dodgemex53 Posted October 28, 2017 Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 Hello friends I ask your help to see If can sell me some starter mch 6106 to be able to finish my project of my b4b 1953 Let me know and thanks Ramon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted October 28, 2017 Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 Start a thread in the "parts wanted"...your best bet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsartain Posted October 28, 2017 Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 If you want brand new and try these guys where I bought mine from. http://www.filterspro.com/detail.cfm?part=2027675 $204.61 with the core charge included in the price. O'reilly Auto carries it as well under Part # 91-06-1821 but their price is $75 higher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branded Posted October 28, 2017 Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 (edited) Error Edited October 28, 2017 by Branded Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgemex53 Posted October 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 Ok thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsartain Posted October 28, 2017 Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 (edited) 2 hours ago, Branded said: Here's a 6106 starter https://www.ebay.com/itm/162720054380?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649 Ebay page says it's a MCH 6101, There is quite a bit of difference. The MCH 6106 has a lever engaged bendix. The MCH 6101 has a centrifugal spring loaded bendix. There is some interference on the 218 and 230 engine where the rear of the 6101 starter hits the oil return tube from the Oil Filter. It's really a tight near impossible fit but it can be forced. the MCH 6106 is about an inch shorter. If you are wanting to go with a key start, then the 6101 is your starter but you will need a 6 volt solenoid for your 6 volt system or 12 volt solenoid if you're daring to use the starter on a 12 volt system. At $40, my guess is you're looking at a core but at a fair price. Edited October 28, 2017 by johnsartain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branded Posted October 28, 2017 Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 Sorry , I miss read the post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsartain Posted October 28, 2017 Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 1 hour ago, Branded said: Sorry , I miss read the post. No problem, I actually have both starters. I bought new for both, 350 for the MCH 6101 and 205 for the MCH 6106. I may switch over at some point and go with the key start. I knew from my own experience about the clearance issue as the first starter I had was the 6101. I had problems and found out i had the wrong flywheel ring gear on the engine and it wouldn't mesh with the starter. I bought the other because it was actually the correct starter. Both have the same diameter, tooth size and number. and will interchange with the exception of clearance with the oil tube. Just be careful getting the starter mounted that you don't damage the oil tube. I removed mine and made another that had a little different curve to it but it still touched the flare nut and fitting while mounting the starter. I bent the fitting and had to replace it. To keep from bending it again, I screwed a flare nut without tube in while mounting the starter, I tightened the fitting and turned the flat of the fitting toward the starter, and replaced the nut with the tube afterward. It still hit but it wasn't as bad and was easier to get mounted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted October 29, 2017 Report Share Posted October 29, 2017 (edited) I copied Don's oil gauge idea so I have no issues with the starter. I like the oil guage on the block, it eliminates going to the inside to check after an oil changes, etc. The gauge is a bit askew in the photo, since it is on a T fitting, the line into the cabin comes off the top of the T. Edited October 29, 2017 by pflaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsartain Posted October 29, 2017 Report Share Posted October 29, 2017 My interference issue was at the back(brush end) of the starter. Where you have a plug for the oil gallery is where my line for the oil filter connects. below that is the return to the pan via the back side of the oil pressure relief valve where the return line connects. That is the line that hit the back of the starter. I don't see the oil filter on yours, Paul. Have you relocated it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brent B3B Posted October 29, 2017 Report Share Posted October 29, 2017 On 10/28/2017 at 7:03 AM, johnsartain said: No problem, I actually have both starters. I bought new for both, 350 for the MCH 6101 and 205 for the MCH 6106. I may switch over at some point and go with the key start. I knew from my own experience about the clearance issue as the first starter I had was the 6101. I had problems and found out i had the wrong flywheel ring gear on the engine and it wouldn't mesh with the starter. I bought the other because it was actually the correct starter. Both have the same diameter, tooth size and number. and will interchange with the exception of clearance with the oil tube. Just be careful getting the starter mounted that you don't damage the oil tube. I removed mine and made another that had a little different curve to it but it still touched the flare nut and fitting while mounting the starter. I bent the fitting and had to replace it. To keep from bending it again, I screwed a flare nut without tube in while mounting the starter, I tightened the fitting and turned the flat of the fitting toward the starter, and replaced the nut with the tube afterward. It still hit but it wasn't as bad and was easier to get mounted. I had that "key start" starter on my B4D then I bought it, I pulled it. I prefer the foot start myself but yes, it was tight against the oil tube, fortunately it doesn't take much to pull the canister and lines to install or remove Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted October 29, 2017 Report Share Posted October 29, 2017 If memory serves me right, there is some debate about the amount of oil that is pumped through the filter. Some contend that Fram was the greater benefactor of this early design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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