THRobinson Posted September 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2013 If it was stored properly, she should start for you. Once you figure out the quirks involved in conning an L6 into actually starting instead of just spinning over. My truck has a hand choke, hand throttle, foot throttle, starter pedal and a key switch involved... The cars are a lot easier. Ya hopefully... just some small stuff to sort out though. No rad hoses, started was off when I got it, bolts are missing so trying to figure out what size I need for those, plus... starting it. I see on TV shows people just spray some carb cleaner in the the carb when trying to start it... I assume wired direct to the starter solenoid since I have no keys... looks easy enough but, I like my hair... I don't wanna burn it off by doing it wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruffy49 Posted September 16, 2013 Report Share Posted September 16, 2013 (edited) Saw gas. Seriously, use 2 stroke fuel for the first start, dribble some into the carburetor, cross your fingers/toes/eyes, hold your mouth right, and pray... and stand back, if the mix lights off, any thin spots in the exhaust pipe are going to blow through and flames will go everywhere. 2 stroke mix isn't quite as explosive as straight gas, less chance of a backfire turning the carb into a grenade. And it IS going to backfire a few times before everything smooths out and settles down. You are going to find a lot of dust, moisture and corrosion in the carb, distributor, coil connections, etc. And do not be surprised or alarmed if the starter smokes a bit at first, Mopar engines leak, and oil gets into the starter and generator. I'd suggest you pull the plugs and spin it over on 12v with the coil wire and fuel gauge disconnected until you see oil pressure. The rings in these engines can be rather brittle, you don't want to snap one cranking it dry under compression. Once it builds pressure, install the plugs, hook up the coil wire, leave the gas gauge disconnected (12v will fry it) and start her up. Edited September 16, 2013 by Scruffy49 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THRobinson Posted September 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2013 Oh, I have the manifold... not a whole lotta exhaust left Wish there was a good YouTube video for this... gotta admit that's where I've been learning a lot from for my Impala. When comes to starting old engines, they seem to bypass 90% of the procedure and skip to spraying cleaner in the carb and someone working the key to start it. Which is made harder when I have no one to help me with this. Guess keep a fire extinguisher close by and wear a hat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1941Rick Posted September 16, 2013 Report Share Posted September 16, 2013 Pan gaskets are readily available. Got mine from Lordco. NAPA should have them as well. Any sludge in the oil pan has turned to concrete by now after all that time. Replace what oil is in there and try to start it up. What can you harm. If it runs good, pull the pan and clean it up and run a non detergent oil. You have an old engine that is full of sludge and leave it where it is. If does not run good the solution is obvious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THRobinson Posted September 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2013 My problem is, I am well over 1.5 hours from anything apart from Canadian Tire. Most stuff I have to order online. Also not certain if there is a difference for oil pans... I know the Canadian vs USA engines were slightly different sizes... mine is the USA model, but I am in Canada. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THRobinson Posted September 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2013 Interestingly enough, went through the large bin of trim and random parts, realized on the bottom was what appears to be a head gasket, and an old piston. Same gasket as seen here in the top left. Maybe the engine was rebuilt? or extra parts because needed rebuilt... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck51631 Posted September 17, 2013 Report Share Posted September 17, 2013 I use Castrol 30w oil. I was tempted to use a 15w-40w oil but decided against it. I live in Florida due to the heat I decided to stick with the 30w oil according to the owners manual. Not sure where you live. I use a detergent oil, I had the oil pan out and was lucky it was not filled with sludge. When I change the oil it takes 6qts. when changing the filter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 17, 2013 Report Share Posted September 17, 2013 quote in part.... When I change the oil it takes 6qts. when changing the filter. That is correct....the lubrication section provides insight on every aspect of the cars and the assemblies that make it work... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted September 18, 2013 Report Share Posted September 18, 2013 Years ago when I would store my 38 for the winter, I would put a tablespoon of trans fluid in each cylinder. I always worried about rings locking up when starting the car in the spring. I would never use starting fluid, carb cleaner or anything of that nature on a spring start up. I have seen engine lock up doing it that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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