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Well into Season, but car refusing to cooperate.


mlozier76

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So, I pulled my engine a few months ago (5 or 6 really) to fix some leaks, repair a framehorn crack/bad repair, and tidy up the engine compartment a little while attempting to install the dual carb setup with the 94's I have with my Shanafelt dual intake.  Plagued with problem after problem, but at least the car runs now, though I am still needing to repair the distributor.  I cleaned out my water passages, and boy did they need cleaning.  I never should have been driving the car from the looks of it, LOL.  Don't trust that others took the time to work on the motor as needed when you buy them.  I did drive the car for a year and a half, but she got a little high on the temps when pulling grades around here, so I wanted to make sure she was cleaned out.  When I pulled the rear core plug, I found that it was completely plugged from rust and sediment, at least 3 inches in.  It took a while with a hot pressure washer to clean it out, but she finally spilled her guts and I got her back together. Put on a new water pump.  I got the engine painted and re-installed, went to start with new to me dual intake setup and dual exhaust, fired and started, but couldn't get to run reliably. I then pulled the dual intake off and put the old single barrel on, to find that she was still acting the same.  A little troubleshooting and found that the vacuum advance unit had rotted out, so I pulled one from my rebuild core and installed it.  I got the car to run and drove it home from my buddies shop after installing a hacked together repurposed dual exhaust system using his two post lift...kinda made it home.

  On the ride home, I was driving it up one of the hills (grade really) and she started to spit and sputter, then would clear up, then sputter when turned, but run good on flat ground... ARGGGH!  Made it home at midnight essentially, the night before my clubs car show.  Needless to say, went to show without my ride, but I'd already taken up my buddies 54 Chevy Wagon, so I had a vehicle to drive.  I took another look at it this past weekend, because the starter seemed to be giving me trouble.  Sure enough the bendix was not retracting on the starter and was staying engaged.  I also noticed that the motor would try to rotate backwards a bit when the starter button was disengaged.  I originally thought this was related to the starter problem, but when I pulled the distributor cap to aid in removal of the starter, I saw that the breaker plate appeared askew.  Sure enough it was loose from the bearing.  I pushed it back into place, still unsure how exactly it sits in there, I think it may be a pressfit, so maybe the tolerances are worn.  I have another old distributor I am going to see if I can make work, otherwise she may be down for a while until I can afford an upgrade to the Langdon 12v GM style Distributor.  A real shame, as I will then have 2 positive ground pertronix units i'll have basically wasted my money on, at least until I get the 1941 Military Dodge WC-12 and WC-21 that I have kind of  been told I can get when I can afford them.   I'm just a little frustrated that the car had been doing wonderfully until I decided to "freshen her up a little".  I almost think I never should have touched her, made her kinda irritable :)

 

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54 minutes ago, mlozier76 said:

I saw that the breaker plate appeared askew.  Sure enough it was loose from the bearing.  I pushed it back into place, still unsure how exactly it sits in there, I think it may be a pressfit, so maybe the tolerances are worn.

 Yes , it is a press fit and you can usually press them together with just your fingers , or a pair of pliers if the plates are out of the distributor . Sometimes the ball bearings between the two plates can use a little grease . If the plates don't want to stay together you might be able to crimp something a little bit for a better fit but they have to be free enough to turn on the bearings .  

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I did push it back in with my fingers, the car runs, but I was just a little concerned that finger pressing might not be enough, maybe it is then.  I was debating pulling the old distributor off my yet to be rebuilt enginge, but maybe i'll check it again tonight after I get the new battery put in.  There isn't anything that secures it in place?  The old distributor moves on the bearing, but does not come apart easily (I only used a little force with a screwdriver to test my theory on pressfit, but it didn't budge)

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1 hour ago, mlozier76 said:

I did push it back in with my fingers, the car runs, but I was just a little concerned that finger pressing might not be enough, maybe it is then.  I was debating pulling the old distributor off my yet to be rebuilt enginge, but maybe i'll check it again tonight after I get the new battery put in.  There isn't anything that secures it in place?  The old distributor moves on the bearing, but does not come apart easily (I only used a little force with a screwdriver to test my theory on pressfit, but it didn't budge)

The two parts  just snap together with the bearing in the middle .  I once bought about 20 of these plates that were NOS . Almost all of them had to come apart so that I could lubricate the dried out grease in the bearings . I gently pried the two parts apart with a screwdriver , lubed the bearings , and snaped them back together . Sometimes with just finger pressure and sometimes with pliers . 

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" Shanafelt dual intake "???

That's a new one on me. Have any photos?

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Your poor performance is likely to be a result of this distributor problem    bad ground to the loose plate  and don't overlook the condenser.

My newly restored Fargo came home on a roll back due to a faulty $3  part   which will mimic fuel problems and behave just as you described.

If you think the bearing is too loose in the plate, a little Loc tite will keep it in place.  I seem to recall that some  IGS distributors had two little tabs to hold the bearing down.  The newer IAT is a different design and actually gives better performance. ( mid 50 to 59) smaller cap and no counterweight on the rotor.

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18 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

same here KN ...I do recall Tattersfield

I even have one of those for my 251  DeSoto engine. The 3x1 version. Have one for my 6 cylinder 51 Ford,too.

 

 

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16 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

I did do an online search and found Shanafelt intakes....and we learn a new source...

Cool! Learn something new every day!

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I found out the problem last night.  I'm not exactly sure how it happened, but the two tabs that hold the bearing plate and bearing together in the distributor had come loose and as a result the bearing top plate was popping out of the bearing every time the vacuum advance tried to do its job. Simple enough fix, but hard to see in the car.  Drove the car last night to verify the fix.  Thank you all for the pointers.  Now getting carbon brushes and bushings, hopefully, to rebuild my starter.  After that, on to dual carb setup.... Getting closer.  I have about a month until our next show in Emmett, Idaho, about 5 hours away. 

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18 hours ago, knuckleharley said:

" Shanafelt dual intake "???

That's a new one on me. Have any photos?

Here are a few pics of the Shanafelt intake I have.  Unfortunately it is rare, as far as I can tell only made a handful in the mid to late 50's. From what I understand, he mainly made intakes for Fords and others, in the Pacific Northwest alongside others like I believe it was Edmunds.  This intake is really similar to Edgy's Speed shop design, and uses a similar carburetor from what I can gather.  I like it for the "what the heck is that" factor and the vintage speed effect or statement I'd like to make with my car.  There are some new things there, but I want to keep it fairly true to the era as much as I am able. 

20170429_222858 (480x640).jpg

20170429_222916 (480x640).jpg

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I like it. I like the split exhaust,too. Did you do that,or buy it?

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I was going to make it myself, but found that my second manifold was cracked.  I was getting ready to buy the Fenton one, when my buddy picked these up at the Portland Swap meet for me this year.  I believe these are from a 218, pickup, or military T-137 as the outlets are different than my originals.  I did build the dual exhaust from the headers back, by repurposing some 1-1/2" from a 1939 Chevy pickup.  Not the prettiest, but doing it on the cheap.  I also have a friend that has a waterjet I was going to have make flanges for a tube header, but wanted to run these old schoolers for  a while instead to see if I like the way they are.  Just from driving it yesterday I like the response from the more open exhaust.

Edited by mlozier76
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