Keep Original Fasteners or Buy New

[Bingster]

First question:  When our cars were new, were the fasteners - like the floor panels bolt/washers, engine compartment shield to fender bolts, etc. painted the car color or natural metal?

 

The bolts clean up pretty good on a wire wheel.  Use the original or but new ones?

 

 

[dpollo]

I recollect that the fender washers and bolts which are visible in the trunk of a 50 were not painted

 

and the ones in the engine compartment were natural  possibly lightly cadnium plated.   I like to use

 

original fasteners if possible. 

[rb1949]

I'll vote to use anything re-useable.

[desoto1939]

Binster:  The question is, If you are going for AACA points judging or to have a good restored driver car.  If you are going to try to compete at the AACA level or even Walter P Chrylser car show level then you will need every nut and bolt to be original on the car. 

 

If you are looking to have a good driver then a modern bolt or screw will work.  If you want to enter your car in the AACA HPOF class  Historical Preservation of Original Features then the factory bolts are also important because they are also looking for this type of originality on the car.

 

 

So it all depends on what you want to do with the car.  The more original the easier it is to have it jusged as an HPOF car versus a driver car.

 

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

[Bingster]

I don't want it judged but I'd like it to be as original looking as possible for the things that could go either way and are easy to do. Nuts and bolts are not a big deal to paint or not to paint.  I do want the car looking like it came outta the factory without doing a frame off.  I can't say that I will drive it daily but when I do . . . 

 

I can see from my own car and Thrashingcows photos that the floor board bolt/washers are either rusted or there are a couple of brighter ones.  I sand blasted mine and they look good. But as those will never been seen (and no judge will ever peek under there) I may as well paint them black along with the floor pans.

[Don Coatney]

Seems to me that it is your choice on replacement or using the originals. Nobody else can see what you have to work with and make a determination for you.  

[Bingster]

That's basically right.  If I were younger and knew more about engines and stuff, I might try a frame-off but it's bad enough now with all the parts I have off the car. I have the inner fender shields and floor pans painted and ready, the radiator splash pan and that stuff.  All my interior garnish moldings have been restored and awaiting wood graining. I've also been collecting the hard-to-get stuff like a NOS hood ornament that I about fell over when I ran across it. The other stuff that I can get later like bearings and brake cylinders sleeved I will wait. The chrome is going to be a killer, and it isn't getting any cheaper.

 

I'm not going to strip the engine of it's accessories just to paint all of it.  I'll paint what shows. Like you said, only I will have to look in there. But when I do I want it to look sharp.

[suntennis]

When new a lot of the hardware was cad plated which was cheap and prevented rusting. Few places in the country do cad plating today so there are a few other ways to go. Zinc plating is low cost and will reduce rusting and look good but parts should be sand or bead blasted prior to get a uniform finish. Another approach is just paint silver. One restorer liked to sand blast the hardware and clear coat it using a hardener. All methods will make your car nicer.

[Labrauer]

I think the original is best but it may be difficult to find original bolts ect. to do the job. If you are not going to be judged on a car show then I don't see anything wrong with replacing with modern bolts and hardware. It is strictly up to you and what you want in the end knowing that you can say the car is all original from the paint to the bolts, engine and the frame.