Build Thread for our 47 Dodge Truck

[wayfarer]

On ‎9‎/‎3‎/‎2017 at 1:08 PM, 56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu said:

Umm this is the first we have heard those names is it a website person or store 

Wildcat:  Ed Yost and crew here.

Big M:    John and crew here.

 

[56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu]

7 hours ago, wayfarer said:

Wildcat:  Ed Yost and crew here.

Big M:    John and crew here.

 

thanks wayfarer 

and boy am i glad that you and many others on here, has way too much spare time on your guys' hands.......thank you again and all the others that contribute to others build treads

Edited September 6, 2017 by 56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu

[56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu]

oh historical vehicle license plate is just a specialized plate that people can get thru the dmv. nothing special about the truck only that its our 46 dodge  2 ton truck

 

anyways ive got a few questions concerning the oil canister, does it matter which line goes to the side of it or the bottom? cause on better inspection of the lines it seems that one of the trucks has it one way, and the other has it reversed(if the canister was there to begin with). came to this conclusion by the way the lines were bent, or are there different canisters with different positioning of the connectors?

[56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu]

after getting these trucks ive found it hard to take off the lug nuts off the rear axle(the ones holding the outer rim). looks like im going to need to buy a bigger impact wrench but before i do that i wanna ask everyone whether theres an easier way? ive done tried with a breaker bar with pole for leverage and broke 2 adapters. also ive tried all the different lubes on hand drenched it over night to even a few days but still didnt budge. last thing thatbi tried was to heat them up a little in hopes that it would work, now im sore from all the straining. i hope someone has a better idea so ill check back in after a few days i need to just relax and recoup.....

[lonejacklarry]

4 hours ago, 56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu said:

after getting these trucks ive found it hard to take off the lug nuts off the rear axle(the ones holding the outer rim). 

I don't know about the bigger trucks but the smaller trucks have both left handed and right handed bolts depending on what side you are working.

[Dodgeb4ya]

To remove the rear outer 1-1/2" lug nuts a shot of good penetrant and prayer sometimes will do it.

If the inner square bolt that holds the inner rim to the hub starts turning before the outer nut breaks loose you have a big problem. Someone did not torque the lug bolts and nuts properly and enough!

You really need a 3/4" but preferably a 1' impact gun makes it quick and easy... this with 175 lbs of air pressure.

If ya work on the bigger stuff you need bigger tools!.

And yes the left side lug nuts are LH...right side RH thread.

Edited September 7, 2017 by Dodgeb4ya

[wallytoo]

bob (dodgeb4ya) is correct, you need at a minimum 3/4" drive tools for the big trucks.  i bought a six point impact socket for the lugnuts and a budd socket for the inner rear wheel.  both in 3/4" drive.  also bought a 3/4" impact wrench.

 

still, for initial removal of the lugs, you might find that a big 3/4" bar, with cheater pipe added for more leverage, works.  i also have an extension for these, which works because of the depth of the wheel mounting surface.

 

you will continue to break any 1/2" or 1/4" stuff, don't bother.

[56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu]

Well here is a quickupdate.....

   My husband has started to tear down our green truck. The cab is ready to be taken off the frame. He has also removed the radiator and front clip. He has also removed the rear axle and steering components. 

[56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu]

On 9/6/2017 at 10:30 PM, Dodgeb4ya said:

To remove the rear outer 1-1/2" lug nuts a shot of good penetrant and prayer sometimes will do it.

If the inner square bolt that holds the inner rim to the hub starts turning before the outer nut breaks loose you have a big problem. Someone did not torque the lug bolts and nuts properly and enough!

You really need a 3/4" but preferably a 1' impact gun makes it quick and easy... this with 175 lbs of air pressure.

If ya work on the bigger stuff you need bigger tools!.

And yes the left side lug nuts are LH...right side RH thread.

I guess we are going shopping for some new tools... 

[56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu]

11 hours ago, wallytoo said:

bob (dodgeb4ya) is correct, you need at a minimum 3/4" drive tools for the big trucks.  i bought a six point impact socket for the lugnuts and a budd socket for the inner rear wheel.  both in 3/4" drive.  also bought a 3/4" impact wrench.

 

still, for initial removal of the lugs, you might find that a big 3/4" bar, with cheater pipe added for more leverage, works.  i also have an extension for these, which works because of the depth of the wheel mounting surface.

 

you will continue to break any 1/2" or 1/4" stuff, don't bother.

I guess ill be needing the same type of tools then. Time to go shopping..... Maybe I should spend a little extra for better quality tools. Like tools with life time warranty for these bigger trucks because things seem to break faster with these bigger trucks.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Yep....

You can do it the hard way... add a pipe and wear yourself out if you do it wrong! I have done many with a pipe and proper lug tools

Or also use a torque multiplier $$

I prefer a 1" impact at my getting older time in life

[56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu]

since our last post on here i decided to wait on the bigger tools but only so that when we do buy them, it would be of good quality.  i figured buy cheap....buy often.  anyways i was still able to take off both front and rear axles and all that's left is the motor.  as for the front axle I've got it already attached to the other truck....but i forgot to mention i took them off without removal of the tires/rims. how i managed that one is another story.  so ATM all that's left is drive line, drive line bracket, replace fuel lines and radiator hoses. and connect all the throttle lines and make sure all the wiring is in order before we attempt  to try and start it up.....please if anyone has any suggestions on what should be done before we start it, feel free to share your thoughts on the matter..... i am having trouble putting on the clutch pedal onto the shaft. can anyone help me with this? on this truck the look we are going for is a 4x4 dually truck. the bed i have a special design that i'm going to do on it that has never been done before as far as i know but im going to keep it to myself for the mean time. sorry i just don't want anyone to beat me to it just yet. 

 

now on the green truck, does anyone know or has done a chassis swap on one of these type of trucks?  we are planning on doing a chassis swap on it but need a little help on what would be the best frame to do this with.  the image that we are going for is a truck with a over sized body on a smaller frame.  that's even if there's a difference on cab dimensions between a half ton and a ton 1/2.  we found a truck that we might get to put the green cab onto. but we are unsure if the cab will fit and if we will have to do a lot of fabricating if we use a 92 Chevy 1500. no matter if it wouldn't look over sized on it reason for getting the Chevy is that it is already c-notched with a brand new air bag system on it and also with a good running drive train. all that would be left is to put the cab onto it and the gauges.

 

                                                                                                                                    Thank you for any and all suggestions it will be greatly appreciated.

[wayfarer]

...since no one has jumped in on the chassis swap deal.......why on Gods green earth would you contemplate this? and onto a shiverlay frame no less? The pre-48 trucks are mighty narrow, and just about every following generation the width increased. I have had plenty of trucks along the way and even my 'old' 79-W150 seats 3 quite nicely.... my '47 barely has enough room for me......

The absolute best frame to use is the one already under it. It is highly unlikely that any late model frame will be easy to mount the cab and fenders on without a lot of fab work. The Dakota is maybe a decent place to start as there are some PH cabs on them.  If you must have a newer IFS then a partial frame graft might work out. Again, look at the Dakota.

And in full disclosure, the foregoing is strictly my humble opinion which is worth as much as you have paid for it......

[56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu]

 

On Wednesday, September 27, 2017 at 5:56 PM, wayfarer said:

...since no one has jumped in on the chassis swap deal.......why on Gods green earth would you contemplate this? and onto a shiverlay frame no less? The pre-48 trucks are mighty narrow, and just about every following generation the width increased. I have had plenty of trucks along the way and even my 'old' 79-W150 seats 3 quite nicely.... my '47 barely has enough room for me......

The absolute best frame to use is the one already under it. It is highly unlikely that any late model frame will be easy to mount the cab and fenders on without a lot of fab work. The Dakota is maybe a decent place to start as there are some PH cabs on them.  If you must have a newer IFS then a partial frame graft might work out. Again, look at the Dakota.

And in full disclosure, the foregoing is strictly my humble opinion which is worth as much as you have paid for it......

It was just a thought and with further research welve found out that the dakota is a good choice of frame but the best would be a s10(1980's) frame since they are quite narrow as well. As for now im going to store the original frame in my back yard for the mean time. The cab and the rest of the body is securely tucked away in the garage.

I had to make room in the garage and first thing i did to accomplish that was to get rid of the monte carlo in a very good trade.(my best trade as of yet) ive included pics of the trade since i was advised that i would need bigger tools. 

[56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu]

Thats a 120 gallon shop air compressor 3 phase. Basicly still new. 

Edited October 2, 2017 by 56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu

[56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu]

[56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu]

These are 2 1 inch impacts that i also got with the comprrssor. 

[56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu]

I also got a engine stand, cherry picker and a snapon 1/4 inch drive impact as well all for the car. 

[56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu]

Just want to give a fast update on our builds.........

    We found and got the s10 to use the chassis for our brown cab which it might end up being a rat rod.  Since it has the look already. The green one is going to stay as original as possible on the brown ones chassis since the green ones sheet metal is flawless with no dents and very very little surface rust where the paint had chipped. Yes it sounds like alot of work but my husband doesnt like wasting time doing nothing. Which is why we found the 2nd truck so fast. He likes to stay busy. God has been on our side blessing us with these builds. We also decided to put a 440 engine in the brown cab since we found a source for Dodge engines that is local to where we live. Like I said God is blessing us on making it easy for us finding these parts. More updates will come as we find time to post them since im working and he is busy dealing with our kids and working on the trucks. 

 

[56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu]

Have a little time to give a fast update as we are on our way home from the market.... 

The s10 is almost all the way torn down to bare chassis so that the modifications to it can be started. Things are moving along very good so far. Well we havent been asking questions lately because my husband has been doing his research.  

[56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu]

Sorry the garage is a mess just got done rearranging everything. Will be mocking everything up that needs to be done on the chasis soon. As far as cross members, motor mounts, bell housing mounts etc etc.... Just wanted to give a quick photo to give a update on progress. 

[johnsartain]

If frame strength is a concern in looking at a frame swap there are other/better options, IMO. You have the option to box the frame, welding metal plates to the open side of the frame. This is easily done for any shop with a welder and Plasma cutter, and is a common tactic of rat rodders and hot rodders on older vehicles. For Dodge vehicles, another common addition was a Dodge K-Member from a older vehicle in a junk yard. Speed parts suppliers such as Jegs even have new, modern, and lighter weight versions for under $500. You woll nee to add your own lower control arms, a frame, spindles, and springs to complete this setup but it give you a motor mount for whatever V8 engine you might decide to put in it.

[56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu]

4 hours ago, johnsartain said:

If frame strength is a concern in looking at a frame swap there are other/better options, IMO. You have the option to box the frame, welding metal plates to the open side of the frame. This is easily done for any shop with a welder and Plasma cutter, and is a common tactic of rat rodders and hot rodders on older vehicles. For Dodge vehicles, another common addition was a Dodge K-Member from a older vehicle in a junk yard. Speed parts suppliers such as Jegs even have new, modern, and lighter weight versions for under $500. You woll nee to add your own lower control arms, a frame, spindles, and springs to complete this setup but it give you a motor mount for whatever V8 engine you might decide to put in it.

Thank you for the information. Also we plan on putting a 318 into this one which is our 46. We plan on it loooking like a rat rod but not to the full extent. 

[56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu]

Just driving and we find another Dodge guy. Was nice to finally be able to talk to another Dodge lover. Always good to learn new things. 

[56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu]

we are to say that due to personal issues that happen throughout life that always seem to be beyond our control, we are forced to get rid of our truck. Something that we were hoping we would never have to do. And that's our 1947 dodge wfa-32 truck. a death in the family which was 2 years ago has left us in a situation where our home may not be our home for much longer. we just found out that our home is going to be sold and given to 3 different members of the family.  with that said we decided to try to trade our truck for a rv/travel trailer in case that day comes sooner than later . at least we would be prepared for it.......so we would like to give someone on the forums first chance at it before we list it anywhere else. the truck will come with a extra complete front end(both front fenders, head lights, emblems, hood, grill, hood ornament, radiator, radiator support and all misc brackets for mounting, also running boards and brackets) we can also include in the trade if value wise is more on your end, is add a 1969 vw bus rolling chassis or a 1949 Dodge b2b truck with no front end or a 1975 Fiat 124 sports spider. please note that the 69 49 and the 75 are projects.   what we are wanting in trade is nothing fancy or does not need to be new. Can be a pull behind trailer or 5th wheel or a rv. Just something that we can be able to live in(fully functional and current with dmv ) until we get everything situated and figured out. if you have any questions please feel free to message us we will respond within a day at the most.

 

                                              Thank you and HAPPY HOLIDAYS to you and yours from ours!