Busted_Knuckles Posted March 6, 2017 Report Posted March 6, 2017 First let me start this thread by saying its one heck of a great source of information for a newbie (well to the old Plymouth scene anyway) and I have gotten some helpful info for my new build. A little back story to start off, I just acquired a 48 Plymouth deluxe coupe in remarkably good condition all things considered. It has no rust to speak of for a car its age floors are great and body is in overall great shape even with the not so great installation of some repair panels but thats about all I have no front clip but I've located a pair of front fenders and a hood form one guy and a left rear fender from another but hey spring Carlisle is coming up. So I face all the normal what do I questions a lot of guys not restoring a car face. Upgrading steering , brakes and suspension with more modern components long before I drop in an engine. I have heard that some GM front sub frames will work but which one's? I have also heard that some guys have used the entire chassis form either an S10 or Dakota pick up. Both have wheel bases pretty equal to the Coupe which is the first hurtle the second is that the wheel track is the same as well. So although not a bolt in swap fitting the body to either chassis seems like a way to get all the modern upgrades one could want when building a street rod, so what do you guys think? Your thoughts and input are greatly appreciated Quote
casper50 Posted March 6, 2017 Report Posted March 6, 2017 Me personally, I'd stay away from swapping frames. Both, complete or front clip. On mine I just changed the shock locations in front, put new Moog springs in front and disc on all 4 Quote
dpollo Posted March 6, 2017 Report Posted March 6, 2017 If you have ever driven a 48 Plymouth you will find they drive very well as is. Some people like to modify the shock absorber mountings or add a heavier sway bar. For the era, they were a very well engineered car. 1 Quote
Busted_Knuckles Posted March 6, 2017 Author Report Posted March 6, 2017 Thanks for the input not that I'm totally cheap but ok I am cheap especially when I see the cost of these aftermarket kits its just plain stupid. The whole goal with this build is to build an affordable ride and get it on the road asap. Would you guys happen to know the part numbers for the Moog springs and disc brakes and sway bar? Quote
casper50 Posted March 6, 2017 Report Posted March 6, 2017 I got the rear disc kit from AAJ, front kit was scarebird. Both went on really easy. Springs were off of ebay for a dodge caravan I believe. It's been almost 3 years. The bracket to relocate the shocks I wouldn't pay for again. I have a homemade blueprint around here somewhere. I didn't change my sway bar. http://www.aajbrakes.com/ https://scarebird.com/ Quote
junkers72 Posted March 6, 2017 Report Posted March 6, 2017 Search plymouth Adams builds. I looked at a thread of his where he put a Dakota clip into a p15. If that's the route your thinking of going it's worth a read. Quote
wayfarer Posted March 6, 2017 Report Posted March 6, 2017 Stay away from the shiverlay parts swaps, the s-10 is simply too narrow for the car and it will look goofy. As mentioned, if you want to swap to a modern ifs then look hard at the Gen-I Dakota. Very doable and several benefits. Quote
rb1949 Posted March 6, 2017 Report Posted March 6, 2017 Waiting to install the Moog CC850 front coils.Best price, with shipping was Rock Auto. Ordered on a Wed, had them Thur. Stock brakes are fine. If MAJOR replacement were ever necessary, including drums, then I would consider an investment in disc. Quote
Busted_Knuckles Posted March 6, 2017 Author Report Posted March 6, 2017 2 hours ago, rb1949 said: Waiting to install the Moog CC850 front coils.Best price, with shipping was Rock Auto. Ordered on a Wed, had them Thur. Stock brakes are fine. If MAJOR replacement were ever necessary, including drums, then I would consider an investment in disc. Where did you come up with that part number? I checked one site and it said it will not fit a 48 Plymouth coupe? I dod know that a great many parts are interchangeable that never make the list Quote
Flatie46 Posted March 6, 2017 Report Posted March 6, 2017 I think you should use the stock clip. You've mentioned you would like to get it on the road ASAP. I Would think you could do a brake job quicker than replacing the whole front clip. The brakes on these cars were pretty good stock. Even with drums if done right I think they are fine. These cars aren't as heavy as you would think. I'm thinking I had read somewhere that my 46 Plymouth business coupe weighed 3188 LBS. (if I'm wrong on this someone chime in please) That's lighter than an S-10, that's why it doesn't take much to stop them and 100HP moves them well. They have a good ride and drive qualities about them. If you really want disk brakes,I would buy one of the kits. I would think you would still be way ahead if you subtract the aggravation of the clip swap. I've driven my 46 Plymouth, my sons 52 Plymouth (actually quite a bit it was once mine) and a friends 50 Dodge. All 3 were stock, all 3 drove very well. You asked which clip to use, I gave my opin. It's your car, build it to suite you. I wish you luck with it. Quote
dpollo Posted March 7, 2017 Report Posted March 7, 2017 Look up posts by 40plyrod on this forum or get hold of him He used his 40's stock suspension, lowered and with discs and relocated shocks. works very well. Quote
rb1949 Posted March 7, 2017 Report Posted March 7, 2017 Moog CC850 is Aerostar. A search will find ample discussion on their different applications and install. Quote
mrwrstory Posted March 7, 2017 Report Posted March 7, 2017 The phrase "Street Rod" jumped right out at me. My kinda guy! I started with a nice stocker with a shot rear-end. Installed a junk yard Volare rear (a Ford 8" would do) and added dropped spindles, disk brakes, beefy sway bar, and relocated shocks. Cut the springs to get it lower like the first pic. However, you must understand that getting "The look" means you must tolerate the idiosyncrasies of driving a lowered car. To me, it's well worth the shortcomings which I will explain if you are interested. Drove it with the flat 6 for several years with not a lot invested. Performance wise it was a "dog" but got a lot of strokes. Surprised the traditional Street Rod set because it was a great looking car. Now I gotta V8 and it was well worth the wait. Quote
Busted_Knuckles Posted March 7, 2017 Author Report Posted March 7, 2017 I can see I am going to be asking you a lot of questions if you don't mind I let you in on my plan, its top secrete...lol Quote
mrwrstory Posted March 7, 2017 Report Posted March 7, 2017 (edited) 2 hours ago, Busted_Knuckles said: I can see I am going to be asking you a lot of questions if you don't mind I let you in on my plan, its top secrete...lol Any time. Most of my reference is gone into the cosmos but I will share what I have and what I can remember. FYI my P15 now has a modern V8, overdrive trans and a new IFS. Check my thread Edited March 7, 2017 by mrwrstory up dated info Quote
Busted_Knuckles Posted March 8, 2017 Author Report Posted March 8, 2017 Thanks still learning my way around the site but I will, the IFS is just too out of reach right now but V8 and the R&P steering are pretty much a given, I will be using the rear out of a 55 Chevy springs and shocks that I got from a guy off the HAMB for $100. I may have to box the rear section of the frame but will know more once I get it in my shop. Quote
wayfarer Posted March 8, 2017 Report Posted March 8, 2017 The shiverlay axle will have a different wheel bolt pattern....consider changing to a late model Cherokee or Explorer. Quote
Busted_Knuckles Posted March 8, 2017 Author Report Posted March 8, 2017 Yes I am aware of the bolt pattern differences, that why they make unilug wheels or I can have the axle flanges drilled I've done it on race cars may times Quote
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