SpecialK Posted September 3, 2013 Report Posted September 3, 2013 Hey Guys, through the support of the forum (THANKS to UKPlymouth) I will soon get a "new" frame for my P15.It is planned to sandblast the frame and then prime it. Is it enough to do a cavity protection when the car is finally restored or would you do this first?What do I have to remove at all to change the frame? The front fender, engine and transmission I know. What about the doors, windows and rear window? I fear that could tear the glass - so I would like to save this work.I planned to jack up the body and take away the frame down to the bottom.Does anyone has an idea?Greetings Thomas Quote
greg g Posted September 3, 2013 Report Posted September 3, 2013 The whole body should lift away from the frame intact, assuming that you find and disconnect all the lines, (fuel, OiL Vacuum) all the cables (speedo, hood release,) linkages (shifter etc, don't forget the clutch/ brake, acc pedal nand the foot pads for the clutch and brake and all the wires that connect the chassis to the body. I would leave the drive train intact with the frame, and lift the body clear. I would also remove the trunk lid and hood. But with the doors closed and side widows down, the body should have enough integrity to be lifted clear. If you feel the need there are 13 bolts that hole the front fender grill sheet metal assembly to the main body. This could be removed as a unit before the lift. Did you ever say why you feel you need to do a frame swap? What does that do if anything to your car's title/registration documetation? Are there any restriction or hoops to jump through concerning that process?? Quote
Andydodge Posted September 3, 2013 Report Posted September 3, 2013 If the rockers and floor are completely rusted out and offer no connecting strength whatsoever then you may have a problem lifting the body and may have to tack weld in crossbraces but if the rockers and floor are basically sound, even with some rust through you should not have any issue lifting the body off and so long as you properly support and protect door edges and other spots that could be locally affected by the lifting process you should be fine...............hotrodders do this type of thing all the time, just remove the front sheetmetal, rear fenders, trunk lid and maybe doors.........just use commonsense................lol..............andyd Quote
Niel Hoback Posted September 3, 2013 Report Posted September 3, 2013 Steering column and gear box must be removed before lifting. Quote
SpecialK Posted September 5, 2013 Author Report Posted September 5, 2013 When I have bought the Plymouth it was not clear how strongly the frame is rusted.I have several places that are rusted through, and the rest also no longer looks trustworthy. In the current state I could not get the vehicle registered in Germany. The alternative would be to weld the frame, but this must be done by a specialist and I have to submit proof of welding for MOT - otherwise no approval.As there was only one place I wanted to weld it myself. This could have worked with the approval anyhow. But now half the frame needs improvement, it is too hot with that.Therefore, it is certainly useful to swap the frame and avoid the anger.You think, I can let installed the doors and the windshield and rear window? I wanted to disconnect the bottom plate first. This is totally messed up. Then it certainly makes sense to tighten the body with struts, or is not necessary? Quote
bbbbbb99 Posted September 5, 2013 Report Posted September 5, 2013 (edited) Is the body rusted too? If it's solid do as was suggested before; #1 Remove the front fenders and hood (not sure about trunk lid) #2 Disconnect all mechanicals, wires, tubing between body and frame and carefully lable where each goes. #3 Unbolt all body mounts. #4 Keep doors and windows closed #6 I would find 4 by 4 wooden dimensional lumber of a good grade and slip it between the body and frame carefully. Do this front and back. These should extend at least a foot beyond the body on each side. #7 Have supports set up in the exact same position next to each of the 4 lift locations so that when you and your three friends lift the wooden lumber can be set on them. They should be high enough that the frame can be rolled out from under the body. #8 Lift it off. Support the center of both "beams" while you prep the new frame. #9 Reverse the procedure to set the body on the new frame. Edited September 5, 2013 by bbbbbb99 Quote
Niel Hoback Posted September 5, 2013 Report Posted September 5, 2013 Don't forget that pesky steering column. Quote
ktmripper Posted September 6, 2013 Report Posted September 6, 2013 Yes, I forgot and tweaked mine..... I dunno if it will work again or not. Some mistakes are more expensive than others. Quote
RattlesnakeDaddy Posted September 7, 2013 Report Posted September 7, 2013 hi, i´m from germany too. living near frankfurt/main. you may have a look here . i documented the last 25 years of my P15 in a short film. at 0:44 you´ll see the body lifting. if you need some rubber parts for rear window, trunk, etc. i can give provide you with an address in germany. it´s way cheaper then ordering in the US. send PM if you have any questons. viel erfolg, thomas Quote
fstfish66 Posted May 26, 2014 Report Posted May 26, 2014 subscribed,,, good luck my german friend Quote
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