doctor dirt Posted May 18, 2015 Report Posted May 18, 2015 Welcome to the forum, nice old car with tons of potential. I saw it on ebay with a Windsor business coupe that was pretty appealing too. Your manual is your savior and the forum will be your guide. I would drain all fluids to make sure their fresh and topped off correctly. Your fluid drive tap is under the passenger floorboard near the tranny hump. Thats your filler and it will turn up as you turn the key to spin her. ISO 32 most readily found at Home Depot, or Tractor Supply is the closest fluid to the original product used. (app. 7.5 quarts) I bought a D29 a few years back with Fluid Drive I was taught the ins & outs right here (they hate it Fluid Drive here but to bad) hahahaha!!! Just drove through Wellington last year after not being in that area for 15 years or so WOW did little rt.40 change. What used to be a two lane black top is now an 8 lane cruise through! Good luck and some black wall radials will help that road worthy feeling. Doc Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted May 18, 2015 Report Posted May 18, 2015 I would not drain and refill the fluid drive coupling. 2 Quote
_shel_ny Posted May 18, 2015 Report Posted May 18, 2015 I would not drain and refill the fluid drive coupling. X 2 Quote
deathbound Posted May 19, 2015 Report Posted May 19, 2015 I would not drain and refill the fluid drive coupling. X 2 I don't own, nor am I familiar with the Fluid Drive, but why not drain & refill? Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted May 19, 2015 Report Posted May 19, 2015 (edited) I've seen and been told of FD coupling leakage after a complete fluid change. The FD three sealing surfaces....copper bellows seal surface, the FD inner seal surface plus the graphite seal ring can sometimes leak after a fluid change. These couplings are something you do not want to have fixed especially if they work well and do not leak. I just had a guy with a C38 woodie that was the type of guy everything should be taken apart and serviced including his FD coupling even though it worked fine. Now he is in search of a good coupling as a company in texas told him they could fix his leaking FD...they really frucked it up and now it does not leak but has severe vibration after they cut it open to rebuild it. I do know many people do the fluid change on these couplings (see James Douglas ) spending hours draining and filling them.. I have several cars with FD couplings and have never touched them in over 30 years... they work fine and do not leak. I have re-sealed quite a few couplings over the years too as the early copper bellows type get pin holed (flexing) and the graphite ring gets severely pitted . I'ts JMO to leave it alone and be safe if it works good and does not leak.. Edited May 19, 2015 by Dodgeb4ya 1 Quote
Tatback Posted May 24, 2015 Author Report Posted May 24, 2015 Ok we're back so I should have the uncovered seat pictures later today. I have a question, though, about all the fluids. I'm going to the store to try and get everything. I got the shop manual in the mail and I'm going to play it safe and assume nothing has been done as far as maintaince. Engine oil- it says 20w but was told to get 10w30 Transmission- either ISO 22 or 33 or 10 weight Fluid drive- just top off with either of the above for trans The questions I have are for the rear axle and the 3 1/2 pints--- what to use. It says hypoid gear lube SAE 90. What should I look for? Also I'm going to get a grease gun for all the small points but what should I buy exactly for the gun? And one last question, what works best in the steering box? Quote
DonaldSmith Posted May 24, 2015 Report Posted May 24, 2015 (edited) 10 weight is for the (edited) semi-automatic gearbox. ISO 22 or 33 (32?) is for the fluid coupling. You may not need to top off the coupling, if it hasn't been leaking. Edited May 24, 2015 by DonaldSmith Quote
Tatback Posted May 24, 2015 Author Report Posted May 24, 2015 Ok thank you, one more thing, I'm going to drain the coolant and refill with new coolant. Is there a mixture that works best or is it 50/50. The manual just says 17 qts but nothing after that Quote
Don Coatney Posted May 24, 2015 Report Posted May 24, 2015 If your fluid drive works well and shows no indication of leakage I recommend you don't touch it. I see you live in Florida. How cold does it get where you live? Doubtful you will need much freeze protection but you do need rust inhibitor. Antifreeze does have rust inhibitor so I would suggest a mixture of 25% antifreeze and 75% water as water is a better heat transfer coolant. Then you might look to add some additional rust inhibitor. It is my opinion that 10-W- 30 is a good oil selection but others have there own opinions so use what makes you feel good. Quote
Tatback Posted May 24, 2015 Author Report Posted May 24, 2015 (edited) Accidental post..... Sorry Edited May 24, 2015 by Tatback Quote
deathbound Posted May 25, 2015 Report Posted May 25, 2015 For the steering box, use API/GL-4 SAE 85W90 gear oil. Quote
Tatback Posted May 25, 2015 Author Report Posted May 25, 2015 For the steering box, use API/GL-4 SAE 85W90 gear oil. Cool man thank you. Right now I'm stuck on finding an oil to use for both the fluid drive and trans. I looked under the resources tab and read that a tractor oil #134 is best as its iso32. Upon googling I found this.....would this work for topping off the fluid drive as wells as draining and refiling the transmission? http://www.amazon.com/Warren-Distribution-LU25UN2G-Tractor-Fluid/dp/B007GC9R8G Quote
deathbound Posted May 25, 2015 Report Posted May 25, 2015 Cool man thank you. Right now I'm stuck on finding an oil to use for both the fluid drive and trans. I looked under the resources tab and read that a tractor oil #134 is best as its iso32. Upon googling I found this.....would this work for topping off the fluid drive as wells as draining and refiling the transmission? http://www.amazon.com/Warren-Distribution-LU25UN2G-Tractor-Fluid/dp/B007GC9R8G Sorry, but I have NO experience with the Fluid Drive. Quote
DonaldSmith Posted May 25, 2015 Report Posted May 25, 2015 ISO 32 is right for the fluid coupling, but I don't know how ISO 32 compares to the 10 weight oil recommended for the gearbox. Someone will chime in and advise. Quote
Don Coatney Posted May 25, 2015 Report Posted May 25, 2015 Once again if your fluid drive shows no sign of leakage and it works well don't touch it. Don't top it off. Leave it alone. Don't try and fix what is not broken. I also recommend that you trash the fuzzy dice and find a rear view mirror. Quote
_shel_ny Posted May 25, 2015 Report Posted May 25, 2015 (edited) Not a requirement, but.................. if you go to "edit profile", and scroll down, there is a section .... "Profile Information". In that section there is an area.... "My Project Cars". If your add 1948 Chrysler Windsor there, I think it will show it at the left side under your location in your posts. That way readers/responders will know what you are working on Edited May 25, 2015 by shel_ny Quote
46Ply Posted May 25, 2015 Report Posted May 25, 2015 (edited) Don wrote: I also recommend that you trash the fuzzy dice and find a rear view mirror. I'll second that! Edited May 25, 2015 by 46Ply 1 Quote
Tatback Posted May 25, 2015 Author Report Posted May 25, 2015 Don't worry, once we start on the car the fuzzy dice are history. They came with the delivery. Also I've been looking for a mirror so that will be there too. For the life of me I can't find anywhere online or brick and mortar store that sells 10 weight oil by the quart. Everything is either a 12 pack or a 55 gallon drum Quote
Don Coatney Posted May 25, 2015 Report Posted May 25, 2015 https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=10w+motor+oil Quote
Tatback Posted May 25, 2015 Author Report Posted May 25, 2015 lol I tried that, I couldn't find anything with straight 10 weight and the one brand I did find was at a tractor supply store and I've never heard of it. Its for my transmission. The manual says 10w but after reading all the forums everyone suggests TDH iso22 and if it can't be found iso32. I just found... http://www.walmart.com/ip/44805855?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227032185282&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=62509949696&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=109747724936&veh=sem This should work, right? This is all new to me, figuring everything out the first time is the hardest. Then I'll have all my lists, notes, and receipts to keep up with the records. Every thread I search its just recommended that you use either tractor fluid, hydraulic fluid, tdh fluid but never a brand over the other or a link to peek at. That one at walmart does say it has anti-foaming additives. I just want to make sure I run whats best for my transmission and car. Its made it this far, I'd hate to be the one to damage anything. Quote
meadowbrook Posted May 26, 2015 Report Posted May 26, 2015 Great project and I love the flat black color. On the 10w, I found that the non major auto parts stores are more likely to have it than Napa, Autozone, eats. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted May 26, 2015 Report Posted May 26, 2015 http://www.amazon.com/Kendall-1042767-Non-Detergent-SAE-Motor/dp/B004RNSUA8 10W. Quote
Tatback Posted May 26, 2015 Author Report Posted May 26, 2015 Thank you, I ended up ordering some John Deere Hy-Gard transmission and hydraulic oil for the transmission. I'm not going to drain and refil the fluid drive, only top it off if it needs it. So far I'm up to 1400 in parts and haven't started yet lol.... It's going to be and early Christmas once everything gets delivered and I can start Quote
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