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Posted

The engine in my 40 Plymouth had been sitting for years with the head off and was stuck even after letting it sit with Creeps oil. I got it out of the car. stripped it down to the short block.. The outside of the engine was covered with a thick layer of grease and oil. The cork gaskets on the valve covers didn't help either. I let the engine sit in a hot tank at work for about 6 hrs. Then with a good steam cleaning all the goo was gone. I was able to see the serial no. of the engine and found it's not the original. It's no. is P15*971863*. There's a number cast into the side of the block 11-30-48 which I think is a date code. Correct me if I'm wrong. Anyway. I started disassembling the shortblock and found that 5 of the 6 pistons were free. The only one that was stuck was #6. I used some 220 grit sandpaper and a scotchbrite pad and removed most of the rust that had accumulated above the piston. Sprayed penetrating oil in the cyl. above and below the piston. eventually was able to get the piston to move down into the bore. Another go round with the scotchbrite pad finished freeing the piston.  The once stuck engine is finally free!  The bearings in the engine don't look too bad. The crank has very little scoring.  I can't believe how heavy the crank is! Next step, remove the valve gear and cam and start looking for a reputable machine shop. Not many around anymore. Any suggestions?

Posted (edited)

I am having similar issues here in San Diego.  Due to my frustrations, I purchased a Boring Bar.  I am purchasing a second Boring Bar so I can machine small bores(like 201's).  I found a Black and Decker Valve Grinder machine. I have a hone from when I machined Harley Davidson Engines(I built engines when I was Employed at a Dealership), thankfully I kept it and never sold it.  When I was in my 20's I spent a few years machining and building engines and was trained by some of the best.  I also got rid of my central Micrometers and purchased some more expensive/accurate micrometers.  I also purchased a high quality Dial Bore Gauge.  I have the big boring bar disassembled so that I can get the base machined to be absolutely true.  My hopes of being ready to start machining, well, with any luck, may become a reality within a couple of years.  I will machine my engines first to be sure that no mistakes are made. After that, I will start doing my extra engines and put them up for sale.  Perhaps, if this turns out to be successful, I may decide to offer long block services to others.  But that is if I have the time and feel like it.  Machining is a dying art because it is so hard to find the very few people willing to pay for good work.  This is why a lot of my friends that owned machine shops shut down and retired....  The millennials aren't finding interest in the stuff we love.  Perhaps the last few of us will be able to pass it along to younger people, but only time will tell.  

My Mentor passed away a couple of years ago at 97 years in age.  He adopted me and taught me more about cars than any school ever could.  I will always miss him and love him for being the best parent that I never had.  Passing his teachings and knowledge down is my mission in life.  If guys like us don't do it, this hobby of hours will surely die out.

Enough rambling!  Sorry for boring you...  No pun intended...  But I hope that the machine shop you choose will have a torque plate and will do a stand up job.

Edited by classiccarjack
Misspelled something
  • Like 3
Posted

I'm in Milwaukee, Wi. Years ago when I needed engine machine work done I knew a couple local reputable shops. They're now gone. Not sure of the reputation of the few listed in the Yellow Pages. That's why I'm asking.

Posted
1 hour ago, 40plyguy said:

I'm in Milwaukee, Wi. Years ago when I needed engine machine work done I knew a couple local reputable shops. They're now gone. Not sure of the reputation of the few listed in the Yellow Pages. That's why I'm asking.

There may not be any large engine builders/machinists in your area that you know who can be relied on,but I can guarantee you that there some small shops doing machine work for drag racers,circle track racers,etc,etc,etc. IMHO,THOSE are the type of machinists you should search out,anyhow. None of the guys working at those shops is just punching a time card to pay rent and buy groceries while trying to do the minimum they can do without getting fired. They are auto enthusiasts,and there is a better than even chance many would jump at a chance to work on an obsolete piece of automotive history like your engine,and that's the kind of machinist you want because those are the guys that are into perfection. If they weren't,they wouldn't keep their jobs. You can get away with a lot of crap when slapping together a engine for a grocery getter,but you can't get away with anything when putting something together that might see north of 10,000 rpms on a regular basis.

Go to some of the local races and talk to the guys that seem to be winning or running at the head of the packs,and ask them where they get their engine work done.

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, knuckleharley said:

There may not be any large engine builders/machinists in your area that you know who can be relied on,but I can guarantee you that there some small shops doing machine work for drag racers,circle track racers,etc,etc,etc. IMHO,THOSE are the type of machinists you should search out,anyhow. None of the guys working at those shops is just punching a time card to pay rent and buy groceries while trying to do the minimum they can do without getting fired. They are auto enthusiasts,and there is a better than even chance many would jump at a chance to work on an obsolete piece of automotive history like your engine,and that's the kind of machinist you want because those are the guys that are into perfection. If they weren't,they wouldn't keep their jobs. You can get away with a lot of crap when slapping together a engine for a grocery getter,but you can't get away with anything when putting something together that might see north of 10,000 rpms on a regular basis.

Go to some of the local races and talk to the guys that seem to be winning or running at the head of the packs,and ask them where they get their engine work done.

You sir!  Are one sharp cookie!  Great advice, why didn't I think of that to pass along?  I actually did this same thing when I first moved to the places that I lived.... The problem here in SD, is that the best guy died from Cancer.  His son picked up the torch for a couple of years and wasn't really taking in much new work, then after he got caught up with the stacks of engines that needed to be finished, closed the doors.  As a kind jester to my loyalty and many jobs that I provided from my restoration business, he machined a engine for me for free and bought all the parts.  What a guy! This family business ran strong for over 40 years!  

His only competition stopped with the early stuff about a decade ago and now focuses on engines 1960 and later.  Not to mention the Imported stuff....  Bummer.  

But this is why I am flustered.  There is one guy in Escondido boring a 230 for a fellow HAMB'er.  I will meet up with the guy and measure the bores after completion.  I like to see two ten thousandths or less variance between out of round and taper throughout the bore to be happy.  I know that my standards are high, but I am a perfectionist to a fault.

Posted (edited)
On 4/9/2017 at 10:18 AM, 40plyguy said:

I'm in Milwaukee, Wi. Years ago when I needed engine machine work done I knew a couple local reputable shops. They're now gone. Not sure of the reputation of the few listed in the Yellow Pages. That's why I'm asking.

Check out Dave's Repair up in Allentown. He's a good guy with some good stories of building flathead Chryslers back in the day. I took my truck engine to him bout 10 years ago. Good work at very reasonable prices. 

As I recall he's on Midland Dr between 33 and Co Hwy D (Kohlsville exit) You can see his shop from 41, up on the hill along the east side of the highway. 

 

Merle

Edited by Merle Coggins
  • Like 1
Posted

Any luck finding a machine shop that you are comfortable with 40plyguy?

 

Posted

Thanks Merle. That's not too terribly far from where I live. Maybe an hour away. I will ck it out. I want to get the valve train out of the engine and remove all the core plugs and hot tank the engine one more time (hopefully Sat). This whole project that was on the back burner for so long has become an obsession with me. I'm having a lot of fun too. Thanks a lot for all the tips and encouragement. This website is the best!

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