Headers or stock exhaust manifold

[weasel]

I have a stock exhaust from a 49 b1 218 23".

I will sell it for 100.00 you pay shipping.

[ggdad1951]

1 hour ago, weasel said:

I have a stock exhaust from a 49 b1 218 23".

I will sell it for 100.00 you pay shipping.

keep offers for sale to PM's or on the for sale page please.

 

thanks

[Jim Shepard]

Jeff,

I like the setup just fine. I'm running a 230 punched out 60 over with a mild cam. The factory 2-barrel appealed to me for its simplicity. I didn't want to mess with synchronizing multiple carbs. Because the linkage is different on the cars (it comes across the head from the driver's side), I had to spin the Stromberg 180 degrees to get the throttle arm on the ride side of the motor. Then the choke housing wouldn't clear the top of the head so I had to have a block CNC'd to raise it up about 2 inches. Then it was just a matter of figuring out the linkage. Here's what it looks like...

As for noticeable difference, my top speed hasn't changed all that much, but I get there a lot quicker. Also, my gas gauge needle moves a lot quicker...

Edited January 12, 2017 by Jim Shepard

[Jeff Balazs]

Thanks Jim;

Looks very clean. I like that. Are you running dual mufflers ?

Jeff

[Jim Shepard]

Yup - dual Smitty's both running on the passenger side and exiting in front of the rear wheel.

[Jeff Balazs]

Thanks Jim;

I like what you have done. If you have any photos of the routing of your exhaust system I for one would appreciate seeing it.

Regards, Jeff

[Jim Shepard]

Don't have any photos of the whole length of the run. It's pretty simple, though. The pipes run parallel on the passenger side and make a 90 degree bend in front of the rear fender. As you can see in the photo, the pipes go under the cab "stacked" one on top of the other. As soon as space allows, they are routed parallel for the rest of the run. Trying to keep the pipes as close to the same length as possible, the outside pipe, which is connected to the front header, makes the bend first. I really would have preferred to run the pipes down on either side of the truck and out the back under the tailgate. The problem I couldn't solve was the gas tank. My primary concern was keeping the pipes as close to the same length as I could. I could have run them both down the passenger side and out that side under the tailgate; however, I didn't like the "Bimmer"/Euro look of that setup...

 

Edited January 18, 2017 by Jim Shepard

[Jeff Balazs]

Jim;

I sure like what you did. Btw....what & who's  cam are you running?

Thanks, Jeff

[Jim Shepard]

Don't really know much about it. My machine shop got it. They said it was a "mild RV cam." They sourced it locally, here in Sacramento.

[Theturtle]

I too am thinking about headers instead of repairing a cracked manifold.  

Do the cast headers make valve adjustment more difficult?  

[Reg Evans]

Simple answer is yes on the valve adjustment.

[Theturtle]

Thanks for the reply, Reg.  Guess I did not ask my question very well.  

I figure it is going to be more difficult.  I just want to get a sense of how tough it will be and that there is enough room behind the headers to get in there and do it.

[Don Coatney]

Suggest you adjust your valves prior to header installation. I did that and have not had to re-adjust for over a decade.

[Jim Shepard]

23 hours ago, Theturtle said:

I too am thinking about headers instead of repairing a cracked manifold.  

Do the cast headers make valve adjustment more difficult?  

Valve adjustment? We don't need no stinking valve adjustment...