Started the teardown, and now the build up.

[casper50]

https://www.facebook.com/michael.harrell.186/videos/o.127686493951407/10211458832856832/?type=2&theater

 

 

 

[knuckleharley]

10 hours ago, casper50 said:

https://www.facebook.com/michael.harrell.186/videos/o.127686493951407/10211458832856832/?type=2&theater

 

Bad link

 

 

[casper50]

works for me.   try this one.

 

 

 

[knuckleharley]

That one worked,thanks!

[Don Coatney]

Sounds good. But it looked like a hand was goosing the engine but I could not see an arm attached to the hand????

[casper50]

Camo works!  Don I can't get the carbs synced.  Rear is in the middle and the front stays just off of the bottom of the sight glass.  What should I be adjusting on the carbs?  

[Don Coatney]

Synchronizing the carburetors has nothing to do with carburetor adjustments.  It is a carburetor linkage adjustment to insure equal air flow to all the carburetors. The idle mixture and or the idle speed has nothing to do with synchronizing. To correct imbalance adjust the throttle linkage only.

[casper50]

that's what I'm doing wrong.  Thanks.

[Iammister]

Man...I just spent over an hour reading every post from beggining to here...great job on the DIY and documenting the build. Have so many friends who started cars in much better shape and gave up with less to do. Great job! Beautiful car and can't wait to see the pictures coming as you button the project up!

[casper50]

Got some good news yesterday.  Had a local upholstery guy come over and give me an estimate for the whole interior.  I have the material and he's going to make everything for the seats, doors trunk area and kick panels.  He's furnishing the carpet, headliner, visors, windlace, door cards, kick panel cards, rear shelf card and truck cards.  And installing it.  All for the grand total of $1400.  That's with the 20% discount for military and retired military. Pretty happy guy today.

[DrDoctor]

   That IS good news. I wish some tradesmen around here would give a healthy veteran’s discount like that. The only vet discounts around here are from Lowes, and Home Depot. And, then there’s the free healthcare I receive from the VA, and you know what they say about doctors: they’re the worst patients. Well, that’s true!!! Anyway, congrats on the incredible price for your interior. It sounds like you’re moving ahead a “flank speed”.

   Thx.

[casper50]

Our small VA clinic has 1 doctor and 1 PA.  I dumped the doc and went with the PA.  The doc thinks everything wrong with someone is all because "we're all getting a little older and things don't work like they use to".  Dumba**.  The first visit after switching the PA sent me to have a MRI on my back.  I seem to have the lower back of an 85 year old man.  I'm 60.  I put it down to 23 years of doing situps on the ground or gym floor for PT.  Anyway she prescribed Meloxicam.  My back very rarely ever hurts anymore.  Still all wore out but it doesn't hurt me like it used to.

[casper50]

All new wiring harness here.  Putting weather stripping and other rubber part on and in also.

[knuckleharley]

6 minutes ago, casper50 said:

All new wiring harness here.  Putting weather stripping and other rubber part on and in also.

Can you tell us where you bought it,the price,your initial opinion as to quality,etc,etc,etc?

[casper50]

I bought the main under dash/engine bay harness off of ebay for $75.  A steal of a deal.  the rest came from Rhode Island Wiring and ran about $435 or so. It all looks really good and correct.  Should be a snap to redo hopefully.

[knuckleharley]

45 minutes ago, casper50 said:

I bought the main under dash/engine bay harness off of ebay for $75.  A steal of a deal.  the rest came from Rhode Island Wiring and ran about $435 or so. It all looks really good and correct.  Should be a snap to redo hopefully.

Can you tell us which vendor? The link just took me to a generic ebay page. For 75 bucks I am assuming it is modern plastic-wrapped wiring and a generic harness and fuse box?

 

I tracked down the Rhode Island Wiring company and came up with this link http://www.riwire.com/ . Is this the correct one?  I went there to look for a harness and prices for my 1942 Dodge,and there are no listings for 1942 models at all,and the Dash and Engine Harness is  $328.00 for a 1941,and $527.00 for a 46-48. Does anyone know if the wiring is really that much more complicated for a 46 than a 41,and where the 42 fits in?

From what I read on that page it sure does look like the produce top-quality harnesses,and wiring is definitely one place you don't want to cut corners.

BTW,I just bought a new dash harness for my 51 Ford 6 cylinder coupe with turn signals,and found it on sale from one of the reputable 49-51 Ford restoration supply sources for $276. Normally they seem to run around $325,which is on par with what RI Wiring is charging for a 41 Mopar. I have no idea what a 46-48 Ford cloth covered wiring harness sells for,but now I am assuming a hell of a lot more than one for a 41 Ford.

 

UPDATE: Just checked Rhode Island Wiring web page to compare dash wiring harness prices for a 51 Ford 6 cylinder,and they don't list that harness. They do for the V-8,but not the 6.

Edited December 4, 2016 by knuckleharley
update

[casper50]

Nope it's an original NOS that came in the original box. I bought it over a year ago and it was just a one off.  He sells NOS parts but this is the only wiring he had.  I also bought NOS headlight bucket wiring from another vendor on ebay.  I'll look back through my history but might not find them.

 

 

 

feiron352  for the underdash harness.

vintageamericanpartscompany  for headlight bucket siring.

 

Edited December 4, 2016 by casper50

[knuckleharley]

I really don't get the radical price increase for a dash and engine wiring harness from a 1941 Dodge to a 1946 Dodge. They were essentially the same cars mechanically,so why would a harness for a 46 cost almost twice as much as one for a 41?

Does anybody know?

More importantly from MY POV,does anyone know where my 1942 coupe fits in?

[Young Ed]

The cars were essentially unchanged 42s from 46-48 so I would say the 46-48 wiring is the one to get. Should have known you'd need the more expensive one  

[knuckleharley]

4 minutes ago, Young Ed said:

The cars were essentially unchanged 42s from 46-48 so I would say the 46-48 wiring is the one to get. Should have known you'd need the more expensive one  

Yeah,but I can always hope.

For the life of me I just can't figure out why the wiring on a 46 would be more complex than the wiring on a 41,when they are virtually the same car and have identical mechanics.

Edited December 4, 2016 by knuckleharley

[Young Ed]

I agree the only difference should be lengths of wires to reach the different configurations.

[casper50]

Have made a bit more progress.  Rollup door glass is in, rear window, door handles and locks, taillights, stop light and license bracket are all mounted. All the chrome will have to come back off to be buffed and polished but needed a trial fit.  And before I hear about it being unsafe the jack under the car isn't holding anything.  It's a good place to store it out of the way.  My upholstery guy called this morning.  Good news and bad news.  The seat cushions are finished but he can't use the vinyl that I bought won't go through his machine, gums it up for some reason.

Edited December 18, 2016 by casper50

[casper50]

Got the front fenders on.  Looking like a car now. Windshield is in also.

Edited December 23, 2016 by casper50

[knuckleharley]

Did you have your radiator recored locally,or did you buy a new one somewhere?

[casper50]

MIne checked out fine so I'm reusing it.