55 Fargo Posted June 10, 2017 Report Posted June 10, 2017 Just now, bambamshere said: I will check. I just had mine going And still running really rough. Think I need to find someone to come over and set the points. Just to show me for first time and do the timing on this truck. Its super easy, open the distributor cap, and note the position of the rotor, next unbolt the distributor adjustment bolt, and pull out the distributor. Next on the bench install points, and set to .020 gap, change condenser too, and rotor cap the whole enchilada, unless all looks good. Reinstall, set timing, either with a light or a vacuum gauge, not much too it. How is the carb, fuel pump and fuel filter, is the gas tank clean? I am incredibly busy coming up, and don't live in Winnipeg, or possibly could give you a hand, but it might be a week or so... Here is the pic of the date stamp... Quote
bambamshere Posted June 10, 2017 Author Report Posted June 10, 2017 I'm kinda working outside with this truck because I rent a place in Winnipeg. The gas tank is clean. I changed the fuel filter the other day. Was thinking of putting some seafoam into the gas tank and see if that would help any. When I step on the gas quickly it seems to boog down a lot. Carb might also need to be adjusted a bit. Quote
bambamshere Posted June 10, 2017 Author Report Posted June 10, 2017 This is what it says on the plate on mine. Quote
bambamshere Posted June 10, 2017 Author Report Posted June 10, 2017 I sure would like to know if the # behind the TX315 is or just another number. Quote
55 Fargo Posted June 10, 2017 Report Posted June 10, 2017 That's a number I have not seen before. Maybe Piston Ring did that, not sure see what I can find out, it's not a Chrysler Industrial though... Quote
bambamshere Posted June 10, 2017 Author Report Posted June 10, 2017 Does anyone know if these flathead 6 engines came with soild lifters. Quote
Fernando Mendes Posted June 10, 2017 Report Posted June 10, 2017 3 hours ago, bambamshere said: I sure would like to know if the # behind the TX315 is or just another number. T=truck engine T314=236cid or 251cid T316=236cid or 251cid X=? 315=? source=Flat head six engine numbers that start with "T". Quote
Fernando Mendes Posted June 11, 2017 Report Posted June 11, 2017 On 07/06/2017 at 7:28 PM, bambamshere said: HeybI just did a oil change on my 56 Fargo it has a TX135. I was wondering if anyone new what type oil to use. I put 10W30 into it and it now sounds like the lifters are clacking pretty good. It was doing this before I did it. Did I put a 2 little weight oil in it. I know that the engine used to be in a combine. So maybe it needs a thicker oil. Quote
bambamshere Posted June 11, 2017 Author Report Posted June 11, 2017 Ok I got to figure this out. The truck runs like crap. Sounds like something is banging inside it. All sincw I did oil change not sure whats going on. When it is on low idle it sounds like it is going to shut down. Meaning it running to low. I was thinking that the distributor or coil might be behind it. Yea I know it has nothing to do with the oil. But I changed it from what was in there I was thinking of putting old coil back in tomorrow and see how it runs. It doesn't need a external resistor see if maybe I screwed something up. Quote
55 Fargo Posted June 11, 2017 Report Posted June 11, 2017 15 minutes ago, bambamshere said: Ok I got to figure this out. The truck runs like crap. Sounds like something is banging inside it. All sincw I did oil change not sure whats going on. When it is on low idle it sounds like it is going to shut down. Meaning it running to low. I was thinking that the distributor or coil might be behind it. Yea I know it has nothing to do with the oil. But I changed it from what was in there I was thinking of putting old coil back in tomorrow and see how it runs. It doesn't need a external resistor see if maybe I screwed something up. Did you pull sparkplug wires, is your firing order correct, vacuum lines on and tight. Oil just a coincidence, unless a valve is hanging up.... Quote
55 Fargo Posted June 11, 2017 Report Posted June 11, 2017 If you are running 12 volts, you either need a coil with built in resistor, or the type which requires an external ballast resistor, as simple as that. What kinda shape is the carb in? Quote
bambamshere Posted June 11, 2017 Author Report Posted June 11, 2017 Ummmm vacuum lines I haven't seen any vacuum lines. Mind you the guy who replaced the motor in this truck had 6 different sparkplugs in it so he could have taken something off it. I got told last night all he had to make sure the truck ran not good. So who knows what is wrong with it. Quote
bambamshere Posted June 11, 2017 Author Report Posted June 11, 2017 Carb is in good shape. Mind you I had to go around it the other day and tighten up all the screws. Because they were loose Quote
55 Fargo Posted June 11, 2017 Report Posted June 11, 2017 51 minutes ago, bambamshere said: Ummmm vacuum lines I haven't seen any vacuum lines. Mind you the guy who replaced the motor in this truck had 6 different sparkplugs in it so he could have taken something off it. I got told last night all he had to make sure the truck ran not good. So who knows what is wrong with it. Okay, here is the deal, you need to go through and verify all ignition, meaning spark plugs all the same NGKs or ACs, autolite, good high tension leads, points condenser, rotor, cap, coil, and ballast if necessary. Does your distributor not have a vacuum advance? how are the wipers operated? Next all fuel, which sounds like you covered. Set this up, tune and see what you have. Have you done a compression test yet? BTW I have 1955 dodge 1 ton truck rims here, 5 of them and a diff and frame and some other junk... Quote
bambamshere Posted June 11, 2017 Author Report Posted June 11, 2017 I changed all the ignition stuff. Sparkplugs, wires, coil plus installed ballest resistor there wasn't one on the truck. I bought a ignition coil that needed one. I rewired it all in and am wondering if I wired it right. For the fuel I have changef the tank and put a new fuel fiter inside the sediment holder or bowl. I haven't looked at the fuel pump yet. I have put done oil change and put new oil filter in. The only thing I have not done in the distributor was to put in new points and condenser. I was going to do that soon. Kind of ran out of money. Will do it soon. I did however set the points or at least try to. Never done it before so not sure if I did it right. Quote
bambamshere Posted June 11, 2017 Author Report Posted June 11, 2017 Those rims you have are they split rims or normal rims and if normal how much so you want for them. Quote
55 Fargo Posted June 11, 2017 Report Posted June 11, 2017 9 minutes ago, bambamshere said: Those rims you have are they split rims or normal rims and if normal how much so you want for them. have to check em tomorrow and let you know... Quote
Fernando Mendes Posted June 11, 2017 Report Posted June 11, 2017 17 hours ago, bambamshere said: Ok I got to figure this out. The truck runs like crap. Sounds like something is banging inside it. All sincw I did oil change not sure whats going on. When it is on low idle it sounds like it is going to shut down. Meaning it running to low. I was thinking that the distributor or coil might be behind it. Yea I know it has nothing to do with the oil. But I changed it from what was in there I was thinking of putting old coil back in tomorrow and see how it runs. It doesn't need a external resistor see if maybe I screwed something up. Try to turn the distributor in counterclockwise direction to advance its idle. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 11, 2017 Report Posted June 11, 2017 15 hours ago, bambamshere said: I changed all the ignition stuff. Sparkplugs, wires, coil plus installed ballest resistor there wasn't one on the truck. I bought a ignition coil that needed one. I rewired it all in and am wondering if I wired it right. For the fuel I have changef the tank and put a new fuel fiter inside the sediment holder or bowl. I haven't looked at the fuel pump yet. I have put done oil change and put new oil filter in. The only thing I have not done in the distributor was to put in new points and condenser. I was going to do that soon. Kind of ran out of money. Will do it soon. I did however set the points or at least try to. Never done it before so not sure if I did it right. are you running 6 or 12 volts? Quote
bambamshere Posted June 11, 2017 Author Report Posted June 11, 2017 I am running 12 volts that is what truck was when I got it. Ok so I set the distributor advanced it. Then set carb a bit. Before all that figured out how to set the points. But doing all that noticed a new problem. Don't you all love new problems. I took for drive and the noticed when I put it in 3rd gear it upchucks a bit. Kind of boogs down but like for a second and then goes. Quote
Fernando Mendes Posted June 11, 2017 Report Posted June 11, 2017 59 minutes ago, bambamshere said: I am running 12 volts that is what truck was when I got it. Ok so I set the distributor advanced it. Then set carb a bit. Before all that figured out how to set the points. But doing all that noticed a new problem. Don't you all love new problems. I took for drive and the noticed when I put it in 3rd gear it upchucks a bit. Kind of boogs down but like for a second and then goes. You can have a fuel pump problem. Quote
bambamshere Posted June 11, 2017 Author Report Posted June 11, 2017 How if it runs good in 1st and 2nd got to get it out for good drive to get into 4th. Quote
Fernando Mendes Posted June 11, 2017 Report Posted June 11, 2017 3 minutes ago, bambamshere said: How if it runs good in 1st and 2nd got to get it out for good drive to get into 4th. I am understa Quote I am understanding it is ok in 1st and 2nd shifting,but when you shift to 3rd and 4th it is lack of power,correct? Quote
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