Quality Water Distribution Tube and Timing Chain

[meadowbrook]

Hi all.

I am preparing my '50 Dodge for a trip from MI to the Hershey show and to maximize reliability, I am fixing the last original seal on the original engine (never rebuilt) and replacing the original radiator.

Please, can you experienced folks respond to the following questions:

1- I pulled the water distribution tube and it looks very solid, there is some corrosion but no holes. Is it worth it to replace it anyway? If so, who sells good quality ones? I see a large disparity in prices, from ~$40 to over $100. Or maybe I should keep mine as new ones will never be as good?

2- Since I have the original harmonic balancer , (3 piece), I would like to have it rebuilt, I mean the rubber must be pretty hard with 66 years of usage, is the Damper Doctor good?

3- My timing chain has quite a lot of of sag. The shop manual says 3/4" is the limit, I am under than, but that 3/4" figure seems awfully large, is it correct?

See attached pics and thanks for any advice.

[greg g]

The most important job the distribution tube does is direct coolant up through the slots in the top of the tube toward the valve seat area.  This is critically important for the exhaust valves as the only time they get cooled is when they sit against the seats in the closed position.  If the tube is in good condition and none of the upper holes are blocked, misshapened, or eroded larger than originally designed why not reuse it?  The Damper Doctor has a good reputation among customers, but what is his turn around time can he get it back to you in time?  And your timing chain looks like it is not getting sufficient oil.  There should be a small tube coming out of the front of the engine that provides an oil drip for the chain and gears.  If it is missing your oil is not going where it is supposed to, If its is there make sure it is not blocked with carboned up oil.  I believe I got my chain from Terrell Machine in Texas.  Called and it arrived 3 or 4 days later,  their number should be in the vendors area of the resources section.

[Dave72dt]

I'd definitely replace the chain.  It's a small investment for the time and effort you took to get to that point.  I think if you had the chain off and tried to hold it out straight, you'd find the other end of it has the 3/4" sag.  I've read somewhere that's the correct method for determining timing chain wear.  Another one of those " as long as I'm in there" things to do.

[Niel Hoback]

Never change a timing chain without changing both gears at the same time. Used gears will eat up a new chain.

[meadowbrook]

Thanks for the responses, I will replace the timing set, any recommended suppliers? Don't want to buy a cheap chinese part. 

[greg g]

Supplier suggested in first reply.

[glenie.r]

Hey there,  I have reassembled my engine after some time apart and also did the gears and chain... highly recommend it!

Just wondering if you happened to have had a shim with a beveled edge that you took out when you removed the timing cover and If so where was it please?

It has the cut out in it for the key way.

Mine doesn't look right and the book doesn't show where it should be.

 

Many thanks,

Glen

[Don Coatney]

Can you post a picture?

[meadowbrook]

3 hours ago, glenie.r said:

Hey there,  I have reassembled my engine after some time apart and also did the gears and chain... highly recommend it!

Just wondering if you happened to have had a shim with a beveled edge that you took out when you removed the timing cover and If so where was it please?

It has the cut out in it for the key way.

Mine doesn't look right and the book doesn't show where it should be.

 

Many thanks,

Glen

Hi, I did not see any shim related to the timing cover.

[Dave72dt]

Sounds like you may be referencing an oil slinger which if used would go on the crank after the gear and chain has been installed and before the cover goes on.