ggdad1951 Posted June 30, 2013 Report Posted June 30, 2013 (edited) ok, I've been beating my head around this all morning since 6AM. Since building FEF I've never had a working horn. I decided it was the Sunday to tackle the issue and get one of the "last" 3 things checked off the list. So, follow along and see if you can fill in my brain fart. If I short the horn to the block it works If I short the horn wire at the steering wheel to the pedal starter is works. RESULT: the horn wiring is just fine I measure the resistance from a steering box mounting bolt exposed thread to the tranny (or any other ground under the cab) at 0.3 ohm I measure the resistance from the starter pedal to the mounting screw for the gauge cluster at 0.3 ohm I measure the resistance from the steering wheel nut to the assembly in the steering wheel at 0.3 ohm I measure the resistance from the steering wheel nut to the gauge mounting screw OR the starter pedal at over 14 ohm RESULT: I don't have a good ground somehow WHY am I not getting continuity on the steering column if the box is grounded at one of it's mounting bolts? Should not all the sector gears and such not ground thru the casting of the steering box as the threads on the bolts should have dang good contact on the threads in the casting? Edited June 30, 2013 by ggdad1951 Quote
ggdad1951 Posted June 30, 2013 Author Report Posted June 30, 2013 (edited) ok, took EVERYTHING off and cleaned it all up. Removed a bolt from the steering box and took the frame down to bare metal. The resistance is now about 1 ohm from the steering wheel nut to the frame or any other ground. I get a slight "ungh" when I push the ring but that's it. Any thoughts? I did rebuild the horn and put new gaskets in it. It tested fine when I put it right to a battery or if I direct ground it to the block...is 1 ohm STILL too much resistance? Is there an adjustment screw I should be looking for on the horn? 8+ hours on it and I'm VERY frustrated. Edited June 30, 2013 by ggdad1951 Quote
Solution Don Coatney Posted June 30, 2013 Solution Report Posted June 30, 2013 When you rebuilt the horn was there an adjusting screw near the coil? I hope you get it fixed as there is nothing better than tooting your own horn Quote
ggdad1951 Posted June 30, 2013 Author Report Posted June 30, 2013 yes, there is a straight blade (small) screw w/ what looks like a lock nut on it. Guess I'll go dink around with that to see if that helps. The shop manual is LESS than helpful. Quote
_shel_ny Posted June 30, 2013 Report Posted June 30, 2013 (edited) If the horn works when you short to ground, I do not believe adjustment is required. I could be wrong. Test your ground with a test light instead of an ohm meter. EDIT: I was wrong , but testing for ground is best done with a test light as it shows that current will pass. Edited June 30, 2013 by shel_bizzy_48 Quote
ggdad1951 Posted June 30, 2013 Author Report Posted June 30, 2013 (edited) thanks Don, I KNEW it was there but was convinced since I bench tested it, it was ok, a SMALL adjustment IN on the points screw and "HONK" M*A*S*H style! One more item off the list! 2 left! Edited June 30, 2013 by ggdad1951 Quote
Dave72dt Posted June 30, 2013 Report Posted June 30, 2013 (edited) How about the ground between the column tube and the gearbox? Never mind! Edited June 30, 2013 by Dave72dt Quote
pflaming Posted July 1, 2013 Report Posted July 1, 2013 thy a different ring, maybe you put too much paint on it. Now that is not a rational suggesstion, but maybe the problem is not the ground nor the wire, but the "button", Quote
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