Points, and other small issues/facts for discussions.

[meadowbrook]

Hi folks just wondering on the experiences here related to mine, on my 1950 Dodge Meadowbrook.

 

1- Have you ever had points sets wear at the part that rubs against the rubbing block? I used a Bosch lube there by it seems it wore enough that when inspecting it because of hard starting, points barely opened.

 

2- On the points question (and no, I am not getting Pertronix, this cat's charm is its 'old school' features), how does one check dwell? I have an old dwell meter with the needle, but it is for 12 V. Would that give me accurate results?

 

3- Is it normal for the air cleaner to douse the carb with oil? No leaks but I am not confident the bottom fits well with the carb's mouth, I used a thicker gasket with a seeming improvement, but not perfect. Is it normal for air filter oil to be sucked in by the carb? I see no smoke on the tail pipe.

 

4- How do you folks who have converted to a PCV system seal up the oil fill cap? I plan on running a hose to the air cleaner, but understand there is a need to seal the cap. I know I just said I want to keep it old school but I do want to reduce the smelly crankcase fumes I detect when driving the car.

 

5- By the way, I am testing out the theory of using multi vis modern detergent oil on the car. It has 80,000 original miles and I used non detergent oil for the last 2 years, but upon opening the oil pan, found little sludge so decided to try Valvoline 20W50, which also has zinc.

 

So far no difference from before, a solid 45-50 psi cruise, 20-30 idle and nothing changed.

 

Oh, and I advanced timing to 8 degrees before TDC. She really liked that, no detonation, and is definitely rearing to go. I use 87 octane.

 

I plan to now replace the engine mounts which look soggy.

[Plymouthy Adams]

beside contact surfaces wearing due to electrical arc erosion..the rubbing block is usually the firt to go..especially if cheaper plastic and not phenolic..

 

check points with dwell meter..if new point one can usually get back with feeler gauge..but if any wear..you can only set with dwell after initial use...

 

oil level must me at correct level and of the correct viscosity to prevent splash over..actually you would have to tip the thing to leak oil..there should not be a hole to the car or center tube except at the very top as this would effectively defeat the sweeping curve effect of the air flow as it slings dirt/debris into the oil at the turn

 

VPW sells these as a kit..I have hear a few negatives here..proceed with eyes open

 

oil is your call...however the theory is that if non detergent has been used all the life of the high mileage engine that detergents will quickly start breaking up the residue in the engine and what is not caught in the filter will be carried to lube surfaces...replace filter very often till engine is clean. is the school of thought

 

be sure to watch your timing carefully..pinging is not good for these cars...and also your temp can go up significantly with just a bit to much advance...

[Don Coatney]

Hi folks just wondering on the experiences here related to mine, on my 1950 Dodge Meadowbrook.

 

1- Have you ever had points sets wear at the part that rubs against the rubbing block? I used a Bosch lube there by it seems it wore enough that when inspecting it because of hard starting, points barely opened.

 

With the points sold today it appears the rubbing block material is not as stout as it used to be.

 

2- On the points question (and no, I am not getting Pertronix, this cat's charm is its 'old school' features), how does one check dwell? I have an old dwell meter with the needle, but it is for 12 V. Would that give me accurate results?

 

When the factory switched to 12 volts the voltage to the coil was reduced via a ballast resistor to 6 volts so your dwell meter should still work.

 

3- Is it normal for the air cleaner to douse the carb with oil? No leaks but I am not confident the bottom fits well with the carb's mouth, I used a thicker gasket with a seeming improvement, but not perfect. Is it normal for air filter oil to be sucked in by the carb? I see no smoke on the tail pipe.

 

Sounds to me like your air cleaner is over filled as this will cause the carburetor to suck out the excess oil.

 

4- How do you folks who have converted to a PCV system seal up the oil fill cap? I plan on running a hose to the air cleaner, but understand there is a need to seal the cap. I know I just said I want to keep it old school but I do want to reduce the smelly crankcase fumes I detect when driving the car.

 

It was my understanding that with the PCV system the crankcase should still be vented but I may be wrong.

 

5- By the way, I am testing out the theory of using multi vis modern detergent oil on the car. It has 80,000 original miles and I used non detergent oil for the last 2 years, but upon opening the oil pan, found little sludge so decided to try Valvoline 20W50, which also has zinc.

 

No extra Zinc is required and detergent oil works well in these engines.

 

So far no difference from before, a solid 45-50 psi cruise, 20-30 idle and nothing changed.

 

Oh, and I advanced timing to 8 degrees before TDC. She really liked that, no detonation, and is definitely rearing to go. I use 87 octane.

 

I plan to now replace the engine mounts which look soggy.

[meadowbrook]

Thanks, folks.

 

What have been the negatives on PVC? I know there is some readjustment needed on the carb mixture.

 

On the oil bath, I fill it to the fill line, so not sure what else could be wrong. But I do have Carter carb and this is a FD 3 speed standard, which I understand should have a Stromberg. No problem for me because the FD drags the engine down so much I don't really use it in that mode.

 

On the Fluid Drive issue, it sure drags the engine down a lot, so the exhaust kind of rattles around and the car idles down to 400 rpm. If I rev with the brake on in 1st the engine wont go past 900 rpm. Original fluid I suspect, but no leaks and full. I checked.

 

On the timing. I don't hear any pinging, even in overdrive. I suppose with 7:1 compression on 87 octane, I should be good since I think these were designed for 77 ish octane regular or 88 'premium?

[DonaldSmith]

In installed a PCV system in 2009.  Here's a photo of the crankcase intake end:

 

 

I closed off the crankcase vent with sheet metal in the cap.  Air goes into the crankcase through the hose from the air cleaner (which has been converted from oil-type).  Here's the other end:

 

 

I followed instructions on the forum for adapting the hoses and tubing to the draft tube opening.  

[Don Coatney]

So you have an overdrive?

[Plymouthy Adams]

meadowbrook, on 13 Oct 2014 - 5:07 PM, said:meadowbrook, on 13 Oct 2014 - 5:07 PM, said:

Thanks, folks.

 

What have been the negatives on PVC? I know there is some readjustment needed on the carb mixture.

 

On the oil bath, I fill it to the fill line, so not sure what else could be wrong. But I do have Carter carb and this is a FD 3 speed standard, which I understand should have a Stromberg. No problem for me because the FD drags the engine down so much I don't really use it in that mode.

 

On the Fluid Drive issue, it sure drags the engine down a lot, so the exhaust kind of rattles around and the car idles down to 400 rpm. If I rev with the brake on in 1st the engine wont go past 900 rpm. Original fluid I suspect, but no leaks and full. I checked.

 

On the timing. I don't hear any pinging, even in overdrive. I suppose with 7:1 compression on 87 octane, I should be good since I think these were designed for 77 ish octane regular or 88 'premium?

 

you did not confirm correct viscosity of oil...do you have the service manual...you just do not put any oil in there willy nilly as the very vacuum of the air will draft light oil into the intake..the very principle of the oil bath needs be understood...while I do not have the book for 1950 the procedure and specs carried forward...and in the D24 manual, lubrication section page 225 clearly spells out the interval of service, procedure and specifications...SAE 50 above 32 degrees...SAE 20 below 32 degrees..(this is the very same requirements and procedure for the Plymouths and I have those specification and are valid though 1954...

Edited October 13, 2014 by Plymouthy Adams

[desoto1939]

I have converted my old oil bath air cleaner to using a modern paper air filter. It all depends on the style and type of metal airfilter that you have. I got my paper air filter at a NAPA store and the one that I have is a perfect fit where the old mesh oil bath filter did sit in the filter assembly. You will have to make measurements and see what can fit yours.

 

Since we do not drive our cars that mush in dirty roads as compare to what they had back in the 30's then I felt that I did not need the old oil bath.  I do know that some of the members do live on dirt roads so they might still use the oil bath filter.

 

It up to you and your own situation and driving habits and also the type of roads that you will be using.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[_shel_ny]

http://p15-d24.com/topic/29637-oil-bath-cleaner-mystery/

[meadowbrook]

I do have an overdrive, Don, and Plymouthy, I do use 50 weight oil in the oil bath filter, per the shop manual.