end just yet until she's fully loaded). The motor is mounted, but I need to fab a nicer trans mount than the one I have in there right now. I've swapped the rear, but in the process of making new leaf spring brackets for the bigger diameter rear end. Ordered new shocks and brakes for the rear. I need to pull everything to put some final welds on this portion, and I picked up a new rear pan and side skirts that I need to get fit in before I remove the body from the frame for blasting/painting. Oh, and I need to figure all of my pedals and firewall before body removal. 

Thanks to everyone here, for all of your help thus far. 

 

 

 

[DJ194950]

Does that newer HD rear axle have that fitting and hose for some type of air locker or what??

 

DJ

[cturboaddict]

It's a limited slip. 

32 minutes ago, DJ194950 said:

Does that newer HD rear axle have that fitting and hose for some type of air locker or what??

 

DJ