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WINDOWS AND DOORS WEATHER SEALS


POPTOP

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CAN ANYONE TELL ME THE DIFFERENT BETWEEN USING  CLESTERS ROBERTS OR STEELE RUBER GASKEST BOOTS WINDOW AND DOOR RUBBER SEAL ECT WHAT IS THE AVANTAGE OR DISAVANTAGE OR IS IT COST  OR  USERFRIENDLY THIS IS MY FIRST BUILD

THANKS FOR ANY HELP

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I got everything from Roberts, but Wasn't real extagic about my Roberts windshield gasket, it doesn't cover the pinch welds as well as the original and I've heard the Steele doesn't have that issue, and my rear window gasket isn't as good as original either. The door seal rubbers and runs were decent, but with new thicker flat glass had to be opened, and they sent me the wrong clips, but that's likely just a one off accident. The cat wiskers that run along the window were very good quality, and clips not too bad. The front cowl vent gasket didn't fit very well, and after 5 adjustments it still leaks and worse then when it was the original dried out gasket, but over all most of the Roberts parts weren't too bad and cheaper then the other lines when I priced things out. I got a complete A-Z kit from Roberts, but be careful...I told them I wanted all the window rubber parts and gaskets etc for the truck, and they sent me all that and snuck in a $100 floor mat, that I had no intention of using or wanting.

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If you're not in a hurry, I've had good luck buying the window channel runs, and weather stripping at swap meets.  I carry a sample and purchase what I need by the foot.   For the windshield gasket, I'd definitely look to Clesters or someone that sells the wider version than Roberts sells.  Like 4mula says, it doesn't cover the pinch welds very well, and may leak w/o sealing.  Mike

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I just finished installing my windshield and back window using Steel rubber. They may all make them this way now, but the Steel windshield seal center division bar seal was molded into the rest of the seal which should help eliminate leaks to that area. I'm pretty much a perfectionist, so I wasn't real pleased that I could see the mold marks where the center rubber was molded to the rest of the rubber, but once it was installed it's harder to notice.

Also a word of warning! I had to modify the ends of the outside metal division bar because apparently even the Steel rubber isn't as thick as the original. If I hadn't checked it before tightening it down the ends of the metal bar would have dug into my brand new cab paint!!

The rear window seal fit ok, but again I am not happy with how the ends were joined together. It looks almost as if they made it too short and added a piece into it to make it the right length. Since I am planning on showing this truck to start with, I will probably end up replacing the new rear window seal.

I used Steel rubber exclusively on my 38 Buick and was extremely satisfied with every piece I got from them. That was 12 years ago and the rubber still looks as good now as it did when I installed it.

I don't think the quality is nearly as good on these truck pieces as it was on the Buick pieces.

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Ya, good call on the divider bar....sadly I didn't catch mine before digging into the new paint at the bottom. I removed it and put a small piece of foam to stop it rubbing. The Roberts gasket centre holes didn't even line up for mine...the holes in the outside bar are the same top and bottom so you can't even put that piece upside down

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I got the rear window, windshield and vent window gaskets from Roberts.  Not impressed.  I wound up getting a new windshield gasket from Steele, decided to live with the rear window gaskets and the vent gaskets fit great.  I also got the seal between the hood & cowl, window channels and cat whiskers from Roberts - worked great, no problems.

 

I got all of the soft seals for the door and door area from Clester's - fit and looks great, and at a reasonable price.  If I were doing it again, I would order all of that stuff from them again, plus I would order the windshield and rear window gaskets from them, as well. 

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  • 1 month later...

I'm concerned about my side windows (no vents) the regulators are frozen in the up position and all the seals, wipers and tracks appear to be toast. In fact all the window seals in the truck are leaking and brittle. Luckily the glass is complete and only one windshield panel is cracked. I'm hoping to take out the rear window and side windows for reuse. Crossing my fingers that taking them out goes well and that they can be saved. The problem I have is removing the side windows requires me to roll them down first. I can't do that yet and access is pretty limited. Maybe I can drop the whole assembly glass and all down and free the regulators through the access panel? Anyone had similar issues with their window regulators?

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There is a lot of good info in past threads on this topic. It is not as daunting as it seems to begin with. Once apart clean up all the metal parts and repair or replace as needed. You will want all new expendables. If you are replacing some of the glass you may want to consider all as you can use the old pcs for patterns and then it will all look the same.

 

Jeff

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There is a lot of good info in past threads on this topic. It is not as daunting as it seems to begin with. Once apart clean up all the metal parts and repair or replace as needed. You will want all new expendables. If you are replacing some of the glass you may want to consider all as you can use the old pcs for patterns and then it will all look the same.

 

Jeff

You are probably right I took a close look at all my glass and most of it appears to be delaminating. I did plan to have a glass company give me a quote on cutting all my glass.

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PB blaster and as much heat as you can safely use...but the Roberts side window stuff was pretty decent, and not horribly priced. No matter what...be prepared for a money pit on these old trucks..no matter what brand

Thanks, I'm starting this work today maybe I can salvage the the works. I can't wait to see how Flathead does with the Clester windshield seals.

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If the vented and non-vented regulators were the same I'd give you a set for free, I'm never using them again.

I wonder how hard that change would be vented windows would be a cool option? Why did you removed yours because of noise, leaks or maybe appearance?

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I wonder how hard that change would be vented windows would be a cool option? Why did you removed yours because of noise, leaks or maybe appearance?

I went power windows, and I wanted a full size window for the look I was going after...a lot of things shaved on my truck. To go vent you would need to weld brackets into the doors for the windows to mount on...those I cut off and hit the trash

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This forum doesn't allow for the kind of language I need to use on installing my power windows in my truck, but I blame the regulators I bought that didn't have much adjustment, but I corrected that this spring, and my glass move smooth and fast now...my issue was my door panel was a bit pushed in on one door, and the channel I built warped when I welded it, and I never noticed...kept cracking windows...I broke 4 or 5 to be exact..test fit the wood and it would work great, get the window in..work good...come back in 2 days and window cracked...just flexing them too much, but I learned (hard way) and corrected the issues...now I couldn't imagine being without them, especially since I would have to lean over my centre console now to try and manually roll the psgr down

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  • 5 weeks later...

I ordered my windshield gasket from Clester's, and should have it by Friday - fingers crossed! 

How well did the Clester's stuff work for you? I'm about to order weatherstripping and I'd like to make the job as easy as possible (ya right)! Your feedback would be most helpful.

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