triple carbs!

[normanpitkin]

hi,will this work on my 41 windsor?

[casper50]

is it for a 23" or 25" block?  Is it for a MOPAR flat 6?

lots of questions. If you can't give any more info we can't tell you if it will fit.

Sorry

Edited April 4, 2017 by casper50

[55 Fargo]

If its for the 25 inch engine the manifold will bolt on.

Your 41 Chrysler, does it have the M5 semi-auto trans or fluid drive and 3 spd trans.

If the latter, you need the special carb for the trans operation, if the 3 spd, no issues.

You of course will need the correct linkage, and some type of choke system, as the scisson electric choke most likely will not work on this of course.

Contact Tim Kingsbury on this website via PM for a lot more accurate info.....

This is a C28 with a vacamatic trans, so if this be the case, not sure this set-up will work, as you need the carb kick down switch etc...

Edited April 4, 2017 by Rockwood

[normanpitkin]

hi 

its an M5 semi auto with fluid drive ,25" block of course.Already have a manual choke and i think the kick down switch i have will work ,although to be honest i never use the kick down anyway. This set up came off a 42 with fluid drive and was running so i think it will work ,all the linkages are also there. I wonder if i used the current carb i have for one of these it will work? Or maybe that isn't necessary?

[55 Fargo]

In order for the semi-auto M5 trans to function correctly you will need to applicable car, for up shifts down shifts etc, kick down, it may work employing 1 carb to do this with the other 2 being regular carbs, I have no idea if that is possible.

Seriously PM Tim Kingsbury, he can advise you on the prospects of this venture....good luck, and 3 carbs is still better balanced than 1 or 2......

[1949 Wraith]

14 hours ago, normanpitkin said:

hi 

its an M5 semi auto with fluid drive ,25" block of course.Already have a manual choke and i think the kick down switch i have will work ,although to be honest i never use the kick down anyway. This set up came off a 42 with fluid drive and was running so i think it will work ,all the linkages are also there. I wonder if i used the current carb i have for one of these it will work? Or maybe that isn't necessary?

Your '41 with the vacamatic should shift as it is controlled by the variation of vacuum off the intake manifold, which you would have to tap on the triple.

Since you are not using the performance of your kick down function on the transmission why are you considering the tripple? You will loose the additional dashpot which aids in the hesitation on shifts, you will have to balance the triples, and it is still a fluiddrive with vacamatic.

The vacamatic system is a very interesting setup and unique. If I was to put triples on my car I would change to a normal clutch and transmission. Just my 2 cents

 

[normanpitkin]

Hi

thank you for the input ! Could I put my original carb with dash pot as one of the three ?

[1949 Wraith]

I would stick with 3 matching carbs. You would have triple carbs supplying fuel, so you could probably accommodate all scenarios.  

 

 

[normanpitkin]

I bought it and the exhaust manifold ,it will work eventually I am sure !

 

[55 Fargo]

Make sure you have all 3 matching carbs, good luck with your project..

Keep us posted with your progress

[normanpitkin]

I shall ,thanks to all for the input ,I have also got an exhaust manifold as the stock one won't fit.The lack of a heat riser is a minor worry but I see plenty of folks just weld them shut ! my next question is ,will I need to make it a twin exhaust system or can I just Siamese them into one pipe ,to save costs ? Will it be better to bite the bullet and go for twin pipes all the way back ?

[1949 Wraith]

Bite the bullet and go with the and go with the dual exhaust to get the benefit of the better exhaust flow from the engine. Also you get the dual pipes out the back for the bling and sound. How are the restrictions there for flow through mufflers?

[classiccarjack]

Upgrading to a multiple Carburetor set up will be much more efficient if you also upgrade to a better flowing exhaust system.  There are a few paths that you can take.  One is to have headers made, second option is to buy a set of cast headers from Langdon's Stovebolt, the third would be to contact Tim Kingsbury and/or George Ashe to have a stock manifold split into dual exhaust.

Think of it as a air pump, the more air you bring in, will require more air to get out, in layman's terms.....  And more air flow equals more efficiency, which will yield more horsepower.

Just upgrading the exhaust alone makes a huge improvement....  I visited Reg Evans on Monday, he installed dual exhaust on his Dodge with a 230 in it, and claimed that the dual exhaust made it seem like his engine became a V-8 from the improvement in performance.  I thought that it also looked nice.  But you may need to make some fuel pump modifications depending on what arrangement you currently have.

But you must figure out how to get your transmission to work out.  Or go the easy path and convert over to a manual transmission.  

This is my opinion offering, I have personally modified six cylinders in other configurations and makes and always have had amazing results.  All sixes benefit from improved induction and exhaust flow.

Good luck, I hope that you get the transmission to cooperate with you.

[classiccarjack]

If you need an extra exhaust manifold to split, I may have one to offer.   Send me a Private Message.

[40desoto]

I believe this is an AOK George Asche triple intake.  if so do as many have recommended;  Tim Kingsbury for any advice and he also sells the dual exhaust setup for a very good price. 

[classiccarjack]

I am buying mine from Tim/George Also.  I will be sending money soon.

[normanpitkin]

I have the dual exhaust set up also on the way ,good news that  the manifold/carb set up is from Mr Asche ,I have only ever heard glowing tributes to his work.I await the arrival of both items with excitement ,the whole set up was taken off a 42 fluid drive windsor so it SHOULD work.Crosses fingers and legs.

[oldasdirt]

On ‎04‎/‎04‎/‎2017 at 2:27 PM, normanpitkin said:

hi,will this work on my 41 windsor?

Of course it will assuming your 41 Windsor has its original engine or a replacement 25 1/2" block.  In terms of carbs do you know what the carbs were built for ?

That is an AoK  intake which is Tim Kingsbury and George Asche and that linkage is made by George. No one makes nicer stuff.      As many have said if you need more information Tim Kingsbury is the guy I would email.

If you ever want to sell that, please send me a note!

 

On ‎06‎/‎04‎/‎2017 at 7:56 AM, classiccarjack said:

Upgrading to a multiple Carburetor set up will be much more efficient if you also upgrade to a better flowing exhaust system.  There are a few paths that you can take.  One is to have headers made, second option is to buy a set of cast headers from Langdon's Stovebolt, the third would be to contact Tim Kingsbury and/or George Ashe to have a stock manifold split into dual exhaust.

Think of it as a air pump, the more air you bring in, will require more air to get out, in layman's terms.....  And more air flow equals more efficiency, which will yield more horsepower.

Just upgrading the exhaust alone makes a huge improvement....  I visited Reg Evans on Monday, he installed dual exhaust on his Dodge with a 230 in it, and claimed that the dual exhaust made it seem like his engine became a V-8 from the improvement in performance.  I thought that it also looked nice.  But you may need to make some fuel pump modifications depending on what arrangement you currently have.

But you must figure out how to get your transmission to work out.  Or go the easy path and convert over to a manual transmission.  

This is my opinion offering, I have personally modified six cylinders in other configurations and makes and always have had amazing results.  All sixes benefit from improved induction and exhaust flow.

Good luck, I hope that you get the transmission to cooperate with you.

Hi Classic Jack -  I suspect you haven't actually put headers or Langdons header on anything ?  Langdons clearly are adapted from a chevy design and they don't  work with the stock fuel pump. I was definitely disappointed by them, and turned around and sold the set I bought. Headers made are not a terrible option. They tend not to last long unless you coat them and by the time you do that, your into them pretty deep. I  had a nice pair made by moose. Loved them, but 20,000 miles they were done.  After all that expense I opted for your option #3.  I bought a set of headers made from the stock exhaust.  It looks better, it fit better and with my Plymouth on a chassis dyno it had almost identical numbers to the Moose headers. If anything the edge was to the Asche units and they were 1/4 the cost of the headers I had made.  If you can get George or his boys to make you a set, that is the way I would go. I say if, because I called and talked to Rob a couple of weeks ago and it sounded as if George health is such that they are no taking on any new projects and for sure that triple is now sold out.  I had purchased one about 7 years ago and was hoping to get another 1 but they are sold out. It also looks like the costs of making them combined with George's health result in these intakes moving into the collector status. 

[classiccarjack]

42 minutes ago, oldasdirt said:

Of course it will assuming your 41 Windsor has its original engine or a replacement 25 1/2" block.  In terms of carbs do you know what the carbs were built for ?

That is an AoK  intake which is Tim Kingsbury and George Asche and that linkage is made by George. No one makes nicer stuff.      As many have said if you need more information Tim Kingsbury is the guy I would email.

If you ever want to sell that, please send me a note!

 

Hi Classic Jack -  I suspect you haven't actually put headers or Langdons header on anything ?  Langdons clearly are adapted from a chevy design and they don't  work with the stock fuel pump. I was definitely disappointed by them, and turned around and sold the set I bought. Headers made are not a terrible option. They tend not to last long unless you coat them and by the time you do that, your into them pretty deep. I  had a nice pair made by moose. Loved them, but 20,000 miles they were done.  After all that expense I opted for your option #3.  I bought a set of headers made from the stock exhaust.  It looks better, it fit better and with my Plymouth on a chassis dyno it had almost identical numbers to the Moose headers. If anything the edge was to the Asche units and they were 1/4 the cost of the headers I had made.  If you can get George or his boys to make you a set, that is the way I would go. I say if, because I called and talked to Rob a couple of weeks ago and it sounded as if George health is such that they are no taking on any new projects and for sure that triple is now sold out.  I had purchased one about 7 years ago and was hoping to get another 1 but they are sold out. It also looks like the costs of making them combined with George's health result in these intakes moving into the collector status. 

Tim put my order aside for me.  And I did receive the unfortunate news about George.  Tim told me about it a month or so ago.  

I visited Reg Evans and looked at his Langdon's Cast Iron Headers.  I have the exact same fuel pump that he has, and yes, they clear that style of fuel pump.  These so called Chevy designed headers, as you put it, are thick and don't have flow restrictions.  I have built my own personal headers throughout the years.  I wish that I had a TIG, so they weren't pretty by any means, and even though my headers weren't cosmetically appealing, they worked great.  The last set I created, well I admit, I was lazy and I used two different designed headers, and married them together.  I have had them on my car now for over 15 years with 60,000 + miles, no issues.  BUT, the set that I am talking about is on a Slant Six, not a flathead.  Definitely not the same engine.

I do take time to research things before I do it.  I have installed headers on not only Mopars, but other makes to. And I have done things that other guys told me was impossible.  If you feel the need to put me down and make accusations that I never installed a set of headers, that is fine with me.  If you knew me, you would feel differently about the subject.  And I am not going to fight with you about it anyway, I just don't do that kind of thing.

I will use the Langdon's in the future, and they will work for my application.  I have been tinkering with machines for almost 40 years now, and by no means claim to be the best out there.  Every day is a new day, and I have learned alot from a lot of different people.  Even from folks that are not mechanics!  I still see things that are outside of the box that just blow me away now and then.  I will admit that I have made mistakes, and I am certainly human.  I am terribly sorry that you are frustrated with this product, and I certainly can empathize...  

I also value your opinion, I try to learn different ways of achieving a more effecient goal.  Tim Kingsbury really speaks highly regarding George's split manifold's.  He wouldn't mention it if the idea didn't work and make power. And it's good to know that tubed headers may have a short lifespan.  

Please forgive me if I rubbed you the wrong way, that wasn't my intention.

[oldasdirt]

Hey classiccarjack ,    Were good.  No problem at all.  Were Reg Evans headers for the USA small block engine or for the Canadian big block engine, which is what the intake in question fits ? The small block ones are Fenton repro  and they are tight in terms of the fuel pump but work.  As others have reported on other threads, the new big block ones there is an issue. 

If you can make your own, your golden.  Most of us wish we could. Most of us cant ! 

Trust me I wasn't in any way, shape or form suggesting not to buy anything from Tom Langdon.  I am stating his big block headers are something I have purchased, they didn't work with a stock fuel pump. I briefly put them on with an electric fuel pump and reduced the pressure so I could try them.  I then send my original exhaust to George Asche to have headers made.   When I got them I pulled the Langdon ones off, put back my stock fuel pump, and put pipes put back on.  First thing I liked the looks for the originals made into headers. I much preferred the way they hooked to exhaust piping and how it exited towards the back of the car with out a sharp turn required by Langdon's.

I ran the car on a chassis dyno with Langdon's on and with George Asche's on. As I said they were almost identical. If anything the very slight edge in performance went to Asche's setup.  All of that and Asche's were a fraction of the price.  To each their own though.  

On tubed headers, if I was doing that again, I would get them coated by JetHot or a similar coating. That definitely would have made a difference in longevity.

Just one guys experience.  That doesn't mean I am right and your wrong. I have a PHD in being wrong ! 

Have a great day!

 

[classiccarjack]

Hello Oldasdirt,

No worries, I just am not the type that feels that fighting over a difference on opinion resolves anything.  When I was younger guy, in my twenties,  I had gotten cocky a couple of times,  and had to open wide to insert my foot into my mouth....  LOL  

When I owned my restoration business, I used to build for people that were very performance orientated.  At that time, for my customers, I have sent the headers out to Jet Hot to get the inside coated with what they refer to as a thermal barrier.  Then I would have Jet Hot coat the outside to suit the customers taste.

Having Dyno Facts is the best way to go.  I love factual research versus bench racing hearsays...  

If I can't find the factory Mopar split manifold's that came on trucks, I am definitely going to try out the Langdon's.  When I do this task, I will share what my findings are here.  If for any reason the Langdon's fall short, I will pray that George Ashe is fit as a fiddle, so he can split a manifold for me.

I won the small six lottery, and I have a set of Fenton's!  I rarely get lucky, and these gems cost me more than I would like to admit.  I feel safe to say that Speed parts are getting scarce for these engines.  And even tougher for the big Sixes.  If I ever get the opportunity to win the lottery (will probably never happen), I will call on the AOK boys to make a large amount of Manifold's.  And even Hire Tim to make the most efficient Large Six exhaust manifolds.  I can dream, right?

[55 Fargo]

Pretty sure my Dyno to the wheels on my truck would be 70-80 hp....LOL

Any of you gents, have any Dyno numbers on these engines?

Edited April 12, 2017 by Rockwood

[normanpitkin]

Good news all! It works perfectly ,the original carb in the middle and the outer two being matching carters.Runs like a train and will cruise at 70 ,top speed was still going strong at 85 when i ran out of road! Acceleration is brisk to say the least. Only slight problem is a small fuel leak from the original carb accelerator shaft but this may be curable with a float adjustment. In short it has transformed the car ,money well spent.

[1949 Wraith]

Glad everything worked out for you.

[oldasdirt]

2 hours ago, normanpitkin said:

Good news all! It works perfectly ,the original carb in the middle and the outer two being matching carters.Runs like a train and will cruise at 70 ,top speed was still going strong at 85 when i ran out of road! Acceleration is brisk to say the least. Only slight problem is a small fuel leak from the original carb accelerator shaft but this may be curable with a float adjustment. In short it has transformed the car ,money well spent.

What ever floats your boat, but why would you take 3 identically matched carbs and pull the middle one to insert a fluid drive carb ?  I am sure it works well, but changing the configuration to add in a non-matching third carb makes no sense.  Sorry