Bench test blower motor? and heater assembly

[Los_Control]

Curious if anyone has bench tested their heater blower motor?

I have dissembled my model 61 heater for a molasses bath, so took a peek at the insides of the blower motor while was at it.

To me the brushes look a little short,, but never seen a new set of brushes to compare them to.

I also do not know how to tell if the armature is badly worn. I cleaned it with some rubbing alcohol.

Basically ready to put it back together, just wonder if I can bench test it by connecting it to a battery charger, or will I need to connect it to the heater switch and resistors?

 

Anyone have good luck buying replacement brushes and replacing them?

Edited August 11, 2017 by Los_Control

[Don Coatney]

You might want to do a google search for a new motor.I found this one for about 20 bucks.I bought a 12 volt motor as I have converted.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/DonCoatney/Lights/Rebel%20Wires/P9250001_01.jpg[/IMG]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/DonCoatney/Lights/Rebel%20Wires/siemens.jpg[/IMG]

 

[Los_Control]

Good advice, I did find a couple right away, I am going to stay 6 volt on this truck, Not sure but believe positive ground should not make a difference in wiring.

I am still curious to find out if I can bench test the one that I have. I also have a b3b parts truck with a model 65 heater I can use. If I can test it.

I also have several early Ford heaters that are 6 volt. I just want to keep as much as possible 1949, back when things were better built then the Chinese junk pushed out today.

[Don Coatney]

I used this power supply to bench test my heater motor. So yes you can bench test it.

[Jerry Roberts]

You can also just hook it up to a 6 volt car battery . 

[Los_Control]

Thanks that does answer my question.

I did hook it up to a battery charger, typical shop unit with choice of 6 volt 40 amps, nothing happened.

Have not tried it yet after taking it apart and greasing, cleaning it.

But it did make me wonder if I would need something else from the ruck to test it..

Looks like I will be removing the heater from the parts truck later today.

[MBF]

You'll have better luck with a good battery for a bench test than a charger.   I don't see a lot of wear on the commutator from your photos.   I pulled one out of a parts truck this spring that I thought was junk.  I was surprised when it ran on the high and low speeds.   Cleaned it up and put it on the shelf.  Good luck!

[Los_Control]

Slow progress, I have been doing some other work to the truck, just now getting back to the heater. The paint is terrible at this point, but after assembly and gaskets, grommets I plan to disassemble scuff and finish paint. I did use the molasses bath and it did a excellent job of removing the rust. Any paint that was solid, the molasses does not remove. so is some feathering in that needs to be done.

Also I think the mirror is a good example. The body was complete rust, the paint looks like orange peel, but is actually the pits left from the rust.

Sandblasting would have destroyed it, but is very solid as is. And parts of the heater is in the same condition. Is mostly just cosmetics.

 

Problem I am having is the plate am holding, I see no way to fasten it. It fits snugly in to the case, just seems like if it moves the tiniest bit, it will hit the fan.

Can anyone tell me if there is a mechanical way to fasten it? or is it just press fit and when all buttoned up it will not move?

Thanks again, as always it is appreciated.

[pflaming]

Just secure the  motor to the bench and touch the wires to the   battery posts. Watch the rotation of the fan. Switches are convenience items. I've just tested two. Both six volts, tested on a twelve volt battery, both work, but will order a twelve volt per Don's post.  

[Aside] My air cooler results are disappointing. 

Edited August 3, 2017 by pflaming

[Los_Control]

sorry, I just added on to this thread instead of creating a new thread about the same heater. The motor is fine.

I started this thread when I took the heater apart, several months later trying to put it back together.

 

Is the fan shroud mounting that I am holding in my hand. I see no way to fasten it in the case.

If I show it sitting on the heater core, it looks like the sheet metal screws will ride right on top of the shroud, holding the shroud and heater core in place.

Just seems a little flaky to me, but with all the sheet metal screws on all four sides, it would hold it.

I was just wondering if anyone could confirm that was correct?

 

 

Edited August 11, 2017 by Los_Control

[Los_Control]

ok got it figured out.

The rear case, > heater core with rubber bumpers between case/core

Is the little tabs in the corners of the shroud. Those go to the heater core frame and prevent shroud from sliding around.

Then when you put the other side of the case on, the lip circled in red, goes into the matching lip on case.

Then you really need to squeeze both 1/2's together. This compresses the rubber bumpers pushing core against the fan shroud, locking the heater core in place.

Very simple design that seems to work quite well.

I wont call it restored, but saved it from the scrap heap since all the doors were rusted closed and pitted metal.

It will be easy to do a proper paint restore on it now at a later date, and can use it in the mean time.