Overheating Issues 2!!

[55 Fargo]

Hi all, as you probably know I have been having overheating issues with my engine. Tonight I started the engine, to have a look at the flow in the rad to determine if the water pump is doing it's job, the coolant was flowing very slowly across the rad, as my t/stat is now out it has immediate circulation, I ran the engine about 5 minutes, it was already getting warm at the top of the rad, the heater hoses were hot, the top rad hose was hot, the head was warm.But the bottom of the block was cold as was the lower rad hose and very bottom of tank was cool. Now since there is no t/stat every thing should be at least warm. I drained a cup of coolant from the petcock it was also cool. Either the block is till plugged or the waterpump is not pumping very well. Tomorrow I will let it warm up to operating temp and feel these areas again, to see if the botto:confused: m rad hose remains cool, this is definately a problem, no doubt it may be causing my overheating issues, and hopefully it is the water pump. I did remove 3 freeze plugs, the water dist tube and flushed the whole block from all openings, that should have got a lot of the crud out, and there was a lot of crud that came out. Any ideas on this one guys........Fred

[PatS....]

Maybe try reverse flushing with the garden hose in case something is blocking the flow.

[Fireball]

That is exactly what happens with removing t-stat. Some areas remain cold and some get extremely hot, it is a no no guys. The resistance t-stat creates even when opened is needed to get the water circulate throughout the block, now it searches the shortest route and is not mixing.

Removing thermostat is no solution to anything. If you want some constant flow, drill 1/4" holes into baseplate of t-stat. Two or three is enough to allow some bybass without ruining the ideology of the whole system.

[Lou Earle]

test the pump- remove the side hose and loosen the belt. Then stick a screwdriver inthe hole and try and turn the pump- if you can turn it the pin has sheared and when running is turning a lottle but not enough

lou

[55 Fargo]

Good morning yall, Happy Fathers Day to every Father and Grandfather on the forum. Glad to hear everyone that took part in the Tulsarama events had a good time and safe trip, even up to the day before I sure felt tempted to drive on down and partake in the events, as it is about 900 miles straight south of Winnipeg.

Anyway this morning it's a somewhat overcast day about 70 degrees outside, I jump in the 47 and go for a short 3 mile ride, when I get back she is running about 180, the temp in the top of the rad about 173, but I knew my gauge was a bit out. So I start to rev up the engine, to see if the temp will come down a bit and to see if the coolant is moving in the rad. This time as I am revving the old girl up I see the top section of the bottom rad hose collapsing and I mean collapsing real good. My bottom rad hose consists of 2 straight pieces of rad hose and the metal horseshoe shaped steel tube.Now do yah think this could be a problem, would this cause a bit of heating issues when driving hard at higher speeds. What do yah all think, about this as being a culprit in running hot...........Fred

[james curl]

Most likely, if the hose collaspses then the water return to the engine is reduced. Sounds like your trouble all along was the bottom water hose. When you replace the hose with a new one make sure that it has a spring in it to prevent collasping. Tell the parts man that it is a suction hose and needs to be made not to collaspe when suction is applied.

[55 Fargo]

Put a torniquet on made of house wire, seems to improve things, will go for a longer road trip to verify, as it is only 72 outside here right now, want an 80 plus day to see how things will cool, can handle 200 on a hard run on a hot day, but would like to keep it at 185 to 190.......Thanx Fred

[55 Fargo]

Hi all, went for a cruise yesterday afternoon temp 75 and muggy out side strong east winds. Car heated up to 200, on the way to the store, took a break, then headed back home, this time it was going against the wind temp steady near 185 all the way home. But I was losing power, as I would step on the cas, it was bogging right down, if I put my foot on the clutch she would rev right up again, car was bucking a bit. Got home let her cool a bit, went for a ride later, after about a 1/2 mile she started bogging again. It was like fuel starving or something, because it was hot under the hood could this be a vapor lock of some kind, I do have the heat shield on the fuel pump. But I did dsicover a hot heater hose laying against the fuel line coming up to the carb, did not shut off my manual heater control valve, could this do funny things to the gas, because the hot heater hose was touching the fuel line to the carb.

The heating issue is baffling me, not sure what to do next, figure the t/stat should go back in, it will slow down the flow at least to the rad and maybe it will be more efficient at coolng, don't think I need to flush out engine and water dist tube again, as the antifreeze comes out nice and clean, when you open the block petcock drain.

I do have a rad from a 47 Chrysler, maybe I should have this one re-cored and have it made larger than factory, not sure what direction to go in. I know the temp numbers aren't that bad, but what if I was to try and go for a 50 mile run at 80 plus outside, it might boil right over.........Thanx Fred

[Norm's Coupe]

Fred,

First thought on bogging down was a dirty tank or fuel line, then remembered you are using a portable fuel tank and line. However, how's your fuel pump? That could be causing the bogging down problem.

[55 Fargo]

The rubber hose that attaches to the fuel pump and connect to the fuel line has a tear and is leaking, so I figure that is the culprit. Does anyone know where to buy this item, or does anyone have a decent used on for sale, my parts car has one but somebody cut it off, so it's useless........Fred

[Norm's Coupe]

Fred,

That's just standard fuel line hose. You can buy it by the foot at the auto parts stores and cut off what you need. Think it's 3/16" ID hose. Just take the old one with you if not sure of the size.

[Young Ed]

Fred we went over this before maybe on the old forum. When new these had a hose similar to a brake line or the oil line to the gauge. I don't think anyone has ever found a source for a new one. You'll have to get a small piece of steel fuel tubing to put in each fitting and then just put a rubber hose with 2 clamps on it.

[55 Fargo]

Thanx Ed

[Johnny S]

Fred, if I am thinking about the same part AND if the one on the '49 uses the same fittings as the P15 ....... then I had several of these hoses made up at NAPA. I think they cost about $5.00/each to have made up. They are pretty slick. They have high pressure fittings at each end that are just a press in fit and do not require any clamps....unless you wish to put one on. Plus, if you cut them a little long to start with if you ever need to replace them you just cut them off close to the fitting ('cause they are a pain to wrench off unless the pump in detached) and then just push the hose over the fitting when you want to reattach it. Seems to be working fine and I guess the fittings are designed to withstand well over 100 psi.

[greg g]

I cut my metal line off set the ends about a half inch, then ran a loop of new fuel hose between the ends. the loop allows for engine movement.