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Posted

looking good  :cool:

 

My thoughts above may not have been clear. I was thinking you could not return the starter because you been welding on it.

So to get you by, maybe install a universal pull starter switch on it to bypass the foot switch.

I have never done this, dont think it would be to hard. And would be able to still use the starter to get you by, till got the correct starter.

Here is a universal pull starter switch for a tractor that should work, cost $8.99

 

ABC398.jpg

Posted

In the above picture of the maw4016 notice the use of the correct starter switch and some people call it a solenoid. This is a foot lever pedal style. Notice the screw that is treaded into the lower right corner. This is where the wire connects from the starter motor and runs to the sisson choke if you truck or car has one installed.  When the lever is pushed forward it makes contact with the copper plate that sits on top of a fabric material so that you do not short to the connections.  The action of pressing the lever forward and hitting the copper plate then pushes the contact point to hit the copper plate and then this makes the connection so the starter motor will spin ad the drive end on the ring gear and at the same time sends the electric current to the sisson choke.

 

Looks as if you now have the correct starter motor and switch. Just have the motor checked out.

Rich hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

Posted
5 hours ago, Jeff Balazs said:

Sorry but I think you are losing control :) That switch is not a solenoid. Due to the configuration of these truck starters the foot actuator needs to function properly. It is either that or you find a late 50's starter that actually has a solenoid and run it off the ignition switch. A large starter repair shop should be able to correct this alteration with no harm done.

I had one in my b4d http://p15-d24.com/uploads/monthly_07_2016/post-6005-0-08175000-1469333333.jpg

pulled that sucker out..... :)

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