Parts for disc brake conversion

[Roundeye67]

Im getting ready to buy the extra parts to complete a scare bird disc brake conversion. I was going to order everything off of rock auto, what brake hoses do I use? Also is the rusty hope disc brake conversion cheaper?

[Douglas]

14 hours ago, Roundeye67 said:

Im getting ready to buy the extra parts to complete a scare bird disc brake conversion. I was going to order everything off of rock auto, what brake hoses do I use? Also is the rusty hope disc brake conversion cheaper?

Hello roundeye. I put the scare bird on my Plymo. Found a guy on eBay that made the lines up using 3/16 steel braded hose. Think we went with a 16” line. I’ll shoot you his info when I get home this evening. 

[Douglas]

9 hours ago, Douglas said:

Hello roundeye. I put the scare bird on my Plymo. Found a guy on eBay that made the lines up using 3/16 steel braded hose. Think we went with a 16” line. I’ll shoot you his info when I get home this evening. 

Hello again. Nick is in Michigan. One man business for 30 plus years and easy to work with. I also pulled the check valve out of the stock master cylinder and put a 2lb residual valve for the fronts and a 10lb valve for the rear if you’re running drum. Hope this helps. 

[Roundeye67]

Thanks greatly appreciated. 

[pflaming]

I bought  hoses that fit the calipers recommended by Rustyhope. Bought them at NAPA. I like local service. My second kit from him. 

[Uberchin]

Can anyone give me an approximate cost of the conversion; including the change in valve proportioning. Thanks.

[pflaming]

What you see in the picture are most of the  parts required for a Rustyhope conversion.  The  parts in the picture cost me $256.00 +\- , add the kit $215 and some additional parts and my Rustyhope conversion cost me around $515.00. I had three bids on the required parts, two at $340 +\- and one at $256 so shop around. I'm not certain what my Cherokee MC and valve so add that also. I did all the work on the new lines as well.It is not an expense, it's a safety investment. IMHO 

Edited December 21, 2017 by pflaming

[Uberchin]

Thanks `pflaming` that answers a lot for me. I think that is a reasonable price to add more safety into the vehicle. Is it necessary to re-proportion the valving for the disc brakes or can it be left stock? Thanks

[pflaming]

It CAN be stock, but it is ill advised. Few do from what I've observed. I would guess that the size, length, etc of the lines were originally engineered such that the front and rear were proportioned. The calipers alone would probably negate the original. There are members who can answer this much, much better than I can.  This answer is an unstudied opinion. 

 

[Roundeye67]

Since im going with the rusty hope kit im going to need to get some 16" wheels. I found some jeep liberty wheels with tires for $75, does anyone know if these will work temporarily?

[pflaming]

You don't have to go with 16" rims. I put my stock 15" rims on my Plymouth just last week.

 

Edited December 29, 2017 by pflaming

[Roundeye67]

Good to know...I thought I read somewhere I needed to use 16" wheels.

[Greg51T&CWagon]

Jumping in, Considering doing this on my wagon. Does anyone run modern discs with the Vacu-ease booster? My wagon has both a vacu-ease and a later 50s chevy vac booster-instead of fixing the vacu-ease they added the chevy piece. BTW I haven't got around to pulling a wheel yet to see if i have period disc brakes. It's too darn cold right now to mess with it. Waiting for warmer weather.

[Roundeye67]

What style lugnuts do I use with the disc brakes?

[pflaming]

Open, closed, zinc, chrome whatever has the correct thread. 

[Roundeye67]

The had open and open bulge which has the taper. 1/2-20 right?

[Roundeye67]

One last thing... ill prolly go with an explorer rear with discs. I was going to run a dual master cylinder, not sure what I need as far as proportioning valve or residual valves or if I need anything else to make it work with my brake pedal. Im looking on speedway and see alot of different stuff.

[Branded]

You need to install residual check valves anytime the master cylinder is lower than the wheel cylinders to keep brake fluid from gravity feeding back to the master cylinder. Use 2 lbs valves for disc and 10 lbs valves for drums

 

 

Edited January 3, 2018 by Branded

[pflaming]

The master cylinder shown is a 98 Cherokee Wrangler, high profile reservoir. There is a low profile model that I may yet change to. The proportioning valves mount along side the MC. This arrangement is one of the simplest I've seen. I have it on my truck, works great. 

Edited January 3, 2018 by pflaming

[rumble48]

3 hours ago, Branded said:

You need to install residual check valves anytime the master cylinder is lower than the wheel cylinders to keep brake fluid from gravity feeding back to the master cylinder. Use 2 lbs valves for disc and 10 lbs valves for drums

 

 

I have wondered about the check valve requirement, I have done the rusty /scarebird mods to my 48 coupe, and am very pleased, but I can feel some drag from the the front after applying and letting off the brakes, and have wondered a time or two about removing the residual from the front....  I read in the past regarding similar comments from other folks.....

comments?

[Plymouthy Adams]

Rumble 48, in doing this mod, and installing the residuals, did you first remove the residual from the original or replacement master cylinder?  

Edited January 3, 2018 by Plymouthy Adams

[Branded]

59 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

Rumble 48, in doing this mod, and installing the residuals, did you first remove the residual from the original or replacement master cylinder?  

Also make sure you have the master cylinder push rod the proper length. If it’s to tight and keeps any pressure on the master cylinder piston it will cause dragging when calipers and fluid starts to heat up.

Edited January 3, 2018 by Branded

[pflaming]

Branded yes. I measured what I thought would be the rods correct length. Then I put a tight fit hose sleeve over the first push rod, then a stub rod into the end of the hose to complete the length plus some. Then I applied pressure with the pedal to get a nice fit, I removed both rodsm measured the distance and welded on a rod stub that was 1/16th inch shorter. It fits perfect. The brake spring keeps it snug but cannot move the master cylinder plunger. Just my two silver penny's worth. 

[rumble48]

19 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

Rumble 48, in doing this mod, and installing the residuals, did you first remove the residual from the original or replacement master cylinder?  

Plymouthy....  no.    I used an AAJ provided chevy master and AAJ bracketry, residuals, & adjustable proportioning valve without any other mods other than the disc. front. As I said, it all functions and stops fine, but with the window down I feel/hear some dragging from the front which seems to dissipate quickly. 

 

Also not a brake expert, but from discussion and reading, isn't the issue (need for residual) whether the master is above or below the calibers?  So I have wondered if this wouldn't be affected by the stance of the car?  ie. lowered some degree....   which mine is....  but not dumped.

 

as you might have already have determined.... I might be telling you more than I know....

 

[Branded]

I don’t think by lowering the stance of the vehicle that you going to change the elevation relationship between the master cylinder and calipers unless, you stand the car on end of coarse. Disc  brake pads will slightly rub the rotor at all time and some cheaper pads are noisier than others.

Edited January 4, 2018 by Branded