plymouth 1948 coupe build thread

[Cudan]

hi,

I started my plymouth 1948 coupe build, or better said first a disassemble project off body, chassis, engine and axles.

Today i lifted the body of the chassis, at the pront a pillar area where on both sides two hidden bolts ans i cut out a piece of the floor bodywork for reaching them, i think a former owner welded a new floor a reparation but did it not the right way  took a little time to find out the reason of not lifting .

I cleaned the chassis with high pressure water, the insie with a so called sewer rat ( an aid for the pressurewasher ) that did a good job, a lot of dirt, little stones and straw ( mice ) came out the chassis

Next job is to clean the cooling system of the engine, i will remove the plugs for better cleaning.

Dan

 

Edited November 5, 2016 by Cudan
more info

[casper50]

nice.  keep the photos coming

 

[rb1949]

Looks to nice to be tearing apart. I'd be driving.

[knuckleharley]

Looks to be a pretty clean body and chassis,so that's an advantage. Maybe you will be lucky enough to basically just be facing a clean and paint situation.

 

One thing is for sure,there ain't no backing out now no matter what you have found.

The reward will be all the driving you do and the enjoyment you will get out of it once it's done.

[Cudan]

hi,

 

it looks always better on the pics , mine also. Needs some welding on the body, they did some repairs with fiberglass,  i have to cut out the bad repairs.

The engine stood still for 7 years and needs TLC.

First goal is semi restoring like original for the ducth license registration, second is v8, powerstering, improving of the front suspension, other rear axle and lowering the body.

Dan

[knuckleharley]

18 minutes ago, Cudan said:

hi,

 

it looks always better on the pics , mine also. Needs some welding on the body, they did some repairs with fiberglass,  i have to cut out the bad repairs.

The engine stood still for 7 years and needs TLC.

First goal is semi restoring like original for the ducth license registration, second is v8, powerstering, improving of the front suspension, other rear axle and lowering the body.

Dan

Dan,you might want to consider driving it around with the stock suspension and engine for a short while before taking it apart to modify. You MIGHT decide it is ok to drive the way it is,and save a BUNCH of time and money.

[Cudan]

3 minutes ago, knuckleharley said:

Dan,you might want to consider driving it around with the stock suspension and engine for a short while before taking it apart to modify. You MIGHT decide it is ok to drive the way it is,and save a BUNCH of time and money.

correct, first i wil do only the things neccesary  for the dutch registration and as you mentioned I might decide to keep him original, you never know.

Dan

[knuckleharley]

Just now, Cudan said:

correct, first i wil do only the things neccesary  for the dutch registration and as you mentioned I might decide to keep him original, you never know.

Dan

It's always nice to have options.

[Cudan]

Hi,

 

Today, my day off work and alone at home i spend some hours working on the Plymouth.

I took the exhaust, driveshaft, pedalbox and engine out.

Next job is to take out the rear axle with suspenstion and the IFS.

see the pics

 

Dan

 

[casper50]

Been there and done that Cudan.  One step at a time will get you there in the end.

 

[falconvan]

I remember being at this point with my 48. Looks like you've got a nice car to start with; looking forward to watching.

[Cudan]

3 hours ago, falconvan said:

I remember being at this point with my 48. Looks like you've got a nice car to start with; looking forward to watching.

i am learning much from reading your thread

 

Dan

[falconvan]

Hopefully you get yours done way quicker than I have!

[Cudan]

hi

I disassembled this afternoon the front suspension on the steering side. After cleaning the bolds and nuts, they where covered under a layer paint and dirt, the came easy loose.

After disassembling i could check the front of the chassis and cleaned it, there was a lot of Texas dirt and sand in it.

Next time the passenger side.

Dan

[Cudan]

today did some work

I disassambled the suspension on the passenger side and the rear axle.

I found under the radiator support a litte hole in the chassis and needs repair, further one the chassis is in a good condition and next job to sand and clean the chassis for painting

 

Dan

[falconvan]

Yep, that's a common rust spot. I had a 49 that was rusted out bad in that spot and had to fix it.

[dale]

I put a chevy 350 with automatic in my 46 but if I had to do it over again I would have stuck with the six cylinder.. A ton easier and cheaper.  Those sixes are way cool with the dual carbs and dressed up .. I didnt know all that stuff was available for those motors.  Dual exhaust with loud mufflers used to sound great.

[casper50]

 

[Cudan]

hi,

took me more time to clean, sand and repair the chassis. My back was hurting to much

but last weekend the temperature was just high enough for the first layer of primer, i used 1:1 ledpaint and owatrol, i turned out a nice color of orange not bad when you are living in the Netherlands

just now the temp are below zero and freezing so  have to waite for the next layer 4:1 ledpaint and owatrol and the finish with a ferro paint.

 

 

 

[knuckleharley]

On 11/28/2016 at 5:25 PM, casper50 said:

 

BTW,if you want to hear something truly special,click on that YouTube link for Mike Farris singing that appears after your video ends Music just doesn't get any better than that.

[knuckleharley]

3 hours ago, Cudan said:

hi,

took me more time to clean, sand and repair the chassis. My back was hurting to much

but last weekend the temperature was just high enough for the first layer of primer, i used 1:1 ledpaint and owatrol, i turned out a nice color of orange not bad when you are living in the Netherlands

just now the temp are below zero and freezing so  have to waite for the next layer 4:1 ledpaint and owatrol and the finish with a ferro paint.

 

What is "ledpaint and owatrol"?

What is "ferro" paint?

[Cudan]

sorry mistake it is leadpaint : Lead (II, IV) oxide was also used as a dye and is also known as red lead. This orange-red colored red lead was used as impregnation for example wood and metal in damp places. The fabric is then ensures that the moisture is repelled even better.

Owatrol oil see  :  http://owatrol.com/en/all-our-products/7936-owatrol-oil.html  it is a Colourless, penetrating and isolating rust inhibitor.

Ferro paint : Rust resistant Iron Paint is a strong paint.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[knuckleharley]

9 minutes ago, Cudan said:

sorry mistake it is leadpaint : Lead (II, IV) oxide was also used as a dye and is also known as red lead. This orange-red colored red lead was used as impregnation for example wood and metal in damp places. The fabric is then ensures that the moisture is repelled even better.

Owatrol oil see  :  http://owatrol.com/en/all-our-products/7936-owatrol-oil.html  it is a Colourless, penetrating and isolating rust inhibitor.

Ferro paint : Rust resistant Iron Paint is a strong paint.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks. I doubt we can even special order lead paint here in the US anymore.

[Cudan]

 I put a second layer of leadpaint and owatrol on the chassis, when the temperatur is above 15 degrees i wil spray the black metalpaint on it.

The next job to do was the cleaning the front suspension. It is covered with a thick layer of grease and dirt, see the pics, took me some hours to clean it with a chissel and small hook.

Than a sandblasted it so i can also paint it.

One side ready.

 

[Cudan]

today the temperatur was high enough for putting the first layer off pain on the chassis, looks much better the black color