Blew a head gasket today

[Tony_Urwin]

Well, I got a lot of work done on the truck the last few weeks. Sandblasted everything from the cab on back, repainted and assembled the stakebed with new wood. Replaced the old frayed wiring harness with a 12V harness from Painless Performance, installed a Signal-Stat turn signal switch, replaced the bulbs and headlights, mounted an A/C compressor and evaporator, found a combination of belts that looked like they might work, installed a condenser for the A/C along with an electric fan. Lots of Dynamat and a Pioneer stereo.

The good news is:

1) The front end work and new radials make the truck ride great.

2) My State Farm agent insured the truck for $10k for $93 a year.

3) Alternator works great, battery is charging, truck starts every time, lots of progress on the Air Conditioning and stereo setup.

Bad news:

1) Although the right turn signals both flash, the left turn signal only works in the front. Hazard flashers work on only 3 corners. Something is wired wrong.

2) Even more discouraging, tonight I started her up and heard a high-pitched whine, lots of white smoke out the tailpipe. Shut her down and checked the oil and water. Oil looks good, but the water was down about a gallon. Must be a blown head gasket.

I had pulled 3 head bolts around the water neck to mount the bracket for the A/C compressor. I replaced the bolts with slightly longer Grade 8 bolts from the hardware store. Torqued them to spec, but didn't touch the other head bolts. I have driven the truck about 25 miles since I replaced the wiring and mounted the alternator and compressor. I drove it for a few miles at 60mph until I noticed the temp getting close to the 212 mark, slowed down and the temp dropped.

Any comments where I went wrong? Did I drive it too hard, or should I have replaced the head gasket when I pulled those 3 head bolts? Are the three Grade 8 bolts up to the job?

[Norm's Coupe]

Tony,

The head gasket may have been going bad anyway before you put the A/C bracket on.

That said, when you torqued the bolts down to spec, did you do it the second time after the engine warmed up to operating temperature? If not, the new bolts were still loose and not to spec anymore. You have to torque them twice. Once when the engine is cold, then again when the engine is at operating temperature. You'll be surprised how loose they feel after that engine warmed up, even though you had them tight when it was cold. Also, the original head bolts have a lip about 1/4 inch down from the bolt head to provide a better fit. Hardware store bolts don't have that. You can use Chevy 350 head bolts in place of the Mopar six bolts.

[Tony_Urwin]

Norm, you're right, the biggest mistake may have been my failure to tighten the bolts a second time. Well, I'm going to get a second chance to do it right!

I'll look for some longer head bolts with the shoulder to replace the generic ones, too. I think the Chevy bolts are the same length as the stock bolts (too short with the 1/2" thick bracket).

[Norm's Coupe]

Norm, you're right, the biggest mistake may have been my failure to tighten the bolts a second time. Well, I'm going to get a second chance to do it right!

I'll look for some longer head bolts with the shoulder to replace the generic ones, too. I think the Chevy bolts are the same length as the stock bolts (too short with the 1/2" thick bracket).

Tony,

Actually Chevy 350 bolts come in two lengths. Maybe the longer ones will fit. Don't know for sure. Never used them myself but others say they have. Check your Private Messages.

[greg g]

Here is what I used on my rebuild. The pic shows, grade 8, the old , and the new (chevy part number on the box, machine shop ordered them about .89 cents each). You might be able to use the Pioneer number to cross reference to another brand. the 25 refers to the quantity, I ordered 21.

[Ken_Hart]

man that sucks.. could be when you did tighten the three it was just enough to unstick the head near one of the other bolts. Grade 8 should hold up.. as mentioned above, a second tightening should have been done.. as for temp, 212 should not have been an issue (if you temp gage is accurate).

I would wonder why it got that hot when driving 60.. do you have all the factory sheetmetal around the hood/ radiator installed to ensure the air goes thru the radiator and not around ??

[Tony_Urwin]

After a little reflection, I think the larger fan pulley I installed created the overheating problem. Larger pulley, less flow. Hopefully, it's nothing that a new head gasket and smaller pulley won't fix.

[Don Coatney]

Tony;

Another option would be to use the AARP studs that blueskies and others have used to replace the head bolts. I will consider this option when I install my Spitfire head. They are a bit pricey but with this price comes piece of mind. Believe Pete has a link to there webpage on his webpage. Check his profile for more information.

[Merle Coggins]

Tony;

Another option would be to use the AARP studs that blueskies and others have used to replace the head bolts. I will consider this option when I install my Spitfire head. They are a bit pricey but with this price comes piece of mind. Believe Pete has a link to there webpage on his webpage. Check his profile for more information.

Don, I think you're just wishing you were an "AARP Stud".

I believe you are thinking about ARP, or Automotive Racing Products at http://www.arp-bolts.com/

Merle

[Don Coatney]

Don, I think you're just wishing you were an "AARP Stud".

Merle

Merle;

I was curious who would first comment on the geezer stud issue. You win:D

[grey beard]

Those new head bolts weren' so long that they bottomed, were they? They will torque tight if they are bottomed out, ya know . . . Just wonderin . . .

By the bye, your fan speed has nothing to do with cooling when you are running down the road at speeds. You could throw the fan away then. It's only needed at idle, when it's up to operating temps on hot days. Many a redneck hotrod has put miles on cars with no fans used at all. Just don't let 'em idle long.

Besides, PH radiators are bigger than the radiators used in cars with the same engine - lots of extra cooling surface there. Could your cooling system have not been completely full after your bolts were removed? Ya know you can't get them full till they warm up and the thermostat has opened up. Might it have been down a few quarts? JMHO

[Don Coatney]

By the bye, your fan speed has nothing to do with cooling when you are running down the road at speeds. JMHO

True about the fan speed but the fan is driven by the water pump and water pump speed is possibly an issue.

[Tony_Urwin]

Water pump speed is the problem for sure. It overheated while I was driving at highway speed.

I filled the radiator after the headbolts were all installed, but before I ran the engine. I'm sure you're right about the level dropping a little.

Today I sandblasted the head (saves $10 at the machine shop). They will mill the surface for $30. I ordered the head gasket, 18 new head bolts, also 3 studs, and 6 nuts to mount the A/C bracket. Total $100 at Vintage Power Wagons. I'll be more careful with the assembly this time.