Bobacuda Posted June 10, 2014 Report Posted June 10, 2014 As I slowly work toward the bodywork phase, I have been reading horror stories caused by various types of primers or paint over non-compatible types of primers and paint. Online, I have read everything from not quite drying, to peeling and alligator skin as the result of mismatching the types of primer and paint. The paint on the outside of my truck won't be an issue, it is in such bad shape it has to come off. The interior and firewall paint, on the other hand, is definitely old, but still hard and not chalky. I would have thought that enamel would have become chalky and deteriorated by now - its been on there 61 years. I would prefer not to strip everything to bare metal if I do not have to, so I was wondering, what type of paint did they use at the factory....and if was enamel, how the heck did they get it to hold up so well? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 10, 2014 Report Posted June 10, 2014 most product lines have a mid coat paint..this will be used to seal the original paint and make it compatablie with the new top coat...this mid coat is usually used when the party whishes not to remove to bare metal...this is not always a needed step either...first I would ask if you have decided on the final finish of your car and in doing that you can use a out of the way, basically out of sight, original painted area for a test/reaction experiment...every website, every paint supplier tell these horror stories..they are real but not as prevalent as they would like you to believe/think..I have had but seen one such real life experience in painting cars that the mid coat was an absolute necessity as the owner did not want to go to bare metal as it was just an old truck and not worth the effort but still wanted nice and shiney and color change...here is how the vehicle turned out... Quote
Dave72dt Posted June 10, 2014 Report Posted June 10, 2014 Paint chalking comes a lot from UV exposure and since the firewall and interior parts see relatively little UV rays, those pieces hold up well. Depending on the age of the car, it's probably an alkyd enamel. I'd suggest the use of a sealer from whatever paint brand you intend to use for the final color and follow that brand's recommendations for prep and compatible products. All paint manufacturer's have tech lines you can call and have online P-sheets you can download. Take advantage of their expertise. Quote
NiftyFifty Posted June 11, 2014 Report Posted June 11, 2014 I've used tremclade primer and its fine for enamel or acrylic enamel paint, and I've used it right over the original paint with a scuff up before and no issues. Always best tho to go to bare metal wherever possible, I'm doing my interior this time, but I'm having the whole truck sandblasted so I can do bodywork and paint everything from bare. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.