Newtons law

[49wind]

Hello all!

 

So...as the title states...newtons law...anything that can go wrong will go wrong. 

 

I have a 1949 Chrysler windsor. 

 

I've been doing some much needed maintenance. So today was the rear shocks. Took off the tire no issues.  (Added note... I had no idea lug bolts were reverse threaded!) 

 

Anyway. I spray all the bolts with the secret spray (acetone and tranny fluid) let them sit. Put the breaker bar on the bottom nut.  And SNAP!

 

So the question is,  now what do I do? It looks like the shock mount is supposed to be removeable? Is it? 

 

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

[Plymouthy Adams]

5 minutes ago, 49wind said:

Hello all!

 

So...as the title states...newtons law...anything that can go wrong will go wrong. 

 

I have a 1949 Chrysler windsor. 

 

I've been doing some much needed maintenance. So today was the rear shocks. Took off the tire no issues.  (Added note... I had no idea lug bolts were reverse threaded!) 

 

Anyway. I spray all the bolts with the secret spray (acetone and tranny fluid) let them sit. Put the breaker bar on the bottom nut.  And SNAP!

 

So the question is,  now what do I do? It looks like the shock mount is supposed to be removeable? Is it? 

 

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

 

that sounds more like Murphy's Law....Newton said you will rarely fall on your feet, usually on your head or your butt....!!!  on the 49, does the lower mount stud attach on a bull nose looking piece?

Edited April 5, 2018 by Plymouthy Adams

[49wind]

Fair enough Plymouthy Adams!

 

I ran outside and snapped a photo.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Time for a sharp chisel to split the nut. Preferably an air chisel. Or a blue tip oxy/acetylene torch.

Then find another stud off a parts car.

[49wind]

 

5 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

Time for a sharp chisel to split the nut. Preferably an air chisel. Or a blue tip oxy/acetylene torch.

Then find another stud off a parts car.

 

 Yea that's what I was leaning towards.  But does the whole stud unscrew from where it is? Behind the nut I mean?

[Plymouthy Adams]

this listing should be of interest to you......

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shock-Mount-Stud-Bolt-on-Style-Zinc-Coated-Mounting-Each/263522274484?hash=item3d5b26ccb4:g:RA4AAOSwYcZald~Q&vxp=mtr

 

[49wind]

3 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

this listing should be of interest to you......

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shock-Mount-Stud-Bolt-on-Style-Zinc-Coated-Mounting-Each/263522274484?hash=item3d5b26ccb4:g:RA4AAOSwYcZald~Q&vxp=mtr

 

 

I watched a you tube video of a guy with a jeep.  He used these

 https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-15530-31001.aspx

 

Same thing! 

 

If I cut the nut off, will the rest unbolt?

[Plymouthy Adams]

I would have to go out in the barn and crawl under my car to look at that particular style perch........am back.......I did not get a clear view but by looking it seems the stud will unscrew from the bullnose of the perch.  I would recommend a couple heat cycles with a torch to ensure that any rust bond is broken by the heat....

[49wind]

 I hope you are right! I hope to attack it over the next few days! Thanks for your help plymouthy adams! Much appreciated!

[Plymouthy Adams]

maybe someone here can look in the parts books, section 17.  My only hardcopy parts book stops at the 48 model as does my Streamline book....

[Plymouthy Adams]

in the absence of finding it in a book....I went back out with a flashlight and peeking in from the rear, the area between the axle tube and the perch you will see a large steel button and closer look should reveal the threads of the stud just a thread or so longer than the button.   The button and the perch should be as one unit during fabrication and the stud will unthread.  Again...as you had little trouble breaking the front step down threaded section...do ensure you heat this very good at least twice prior to any real muscle.  Good luck..take your time...so far I have never seen a penetrating oil out perform the blue flame...

[Dodgeb4ya]

Yes it is a stud....

[Plymouthy Adams]

thanks Bob.....pulling the fat out of the fire once again with a valid picture.....

[DrDoctor]

   

Edited April 11, 2018 by DrDoctor

[RobertKB]

21 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

 I would recommend a couple heat cycles with a torch to ensure that any rust bond is broken by the heat....

 

I would add to that, when everything is heated is to beat upon the end a bit. Heat and vibration do wonders to loosen up a bolt. Looks like a large pair of vice grips might help as well. Been there and done that.

[49wind]

UPDATE:

 

Well after a couple heat cycles, I couldn't get a wrench on the nut to try to break it loose.  So I cut off the length up to the nut.  Then I was able to get a 7/8ths impact socket and a breaker bar on the nut. Gave it a heat cycle again. And put a little pressure on the breaker bar.  And I felt it move! Heck yea! Put some more pressure on the breaker bar....SNAP! twisted off right behind the nut. Well I didn't get it out...now I'm just gonna have to drill it out.  

 

Oh well at least I tried.

 

And the heat cycles worked great on the front shocks!  No problems!!! Took 15 minutes to swap both sides.  I haven't tried to do the rear passenger side.  I suppose I'm a little gun any now. 

 

But the 49 windsor needed new shocks for sure. I was able to compress the fronts and the one rear easily... And it's been 4 hours and they haven't rebounded back.  

 

I'll post again if the job gets completed this weekend.  It's cold up here in north dakota.  Almost the middle of April and they are talking more snow. BOO!!!!

[Plymouthy Adams]

when bring up yet another old adage.......when it rains, it pours.....hang in there...you will get it

[49wind]

Well sure! Now all that is stopping me us about 1/2 inch of steel.  Oh and some old under coating. Haha that might be the other reason why I haven't tackled the tops yet....i don't know if I'm reason to light the car aflame just yet!

[49wind]

UPDATE- 

 

I lucked out. Got brave tonight and attempted to loosen the top shock mount bolts.  And they loosened right up.   One side the nut had to cut through the rust. But it came off pretty decently.  The bottom shock mount on the passenger side.  The nut striped on the bolt.  So I had to cut it off too. Now I'm stuck again.  Gonna have to drill it out.  

[49wind]

Got the crusty broken lower shock mounts out.  Bought the dorman 31001 universal shock mount studs. But the stud part of it was way to short

 Could only get 3 or 4 threads to bite.  So...... thank goodness for an angle grinder!!!

 

Edited April 13, 2018 by 49wind
Different picture

[Lloyd]

 

On 4/5/2018 at 11:01 PM, 49wind said:

UPDATE:

 

 Gave it a heat cycle again. And put a little pressure on the breaker bar.  And I felt it move! Heck yea! Put some more pressure on the breaker bar....SNAP! twisted off right behind the nut. 

 

Oh well at least I tried.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I’ve found trying to remove a bolt or nut it helps to loosen till it stops then tighten it back up. Blow the threads off. Maybe a wire brush then blow the threads off. Loosen again trying to go a little more. Then tighten. Back and forth. 

Turning it straight off can well snap the bolt. Even if it budged a little. 

[RobertKB]

13 hours ago, Lloyd said:

 

I’ve found trying to remove a bolt or nut it helps to loosen till it stops then tighten it back up. Blow the threads off. Maybe a wire brush then blow the threads off. Loosen again trying to go a little more. Then tighten. Back and forth. 

Turning it straight off can well snap the bolt. Even if it budged a little. 

 

This is what I try to do when working on stubborn nuts and bolts. Work back and forth and lube(PB Blaster for me) the parts and slowly work the nut loose. If it reaches a point where I figure I am going to damage or break something, I then apply heat and continue with the process.  Tapping on the parts also helps to loosen the rust holding the parts together. Lots of patience is the key.   Works nearly all the time.

[49wind]

60% of the time.... it works every time.  Ha ha