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cturboaddict

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Everything posted by cturboaddict

  1. The flat washer is SUBSTANTIALLY larger. It does not fit under the body mount bracket at all. I'm attmepting to contact Mopar Pro on ebay about this to find out what the deal is. The molded rubber washers are great and fit perfect.
  2. Ebay from Moparmall. Around $175 shipped with taxes to my door.
  3. So, I went ahead and bought the body mounts. Can anyone clue me back in on where the large flat rubber goes? Between the top of the molded mount and the bottom of the body? Or under the molded rubber mount on the bottom?
  4. I'm digging through McMaster Carr right now, and I can get plenty of rubber washers that will match up to the flat ones. The molded rubber that drops into the body mount is the problem. I could always use a "tube sleeve" rubber grommet in the hole, and a thick rubber washer in it's place for SIGNIFICANTLY less than the price I'm seeing. Do you think the GM mounts was referenced here?
  5. WOW those body mounts are EXPENSIVE.
  6. Much appreciated!!!! That should handle it. Does the body get sandwiched between Rubber washers as well? Or is there a rubber washer UNDER the body, and a steel washer on the inside?
  7. Just finished painting the underside of the 37 Plymouth P4. Finishing up some brake lines/fuel lines while I have the body off. I dug out my old body mounts, and started scratching my head with a few questions. Please keep in mind, this is not a period correct restoration, more a restomod. #1 Is there a source for the body mounts or an alternate method for using rubber washers to give these body mounts a new life? #2 What is the proper configuration and location for each body mount? (from inside: Bolt/washer/rubber washer/Floorboard/formed rubber grommet/body mount hole/washer/nut) Anyone have a diagram? #3 Some of mine had a stud on them too, any ideas as to it's location? (I really should of documented this during disassembly)
  8. I did American Collectors insurance through usaa on my 66 mustang. Only $150 a year. I've been pretty happy with them so far.
  9. I've heard the same as well. Pretty much everyone uses Hagerty that I talked too.
  10. I've got the almost same on too. Lokar makes a very nice product.
  11. It's more than capable. I was running out of room to have the frame beside the body plus my 66 mustang project in the garage. So, I'm leaving the doors on now until I get it back down on the frame. I'm going to throw some steel saw horses underneath as well just to be sure, I trust it. But I always try and be extra safe. Hoping she's not up there long regardless. But I need to get everything fit on the frame first before I bring her back down. So, we'll see.
  12. So, I was digging my brain how I could do this without buying a lift. I need to be able to get working on the underside of the car and wanted a way to roll the frame out from underneath. At the same time, I didn't want a gigantic body cart that couldn't be broken down. So, I designed this 4 leg adjustable system where each leg can raise quite a significant amount (4' clearance under car), and the body mounts slide/adjust to varying widths. You can adjust all the leg locations, and raise/lower the small body mounts as well. With a cherry picker on the front and some jacks/blocks in the rear... I was able to assemble my "cturboaddict 2000 body dolly premier" between the frame/body. Now, I can just lift the front and repin the legs at a higher height and roll the frame right out from under the body.
  13. LOVE THOSE RIMS!!! Where did you get the tank straps from? I broke one today removed the old tank.
  14. Mine is a 37 P4 Door Sedan Humpback, I'm assuming it's the "touring sedan".
  15. I'm searching for a new rear trunk lid for my 37 P4 Sedan Humpback. Will one from a 37 Desoto 4 door Humpback be the same?
  16. I love this thread bud! Showing me how to put together our 37 Plymouth. I'm sure I'll have weatherstripping questions here soon. I need to update where I am on my build thread too. Keep em coming!!
  17. Window crank mechanism is available at thisolecoupe.com for $425.
  18. Well, It's time to pull the doors and address the hinges. I've got some concerns and was hoping some of you guys could help. 1. What size Phillips is needed for the door hinge bolts? 2. Any tips to get them free without total anarchy? 3. Is there any replacement hinges our there? 4. Best place to get new pins if the hinges aren't available? 5. Looks like the door side of the hinge is riveted to the door??? Or are there internal nuts on the door side for the hinge? Any and all tips would be greatly appreciated. The doors have to be slammed currently to shut, and I'm hoping the disassembly/cleaning/painting/repair process can get them to close smoothly.
  19. I haven't updated photos in a bit. But currently. I have a Fatman Fabrications Front end installed (mustang ii type) with power steering rack. Ford Explorer rear end swap with new leaf springs. A 1999 5.3liter LS motor and 4l60e motor has been installed. Had to push the firewall back to get it all to fit. Aftermarket Summit steering column ties into the power steering rack. It'll have AC and powersteering, but the rest should be the same. Neaering pulling the body off of the frame to get the frame blasted/coated. LOVE YOUR 4 DOOR!!!!!!!!!
  20. I'm at 7/8" difference after they have sat and multiple jumping/bouncing sessions. When I pull the body, I'll give it a good overlook for squareness. But I may have to adjust the passenger side only to get it to set right. Oh well, all in the fun of restoration.
  21. Received. But If by chance you could send me the whole thing, that would be great. I'll send you my email in PM.
  22. Shocks are not attached. Dont have the factory service manual. Shackles swing when bounced. It just returns to the higher height on the passenger side only.
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