Top Dead Center 230 straight 6 TDC and head gasket?

[Jarv69]

Putting my rebuilt 218 head on my 230 and wanted to confirm top dead center w back cyl at the top, been awhile and couldn't find a thread by searching. I bought engine used and wasn't able to document it either . I want to also see what's best torque is for my NEW head bolts as I see there's different opinions and techniques. ALSO when putting the new felpro copper side and paper side gasket on I put copper side to block and does anyone have opinion whether to keep it dry or use high heat black gasket maker and would that go on the paper side of gasket? Thanks all! Jarv

[Don Coatney]

How did you rebuild your 218 head? Give more details on how you used the search function?

[Jarv69]

Hi Don, I boiled the head resurfaced it, tapped out broken bolts and just cured the enamel paint now just need to install it. I went to search and looked for tdc, top dead center and head bolt torque for 230.

[deathbound]

In my 1936-1942 Plymouth service manual: Tighten all cap screws (bolts) or nuts in the sequence shown, drawing all cap screws or nuts down evenly, repeating until they are tight. A final tightening should be made on engines with cast iron heads when the engine has been run sufficiently long to bring all parts to operating temperature. For engines with aluminum heads, check the tension after the engine has been run and cooled and while it is still cool.  Using a torque wrench, tighten cap screws to 65-70 foot pounds, nuts to 55-60 foot pounds. Hopefully you have a service manual to confirm this, also, to show the sequence, which is critical.

[Jarv69]

I do have the manual but all the xmas decorations and such have somehow made it disappear

[Dave72dt]

TDC can be accurately found using a piston stop. Rotate the crankshaft until the piston comes up against the stop, mark the damper at that point, then rotate the crankshaft in the opposite direction until it once again comes up against the stop, mark that position on the damper, measure the distance between the two marks and divide by two and mark that point on the damper. That is your true TDC. Your crankshaft can rotate several degrees at TDC without much visible movement of the piston. That's why the stop is important. It stops piston movement before it gets to the very top. Crankshaft rotation with a stop in place is done by hand, not the starter.

As far as using high temp gasket maker or silicone of any kind, my personal opinion is use as little of it as you can, none if you possible. I've seen it get into too many places it shouldn't be in, usually from improper use and often the excess that squeezes out doesn't get cleaned up. If it squeezes out the outside, it means it probably squeezed out the inside as well where it can and has ended up where it doesn't belong. I do use sealers on most gaskets and seals, just not silicone based sealers if possible. JMO, other opinions may vary, theirs and your choice.

[casper50]

When the back cylinder is at the top of it's stroke so is the front cylinder which is no 1.  6 has to be tdc when on intake not exhaust stroke.

[Frank Elder]

How did you rebuild your 218 head? Give more details on how you used the search function?

 

Hi Don, I boiled the head resurfaced it, tapped out broken bolts and just cured the enamel paint now just need to install it. I went to search and looked for tdc, top dead center and head bolt torque for 230.

Haha......I like your bluntness Don but that one kinda bit you in the butt...lol. He had all the right answers waiting for you.