Hush Mat?

[Jeff Balazs]

Hi Guys;

Anybody here have any experience with Hush mat ? I am still exploring the options for insulation on my truck.

 

Not totally sold on Quiet ride products. It just seems to me (and I could be wrong) that one could do better for the amount of money they want. Also I am using John at Pilothouse interiors for my upholstery so I won't be needing the ABS panels.

 

When I looked further into Lizardskin I found out that it really isn't practical to apply it by brush and I definitely do not want to spray at this stage.

 

Thanks, Jeff

[MBF]

I used the Eastwood version I think it was called Dynamat or something similar.  I was very pleased with it.  To reduce expenses, I used it on the roof and firewall.  For the rear of the cab I used a rolled double sided foil insulation that I got at Lowes.  Mike

[chopt50wgn]

I used the Eastwood mat as well. I will say this...........when you cut a piece to fit, make sure that's where you want it to go. The stuff is really sticky and where you put it, it's there.

 I also got some aluminum tape at Home Depot to seal the seams between the tape and then used a wallpaper roller to smooth it all out.

[Jeff Balazs]

Thank you;

So no problem getting it to conform to the cowl and firewall areas?

Do you think it would adhere to areas that I have already gone over with bed liner material ?

 

Thanks, Jeff

[MBF]

As long as the surface is clean I don't thing there would be a problem.  The stuff really sticks to a properly prepped surface.

[Jeff Balazs]

Thanks Mike;

Did you use it on the floor and floor boards too? or something else?

 

I really want to do a first class job on insulating this truck. It is my intention to drive it until I keel over.....so I am not looking to cut corners. Just want to do the best job possible. This is one of those items where it is hard to know which material or system is truly going to work the best......and hold up over time. On the surface the Quiet ride system looks pretty good. Getting pre-cut pieces sure sounds awfully tempting. But I have reservations about the long term viability of the spray adhesive. We have huge and sometimes very rapid swings in the humidity levels here. Going from 70% to under 10% in less than a day is not uncommon.

 

Jeff

[chopt50wgn]

The Eastwood /Hushmat/ Dynamat stuff will stick to a smooth surface. You may get it to stick to a textured surface but it may not stick as well as a smoother surface.

[Jeff Balazs]

Yes I should have thought that out a little better. I have been thinking that I am probably going to have to use some sort of construction adhesive on the areas I have used this product. Nothing like making your own project a little harder. :huh:jeff

[MBF]

I used a foil backed jute that I got on a roll for the floor (under my rubber floor mat) with the foil side towards the floor metal.  I don't want anything permanent attached to the floor that will hold moisture in case it happens to get wet (heater core starts to leak, vent leak, drink spills, etc).  This way I can see what is going on just by picking up the mat and removing it if necessary.   I did the same with my 78 pickup, both 49 Dodges, and the 36 Plymouth and the floors are rock solid in each of them after many years of use.   Mike 

Edited June 19, 2013 by MBFowler

[Jeff Balazs]

Mike;

That makes good sense. I wonder if anyone makes that jute mat with foil on both sides? I have only seen it with the foil on one side and it seems like a two sided product would make for a really nice installation.

 

Jeff

[chopt50wgn]

There is a mat out there that has a dense type air bubble middle. It is foil backed on both sides and can be glued down or just laid  to fit. The jute stuff works well but if it ever does get wet you have to remove it and let it dry out. The foil backed , you just wipe off and put back.

[MBF]

The double foil back plastic stuff is available at Lowe's in rolls.  That is what I used on the rear of my cab and under the seat.  It's cheap and will make quite a difference in the noise level in the cab.  It takes away the tinny echo.  Every little bit that you do insulation wise will make a difference.  You'll hear new noises you never knew you had!  Mike

[Dan Babb]

You can probably sand down where you have the bedliner.  That will help the mat products stick better.  The stuff I got at Lowes is called Peal & Seal.  It's in the roofing section.  Basically the same formulation that dynamat used to use when they started out, but way cheaper.

 

My floors weren't perfectly smooth and it stuck well.  I wouldn't use it on the roof though.  Not sure it would stay up there if you were on a long drive in the summer heat...the stuff isn't light.

 

I also put some strips inside the doors..helped with that tinny sound when you close them.  You don't need to fully cover the surface to get rid of the thin metal sound...a few spaced out strips will do the trick.  I did fully cover my floor though.  Didn't do the firewall though..I will one day if I ever make up a cover to hide it.

[Dave72dt]

I just sprayed Lizardskin on the interior of my current project.  Exterior was just painted and color sanded, buffed.  I masked off the jambs and other interior parts that I didn't want material on and sprayed.  It doesn't spray like paint does.  There is no overspray, just some spatter that can be controlled with a minimum of masking.  Purplish in color, it dries to a dull black, cleans up with water. I got a bit of spatter on one small section of door jamb and scrubbed it off with just a damp rag but it wasn't fully dry yet.  Takes a while to dry, thicker it is, the longer it takes.  Recommended air pressure in the directions is higher than it needs to be.  How effective it is, don't know.  Putting a second coat on tomorrow to get it up to the recommended thickness.

 

before aand after, Lizardskin still drying when pic taken

[Jeff Balazs]

Hi Dave;

Interesting.

 

I just got my project too far along when I came across this stuff to make it practical. I have applied a few coats of Herculiner to the floor pan under the seat and behind it, the back wall of the cab and the inside of the roof. It did really well on dampening the floor areas and the back wall. Not so much on the roof. I am going to try bonding some strips of rubber to the roof and then go over it again. Then one of the foil mat products and a headliner. Right now I am leaning towards fastening the insulating mat directly to the back side of the headliner and wall panels.

 

I haven't tackled the firewall and cowl areas yet. My thoughts right now are to either bond some rubber in spots sort of like the beginning step of Quietride's process then seal it with a few coats of bedliner or get some self adhesive product and just seal up that whole area. As an extra measure I may cover the back of the kicks and firewall upholstery with one of the foil mat products.

 

Jeff

 

Then of course there is the doors themselves and the insides of the door pillars which I think probably act as conduits for wind noise, etc. Maybe some test strips of closed cell foam shaved to fit snug but removable would be the ticket in some of these areas?

[Dave72dt]

Some or most foam products will absorb moisture, something you don't want inside a door.

[buds truck]

I'm with Merle on this one. I got peel and seal from Lowes, gonna do the floors, inside the doors and I am brave (or dumb) enough to try the roof too. I put  U-POL Raptor spray on liner on the underside of the cab.

[Scruffy49]

Styrofoam board in the ceiling. Cut it in narrow strips and it will bend. And it is light, a good (industrial) spray adhesive will hold it in place just fine. Did a 35 Ford coupe with it a couple decades ago, it's still in place. My uncle drives the car all the time.

 

I know you do wood working Jeff, a wooden strip headliner a la CrisCraft kills a lot of heat and noise. My stepson's mid 50s Ford Squire (2 door English wagon that could drive down a municipal sidewalk) was done in western red cedar furring strips, no other insulation, and it cut the noise level by close to 60%.

[Jeff Balazs]

I was not thinking of using the foam in the doors themselves. I thought some strips of rubber like conveyor belt material and then coated with brush on bed liner would work well there. The areas I was thinking of using closed cell foam strips in were the cab door pillars on either side of the windshield. They would not be held in place by adhesive but instead stay in place by being cut a little large and pulled up into the pillar. Not sure if this is really necessary but it would seem to me to be an area where wind noise could enter the cab and be amplified?

 

I have applied several coats of the brush on bed liner to the underside of the cab and the inside of the all the fenders and splash wells.

 

Jeff

[MBF]

Dodge made a huge mistake in the 70's with their larger C series and Bighorn trucks. They used a spray on foam that was supposed to be an insulator and noise barrier.  It actually ended up being more of a sponge that held moisture and caused some serious rust issues.  I'd stay away from any expaning foam or similar material. 

[Jeff Balazs]

I ended up using Hushmat Ultra on my firewall and cowl area. Great stuff to work with. Conforms well to all the irregular surfaces. I even managed to work it up around the cowl vent and defroster ducts. At $200 for the kit I got it is not cheap. But it made a job I was dreading fairly easy and in a way fun. I had plenty so I doubled it up in the area closest to the engine. With this and all the other insulation and sound deadening I have done I feel like this aspect of my build is about as good as it can get.

 

Jeff

[HanksB3B]

So Jeff if you doubled it does that mean it's Hush Hush.?

 

oh goody, let's see pics !

 

Hank 

[Jeff Balazs]

So Jeff if you doubled it does that mean it's Hush Hush.?

 

oh goody, let's see pics !

 

Hank 

Hank....Yes totally ..in fact If I show you I have to silence you.

 

Well it is black and probably wouldn't photograph to well ...... but here is what the interior is looking like right now.

I still have a lot I want to do but I am happy with how it is coming together.

Excuse the last photo taken through dirty glass.

 

Jeff

[Desotodav]

Top job Jeff!

Love the dash also. You just need to get onto Mark and score his spare ash tray and lighter!

Keep up the good work!

[HanksB3B]

You just need to get onto Mark and score his spare ash tray and lighter!

 

Good point ! (especially now that we know he has three)

 

Hank