Carbon Monoxide Concerns

[55 Fargo]

Hi all, was thinking about this tonight, as i have done a lot of major floor repairs to my car, most of it welded and every joint seam sealed. But I am no professional car builder/restorer, and can't help to think, there is no way I can completely seal this old car. Now I don't believe these old cars were probably completely sealed right from the factory, as car builders of the time probably did not have the exactness on the assembly lines. Now I was thinking as I have young kids, if my floor is sealed up and the interior of the car is sealed as best as I can get it,my exhaust system is new front to back, it should be pretty good. Now my uncle was telling me a story of some relatives back in the 50s , they were driving an old 30s or 40s car, the car was was not sealed and there 2 kids got carbon monoxide poisoning in the back seat, and the parents thought they had just fallen asleep, tragic but true. I was thinking of keeping a battery operated carbon monoxide alarm in the car, would this be good insurance, would it work, I would not want my kids or anyone else getting CO poisoning in my car.....Just a thought Fred

[david lazarus]

A few (15+) years ago we had similar incident down here, I recall that this issue only seems to be linked faulty exhaust systems (holes/cracks etc) and/or when driving a stationwagon/estate/hatch with the tailgate open. Probably not a problem with a properly maintained car.

[eric wissing]

I think the real key is to have a good exhaust system, good pipes, muffler etc. The addition of the rubber mat and or carpet will also protect you. The household sensor might be too sensitive. I don't know. Something to consider. I amguessing that most of the older cars now on the road are in better shape than many 10 year old cars as far as the upkeep. They are probably driven in nicer weather too, so windows would be open on most occassions. Saftey is always first. I am sure some people will post who are much experienced in this area. Eric

[Norm's Coupe]

Fred,

Growing up and riding around in these old cars as a kid we never had a problem, even on long trips. The only person I ever heard of getting sick from carbon monoxide was my aunt. That was about 1978 and she was in a 70's model car. However the cause for it was a bad exhaust system. She fixed that and had no further problems. So........if the exhaust system is good, you should be ok.

[PatS....]

I agree, a tight exhaust system is vital for kids safety in an old car. Also, those vents that go over the windows and the windows cracked an inch or so.

As far as the floor goes, once it's all welded in, a good undercoating would seal it up pretty good. That and a good exhaust will keep everyone safe.

If you are really concerned, I think there are battery powered O2 sensors out there

[greg g]

The only time I might be concerned is if your were driving in cold weather with all the windows up and the old model 36 heater continually blowing inside air around. As stated most of our usage comes in nice weather with windows opened. Good leak free exhaust system is the key. gotta get the C O to the rear of the car.

[Allan Faust]

Fred,

It doesn't matter what age the car is.... a bad exhaust system is the cause of any CO poisoning.... whether the car is 1 or 60 yrs old.... You've replaced the exhaust, fit it tight... don't worry about it.

Allan

[55 Fargo]

Thanx everyone, I agree exhaust systems are the key, the one on my car is new, have not put on a tail pipe yet though, but it will go on, that means the system is new front to back.........Fred

[55 Fargo]

Now that were on exhaust systems, does anybody have any pics of the muffler hanger and where it is supposed to mount. I have a single Smithy on my car, but the exhaust pipe i think maybe be too long, will have to shorten it, hang the pipe better, then install the tail pipe. My exhaust system was made using the old pipes for the templates. I do know that with no tail pipe, I have smelled exhaust in the car, as the areas under the back windows were open, one side is repaired with new sheet metal, the other side is next, a coat of seam sealer and once the door panels are back on it should be fairly good and sealed.....thanx Fred

[Norm's Coupe]

Fred,

It really doesn't matter where the hangers are hung under the floor. The shop cut off my old ones when they installed the tail pipe. They then put new ones in. They hung those from the floor supports. All you are looking for is something to hold the pipe in place, doesn't matter where that is. Don't have any pictures of that.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Norm..that is odd they attached to the floor...you already have flex issues with rubber mounted engine to the frame and using frame supported hangers to the rear. To add them to the body in my opinion would increase flex as now you have the engine torque to deal with plus the roll of the body flexing your exhaust system.

I like the new rubber iso block hangers with the 3/8" stem that welds to the pipe..my system is prety rigid but I did address the flex by placement of ball coupers at the end of the H-pipe.

[55 Fargo]

Good morning Norm and Tim, and it is a fine morning here in Southern Manitoba, sunny and 72 for today. The hanger right now is mounted from the frame section that is arched and goes from one frame rail to the other in the back, it will need to be fixed up some in order to be more stable. The trouble with having a car not on the road officially is, it's hard to get to the muffler shop to have a pro do the install. So I will have the tail pipe section made using the old one as a guide, I will then install and hopefully it will be okay, not sure I am going to keep the Smithy or go with a regular muffler yet, the Smithy sounds good, just not sure if it suits the car, plus when the rpm is up there at 55mph, a regular muffler may sound quieter........Fred

[55 Fargo]

One other question, the area under the car directly below the back window on a Coupe, this would be the area behind the back seat window crank area. This area down below where the rockers would be was normally closed in, now over the years moisture and crud would sit there and rot through. Now I have sealed this area up again, should I drill drain holes for water, or is this an invitation for exhaust gas to come in. When its raining out, and the car is out in the rain, how much water will travel down the windows into the door cavities or this area under the back window. Just thinking about this, would be nice to leave this area open as all water would drain out, but then the dust would come right in............Fred

[bob westphal]

Drain holes are always a good idea in areas where the possibility of water staying in a closed area exists. I always drill a few extra holes in the bottom of the doors and side windows. I also leave at least one of the smaller plugs out of the spare tire well.

[Norm's Coupe]

Fred,

I would put a couple of drain holes under those rear quarter windows. Even if you have new window sweeps and seals, water can still get in there.

Tim,

All I did myself on the exhaust system was to install the manifold pipe and muffler. Did not have a tail pipe to use as a pattern so took the whole car into (forgot which now) either Midas or Car X. They made a new pipe and hung it. Was standing right there next to them most of the time. They did hang a hanger to one of the floor joist between the muffler and rear axle. It was fairly close to the muffler. Now there is at least one more under there that I remember and know of. That one is at the rear of the car. It is attached to the cross over for the frame. My exhaust does not move that you can see or hear. I also watched them remove the old hanger in about the same spot. That one was also attached in about the same spot and was not on the frame. Don't know if it was original or not since it was there when I bought the car.

[55 Fargo]

I agree Bob, my only concern is, under the down below the rear side windows on a coupe, is normally a closed cavitie, by drilling a few drain holes,. don't see this being an issue of letting in exhaust fumes as long as the exhaust system is in good shape and exhausting out behind the car. The panels cover this area from inside the car, which will help toseal the area off from outside air coming in the car. I think I will drain a few drain holes in the are, about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch...........fred

[Norm's Coupe]

Here is another reason I don't think it matters if you attach the exhaust pipe to the body.

I have a pair of drag pipes (aka lake pipe, side pipes, whatever people want to call them) for my coupe. The hangers for those are chrome plated and are attached to the body of the car, ie: underside of rocker panel. These brackets are too short to reach all the way to the frame. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/pl/Jess+Tester,910-13399_L.jpg,417,5590_Lake-Pipe-Brackets.html

[BobT-47P15]

I think my rear tailpipe hanger, which attaches to that crossmember, has metal at the top where it attaches to the car, a length of pretty thick rubber in the middle, and an "L" shaped piece on the bottom, curved to follow curve of tailpipe.